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[Editor's note: The text of Flinders' journal reproduced here retains his original spelling and punctuation]

[page 1]

Mrs Petrie
4 The Avenue
Blackheath St
8 Crescent Road
Bromley Kent

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[page 2]

Abstract of observations taken upon the [indecipherable word] point of Sydney Cove for ascertaining the rates of the time keepers, and their errors from M.Greenh. time
[Observations not reproduced - see original journal]

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[page 3]

To Lieutenant Murray, commander of the brig Lady Nelson, I gave the following instructions of which he had a memorandum.
  To keep company with the Investigator, if possible, but in case of parting, he was to repair to Herveys Bay, which he was to enter by a passage said to exist between Sandy Cape and Break-sea Spit. In Herveys Bay he was to [anchor] near Sandy Cape and remain one day; when, if he did not meet with the Investigator, he was to repair to Thirsty Sound and remain at the [anchor]age at the N.E. end of Long Island, until our arrival. In case of our getting there before him, and quitting it, he was to look about the landing place for a pile of stones, in which would be a bottle and a letter for his further instructions.
[missing text]ay likewise what I intended [missing text] the way to Thirsty Sound; [missing text] attend to this remark in case [missing text] to make the best of his way.
 

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[page 4]

1802 July. From Port Jackson, to the northward
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Transactions and remarks P.M. as per log book No.l -
                    [Thursday] - 22d. A.M.

Fresh breezes and cloudy weather. Every person being on board belonging to the ship, as also the pilot: at 6h.1/2 we weighed, and steered to go out of the harbour, having the colonial brig Lady Nelson in company. When near the entrance lowered down the boat, brought to, landed the pilot and hoisted up the boat.
   At 8, passed from between the heads, and at nine, took our departure from the entrance of Port Jackson, bearing SWbW. 6 miles.
Stowed the anchors, and cleaned below. A long swell setting after us. Served slops to the ships company. At noon, fresh breezes and fine weather. Entrance into Broken Bay S55W 8 or 9 miles. A square topped hill N42W. Lady Nelson in company astern.

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[page 5]

1802 July [Friday] 23 H.M.S. Investigator [Along the east coast of New Holland]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Mod. breezes & fine wr. At sunset extr. of the land NE to SSW; soon after, the Coal Island at the entrance into Hunters R. bore NbW 1/2W. 5 m. Spoke the L. Nelson and desired her to go ahead and steer N.E.b.E during the night. Shewed a light occasonally, answering hers.
At 10, land abt. Pt. Stephens NNW 4 or 5 miles.
Running under the topsails, the L. Nelson being on the starb. beam At daylight, the brig not in sight Land visible on the weather quarter At 6h.3/4, brought to for the brig; Double reefed the F. and mz. Top sails. At 8, bore away for the land in company with the brig. - Fresh breezes & hazy.
Dble. reefed the M top-sails. Roused up the small bower cable, to secure it better in the tier. At noon, the Brothers N52 to 38W. 5 or 6 leagues. C. Hawke S60W. Many smokes upon the land.
Fresh breezes & hazy
L. Nelson in company.

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[page 6]

[Saturday] - 24th. [H.M.S. Investigator] Along the east coast of N. Holland
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Fresh breezes and fine weather with haze
Slanting in for the land, with the L. Nelson following us. At 4, So.most Brother S.46º.W. and a low steep point also, the latter dist. 4 miles. At 5h.30' came up with a point, consisting of irregular small hummocks: it bore N70º. to 32º.W. distant one mile. Wore offshore and desired the L. Nelson to keep near us during the night.
   Strong breezes and squally. Under the top-sails standing back along the shore. Lost sight of the L. Nelson
   At 12, the No.most Brother, West. Wore ship and 3rd. reefed the topsails. Shewed lights and fired a gun. Lost a deep-sea lead and 30 fms.of line. On the ship lying in for the land, brought to. At 21/2, filled again At 6, wore ship, the point from which we tacked being dist. 3 miles. Made sail, and at 7, tacked in for the land. At 8, kept along shore: the brig not in sight. Passed near several projecting heads, between which are sandy beaches and low land. At 9h.55', a hummock [indecipherable words] rocky projection S44W. 11/4 mile [indecipherable word]
Noon, fresh breezes & fine, with haze. No.most brother S14W. nearest land, 2nd. humky. cape N50ºW 2 miles. A bight in the land N.39.W. Extreme N.14ºW.

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[page 7]

1802 July [Saturday] - 24 continued. Additional remarks P.M.
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The three brothers are irregular hills being the extremity of a body of high land from the interior part: they lie from l1/2 to 5 miles from the shore. They seem to be well covered with wood, as does most of the higher land in their neighbourhood.
   The projection, off which we wore ship at dusk, is somewhat irregularly formed. At its northern part is a rocky lump of a sugar-loaf shape, and beyond it the shore falls back and seems to be low. The water seems to be shoal in this bight, and there are some rocks above water in the southern part of it. The coast for some distance to the northward of the three Brothers having been passed by captain Cook in the night, I wished to examine it closely; and for that reason we hauled to the wind, instead of standing on all night.
  The land along which we steered in the ni
  The Lady Nelson not being in sight after 10 o'clock excited some surprise, since from the shifts of wind in our favour we kept our situation own under the top sails only; but we concluded that she would be found somewhere in the neighbourhood of the point from which we hauled off in the evening.

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[page 8]

[1802 July Saturday - 24 continued]. Additional remarks A.M.]
 [Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

On coming in with the same point which we had left at dusk on the preceding evening, I steered along the shore in prosecution of the survey of the part passed by capt. Cook in the night; it being rather more probable that the L. Nelson was to the northward than in the opposite direction.
  This part of the coast is generally a low sandy shore, but rocky projections break its uniformity every 4 or 5 miles. The land rises very soon quickly, from the waterside to hills of moderate height, which are well covered with wood, and give the country a pleasant appearance. The rocky projections being hilly but distinct from the hills inland, they generally make like islands on first being seen.
  The second hummocky cape which was the nearest land at noon, proves to be Smoky Cape, and answers captain Cooks description exactly. Its latitude appears to be 30º.561/2S. The shore falls back on each side of it, and on the north side forms a large bight. Two rocks lie abt. 1/2 mile off the pitch of the cape, and another on the south side of it.

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[page 9]

1802 July [Sunday] - 25th. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast - Smoky Cape and Shoal Bay] [Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Fresh breezes and fine wr. with much haze and smoke over the land. At 3, a rocky, broken point S.45ºW. 11/2m. Smoky Cape S.20.E. -
At 5, the shore dist. 21/2 miles, a projection with a rock off it. Furthest extreme N.11ºE. - Steered off for the Solitary Isles, one of which was soon after seen. Took in T.Gt. sails and fore sail and 3rd. reefed the top-sails
Fresh breezes and cloudy with drizzling rain Clewed the top-sails down on the cap At 3, brought to: ships head towards the land, judging ourselves near abreast of Shoal Bay
At 6h.20', filled and stretched in for the land, which was at some distance At 91/2 kept away along the shore, the So. head of Shoal Bay S29W. 6 or 8 miles
At 10h., passed some dangerous breakers lying 21/2 miles off shore; and at 10h.1/2, passed a second patch, similar to it
Mustered ships company & saw them clean.
Noon, light breezes & hazy: spitting rain at times. Nearest shore WNW. 3 miles. No. extreme N.12ºE. -

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[page 10]

[1802 July Sunday - 25th. H.M.S. Investigator]
along the east coast - Smoky Cape and Shoal Bay
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

From Smoky Cape the land hollows back to the N.W. a little and then resumes its northerly direction. At intervals there are some high hills near the shore, and inland is a high ridge of mountains, which extends from abreast of our situation at 5h. towards the Solitary Isles. These mountains are irregular and rugged. On approaching the islands we come to the part seen in the day by C. C. [Captain Cook] as well as the Norfolk, which last saw it as far as Shoal Bay in lat. 29º.26'So.
            
In the morning we came in with Shoal Bay, as I expected. The entrance of the bay is not distinguishable at the distance of even a few miles, but I knew it by a peaked hummock to the southward, and by the south head which is higher than the neighbouring parts of the shore. - Nothing remarkable presented itself during the mornings run except the two patches of dangerous breakers, which lie abt. 21/2 miles off the shore. - There are some hills of moderate elevation a few miles from the water, but the shore is mostly sandy, and rather low: vegetation does not seem to be luxuriant.

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[page 11]

1802 July [Monday] 26th. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast - Cape Byron and Pt. Lookout]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Mod. breezes and fine wr. with haze
At 2, Abreast of some small projecting heads, on each side of which is a small open bay: Cape Byron bearing N.1°.W. At 5, Cape Byron W5ºS. about 4 miles Extremes S7ºW. and N.28º.W. Continued our course in order to pass round the reef off Pt. Danger. At 11, hauled more towards the land, judging ourselves past the reef.
Tble. weather with rain.
At daylight, hauled more up towds. the land, which bore W.N.W. 6 or 8 leags.
At 8, Mt. Warning S.5º.W. or 15ºW over the land. At 10, Point Lookout S 57°W 4 miles A vessel in sight to the EN.E shortened sail, supposing it to be the L. Nelson
At noon, Cape Moreton N.28º.W. abt. 6 leags. Point Lookout S.1º.E. 3 leagues
Light breezes and fine, with haze

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[page 12]

[1802 July Monday 26th. H.M.S. Investigator] along the east coast - Cape Byron and Pt. Lookout
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The projecting heads near us at 2 o'clock have a tolerably fertile appearance. In the bight south of them, was a smoke close to the water side. The bight to the northward may probably afford shelter from winds at south. C. Byron makes like an island, the land immediately behind it being low, but it some rises towards that body of mountains at the top of which is Mt. Warning. - C.C. [Captain Cook] having passed this cape and as far as Point Lookout in the day time, I steered on all night towards C. Moreton; for the space from the point to the last cape had been previously examined in the Norfolk. - The hills about Mt. Warning are well covered with wood, and the country has a tolerable appearance even near the shore; but from hence to the northward, sand prevails more or less
   When Mt. Warning was seen it could not be less than twenty leagues distant and may certainly be seen some leagues further. - In the Norfolk sloop I laid down Pt. Lookout 201/2' to the south of capt. Cooks situation of it, and the observations this day at noon confirm the propriety of it. Our longitude agrees much nearer with his

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[page 13]

1802 July [Tuesday] - 27th. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast - Cape Moreton to Wide Bay]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Light breezes and fine, with haze. Finding the strange sail was a ship, made sail. At 4, saw breakers, lying about 5 miles to the NNE from C. Moreton. Hauled out to pass to the eastward of them At dusk, took in lst. reefs. - C. Moreton S.50º.W. The breakers out of sight, abaft the larbd. beam, having drifted past them, apparently, faster than by log. Hauled round towards the coast again with all plain sails set.
Much lightening in the south
Rove a new tiller rope, the old being carried away. - In T.Gt. sails & stay sails. At 3h.1/4, shortened sail to the topsails and brought to with the ships head to the southward. - At 6, bore away and made sail towards the land. Many hummocky peaks upon the land
Double reefed the top-sails. - At 9h.1/2 hauled round Doub. I. Point. Saw natives in the bight round the north part. - A rock lies N10E 2 miles from the point, wh. we left to the right. - At 10h.1/2, kept away to clear some shoals which lie off the mouth of an opening in Wide Bay. Much shoal water also, as far as three miles off the land. At noon, the point S16º.E. No. extreme N4W. Hazy weather.

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[page 14]

[1802 July Tuesday - 27th. H.M.S. Investigator] along the east coast - Cape Moreton to Wide Bay
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The strange sail I suppose to be one of the two whalers, which are fishing off this part of the coast. -
When going into Glass-house Bay in the Norfolk, I had not seen the reef which lies off Cape Moreton from its being nearly dark, and from hauling being so close to in round the cape. It This reef is the more dangerous from being at that distance from the cape, at wh. any vessel would judge herself to be in safety: it is fortunate for the Investigator that we did not pass Cape Moreton in the night. -
The neighbourhood of Double Island Point and Wide Bay, appearing to have been indistinctly seen by C.C. [Captain Cook] we brought to in the night that we might not pass this part without examination. The point is a steep head at the end of a neck of land which runs 11/2 mile from the main. The bight on the north side seems to afford shelter from the S.E.ly. winds as far as SE. - The opening in Wide Bay, I judge to be a large shoal place, but there seems to be a passage into it on the north side of the shoals for these seem to lie directly off the mouth.+ This neighbourhood seems to be well inhabited from the numbers of smokes, and the natives seen near the Double Island point. Numberless blubbers of a blueish colour fill the water, off the opening At Noon, offshore 5 miles

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[page 15]

1802 July [Tuesday] - 27th. continued Additional Remarks on [Double-island Point, and Wide Bay]

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[page 16]

[1802 July [Tuesday] - 27th. continued Additional Remarks on] Double-island Point, and Wide Bay

that the Lady Nelson was not with us, since she might have worked up into it, and we should have gained all the intelligence concerning the opening which was requisite to its being made useful, if a good passage into it exists at all. - Had it not been that I expected to join the brig in Herveys Bay, which the delay of a day might have prevented, I should have endeavoured to get into the opening with the ship; but to have her assistance in the way to the Bay of Inlets was a more material object to me than the examination of an opening which makes so little promise of being accessible, as this in Wide Bay. - From appearances, I judge the opening to lead into a shoal bay, probably of considerable size, but which may be probably is accessible only to small vessels. The number of natives rather implies it to be shoal, since in such places they gain much subsistence of that required from the greater quantity of fish of that kind which frequent shallow banks and shallow places, where also they are more easily taken than in deep water.

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[page 17]

1802 July [Wednesday] - 28th. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast. Indian Head and Sandy Cape]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Mod. breezes & fine weather, but hazy. Steered along the direction of the shore at the distance of 2 to 4 miles At sunset, the extremes of the land through the haze N 1/2E to SSW.
Many fires all along the shore
At 10, hauled to the wind towards the land; and at 12, tacked off, the fires upon the shore dist. abt. 4 miles
Mod. breezes and fine weather
At 3h., tacked in shore, and at 4h.1/2, off again, finding ourselves very near it.
At day light, the land about Indian Head dist 11/2 miles, made sail and to steered along the shore for Sandy Cape
Saw many natives upon the shore, said to be waving to us.
At ll, being near Sandy Cape, lowered down the cutter and sent her the master to sound in a small channel, through the breakers, Followed her, but finding there was not 4fms. in it, tacked in 3 fms. stretched out, called the boat on board, and brot. to for her. Noon Sandy Cape S56°W. 2 miles. Indian Hd.S. 20.E. Light breezes and fine wr.

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[page 18]

[1802 July [Wednesday] - 28th. H.M.S. Investigator]
along the east coast. Indian Head and Sandy Cape
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The shore along which we steered this afternoon is of a moderate height, but very sandy, the patches of bare sand being large and frequent; but did not observe any thing to indicate the shifting of the sands, as mentioned in Hawkesworth There were smokes upon every part near the shore, the country seeming to be on fire; and at night the fires were useful in shewing us our situation.
   Indian Head can scarcely be found, there being only two small rocky projections in that situation
   From Sandy Cape, the breakers and shoals lie about 2 miles out when there is a break in them, which I expected was a good passage, as one was said to exist there and to have been sailed through by the Eliza, whaler; but the most water in the middle of it was 18 feet, so that it is impassable for a ship. However I yet hope to find the passage, supposing it may be a little further from the cape.

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[page 19]

1802 July [Thursday] - 29th. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast - Break-sea Spit]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Mod. & fine wr. with haze. At 1, bore away and made sail close along the eastern side of Break-sea Spit, altering the course occasionally. At 3, sent the master away again to sound in what appeared to be wide passage through the breakers. -
Saw two sperm whales going to the No. -
There being little wind and that foul, at 5, dropped the kedge and lowered down the sails. Found a tide coming out of the supposed passage. - Saw a strange sail near Indian Head, supposed to be the L. Nelson. At 6, the boat returned, reporting that there was not more than 14 feet through the passage. -
At 3h.1/2, on the winds shifting, weighed the stream and hauled upon a wind to the southward in order to join the strange vessel; but seeing nothing of her, at 7h. tacked and made sail for the end of Break-sea Spit. At 9h.1/2, saw the breakers.
Mustered the ships company.
Bore away & hauled up occasionally keeping the line of the spit, at a little distance. Mod. breezes & fine weather
Noon, Sandy Cape S14°. to 2°.E. End of the spit WNW. 2 or 3 miles

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[page 20]

[1802 July [Thursday] - 29th. H.M.S. Investigator]
along the east coast - Break-sea Spit.
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

In running along the spit, we saw that there were many small winding passages amongst the breakers. The first examined by the master was narrow, but seemed to lead into the bay with from 2 to 3 fms., the spit not being very broad in that part. The second channel was much wider larger, being abt. 11/2 mile wide, but it does not carry more than 14 feet completely through. The breakers in this part seem to about 31/2 miles broad, and are likewise intersected with small shallow passage. From former observation,
the *spit appears to be much more connected towards its extremity than near Sandy Cape. On the return of the boat I gave up all hope of finding any passage through the spit. -
    I felt some disappointment in not seeing the brig in the morning, since she now had had sufficient time to have arrived at this rendezvous.-
    About 10 o'clock we came in with the same part of the spit near which we had [anchor]ed; and then continued our course close to it*. I think it may be safely said that there is no passage through any part of the spit which is fit for a ship. There were no breakers towards this end of the spit, but the shoal water was plainly distinguishable from the mast head.- The spit may be passed over in 24°.24'So. its length from the Cape being 18 miles only.

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[page 21]

1802 July [Friday] - 30th. H.M.S.Investigator [along the east coast Herveys Bay]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

At 40' past noon, passed over the tail of Break-sea Spit, Sandy Cape bearing S181/2°E, when the water deepened suddenly. At 2, it shoaled again upon a bank; tacked soon after, and in standing back, found but 5 fms. upon the same bank, as we suppose. At 5h.30', tacked from the spit, seeing a rippling ahead, and the water getting shoaler, Sandy Cape bearing S.34°.E.
At 8h., came to in 20 fms. with a kedge [anchor], there being very little wind
At 12h., weighed, on breeze getting up, and stretched towards Sandy Cape. At 2, tack the water getting shoaler and the wind heading
At 6, tacked the ship towards Sandy Cape, which was seen from the mast head bearing E.S.E.
Light breezes and hazy weather
Caught 2 porpoises, by harpooning Saw a vessel bearing E.b.S. without side of the reef near Sandy Cape; supposed to be the Lady Nelson.
Noon, light airs and fine. Sandy Cape, the N.E. extreme S.69°.E. Large sandy patch S.54°E. -

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[page 22]

[1802 July Friday - 30th. H.M.S.Investigator]
along the east coast Herveys Bay
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The bank which lies WNW. from the end of the spit did not come within the notice of C.C. [Captain Cook] or of the Norfolk. I judge it to be a continuation of the spit, which curves round to the westward. The water was not at all discoloured upon it, as it is on the shoal water of the spit. -
    Many birds of the pelican species have frequented the ship during the last few days. One was caught in the rigging, and appears to be the kind of bird which C.C. [Captain Cook] calls a boobys; though it is a somewhat different in colour to what I have heard so called bird to the bird which I have heard so called, in Torres Strait; the difference seeming to consist principally in the colour.

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[page 23]

1802 July [Saturday] 31st. H.M.S. Investigator [in Herveys Bay]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Light breezes & fine weather with haze.
Lowered down the cutter and sent her ahead to sound over a bank; afterwards sent her to the Lady Nelson, whom we saw working through the narrow passage near Sandy Cape. At 4, came to with the best bower in 9 fms. sandy bottom, the N.E.extreme of Sandy Cape E.3°.S. distant about 4 miles. The L. Nelson, having got through the spit was working up to [anchor] near us. Sent the whale boat on shore to sound the disposition of the natives whom we saw in numbers upon the shore, they did not, however, come down to the boat or give the naturalists any molestation
A.M. Fresh breezes and fine weather
At 3h.45' the half cable on the best bower parted; but the small bower being let go very soon, brought the ship up. Unstowed the spare [anchor], having the best bower bent to it -
    At 7, the L. Nelson got under weigh to cover the landing party, and immediately the Commander and several gentlemen left the ship in the whale boat.
   Sent the master to creep for the parted cable, which was got within the hawser, but slipped through all about noon on a squall coming on - Fresh breezes and fine weather.

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[page 24]

[1802 July [Saturday] - 31st.H.M.S. Investigator]
in Herveys Bay
 [Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The bank over which we passed in 31/4 fms. seems to run parallel to the spit, and probably is a part of the same upon which we had 10 and 5 fms. yesterday P.M. The deep channel between these seems to be of moderate breadth
     In order to give our botanists an opportunity of examining the productions of Sandy Cape, I determined to remain at an [anchor] here one day; and sent a boat on shore this evening to make a commencement in our acquaintance with the natives, in order to save time
    By the master, (whom I sent to assist the L. Nelson through the passage, though he was too late) I desired Mr. Murray to [anchor] near us and to come on board, that I might learn the cause of our seperation and to prevent the like in the future. In the evening he came, and it appeared that he had laid to off shore from Midnight to nine A.M. of the 24th. instead of tacking at midnight as we had done the wind being a perfect gale to them in the brig. From thence he had kept at a considerable distance from the shore to this place and had met with southerly currents setting to the southward; whereas we had met with them in a contrary direction, being close in with the shore, generally.

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[page 25]

1802 July [Saturday] 31st. in continuation - Additional re[marks upon Sandy Cape]

The Lady Nelson having [anchor]ed within a quarter of a mile of the beach in the morning, we landed abreast of her; and a boat from the brig came also and landed people to cut wood for fuel. We divided into three parties, besides those left in the boats. That with the naturalist consisted of 6 persons, who walked along the shore towards the upper part of the bay; - the second was Lt. Murrays wood-cutting party; and the party with me consisted of six, including the native, Bongaree. We walked to the N.E.ern part of the cape, near which several natives stopped and waved us to go back, having branches of trees in their hands. Through the medium of our native, who went to them singly, unarmed, and naked, a communication was brought on, and after receiving some presents and invitations twenty of them followed us to the boats. There being a large slice of porpoise blubber which had been put into the boat for this purpose, it was cut up and distributed amongst them, and they eat it with apparent satisfaction. Two natives from amongst our party went forward to meet the naturalist who returned soon after bringing some of the scoop nets which the natives use to catch fish. At 2h.1/2 P.M. we left the shore and embarked on board the Lady Nelson
   The natives of Sandy Cape much resemble in their personal appearance those of Port Jackson, but taken generally they seem to be more fles[hy]

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[page 26]

[1802 July [Sat.] 31st. in continuation re]marks upon Sandy Cape

which is most probably owing to the greater quantity of food, which, by means of their nets, they are able to procure. I observed, that upon the knuckle bone of the wrist of most, if not all, of them, there was a swelling, the skin of which was as hard as on the inside of the hand. If we understood them, this arose from the constant use of the nets, the stretcher of which came in contact with this part in throwing it. Our native could not understand any word of their language, certainly; nor did they seem to know the use of his throwing stick; for on one of them being asked to use it, he threw the stick and spear away together but better than one of us would have done in a not very awkward manner. The kind of pandanus which I had before found in Shoal Bay and Glass-house Bay, grows in abundance upon Sandy Cape; and a few other trees of different kinds are scattered about amongst the bushes, notwithstanding the extreme sandiness of the soil: the wood is large enough for fire wood. - We found fresh water in a [indecipherable word] pool near the shore, and as a ship may lie within 1/2 or 3/4 of a mile, both wood and water may be procured, but I doubt whether the former latter article would not fail in the summer months.- We saw nothing like a canoe; but they natives [The word 'natives' has been added in pencil] have some means of passing over the water to a small distance, since in 1799 I found the Curlew Islet, in the head of the Bay had been visited.

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[page 27]

1802 Aug. [Sunday] - 1st. 1802. HMS Investigator [along the east coast: Herveys Bay]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Fresh breezes and cloudy weather. Weighed the small bower, and warped up to the buoy of the best bower; but the rope breaking dropped the small bower again, got hold of the broken cable and weighed the [anchor]. Unbent the best bower from the spare [anchor] and bent it to the [anchor] recovered. Stowed the spare anchor. At 3, the L. Nelson came and [anchor]d near us bringing our boat and officers from the shore.
   A.M. Moderate breezes and fine wr.
At 7h.45', after washing and clearing the decks, weighed and made sail upon a wind for the west side of Herveys Bay; the Lady Nelson following us.
Handed T.Gt. sails to keep company.
Read the articles of war to the ships company, mustered them and saw them clean
Noon, fresh breezes & fine weather with haze. The land about Sandy Cape bearing east. High land seen ahead, indistinctly. - The L.Nelson a small distance astern.

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[page 28]

[1802 Aug.[Sunday] - 1st. H.M.S.Investigator]
along the east coast: Herveys Bay
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The flood tide was making at 2h.1/2, when we embarked on board the brig, which is one hour after the moon had passed over the meridian; and it then seemed to be low water by the shore; from which it should be high water 5 hours before the moon comes to passes over the meridian and the rise of tide seems to be 6 or 7 feet.

I steered over to the west side of the bay, with the intention of coming in with the sloping hummock, and to continue the survey from thence to Keppel Bay; for I had before explored round Herveys Bay, from Sandy Cape to the hummock; the wind, however, would not did not seem to permit us to fetch that part of the land, nor could the hummock be seen at noon.

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[page 29]

1802 Aug.[Monday] - 2nd. H.M.S.Investigator [along the east coast. Herveys B. towards Bustard B.]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Mod. breezes and fine wr. with haze Set T.Gt. sails and staysails. - Lost a hand lead and line
On the wind coming round, steered more along in for the shore; but coming into shoal water, hauled round off and at 51/2, came to [anchor] with the small bower, on a bottom of sand and mud; and the L. Nelson [anchor]ed near us. The Sloping hummock S.22°.E. off shore abt. 5 miles where is the entrance of a small river. Veered to 1/2 a cable and furled sails
Mod. breezes and cloudy weather
At 6h.36', having weighed, made sail along the coast; the L. Nelson being ahead.
Spoke the brig and desired her to keep upon our bow nearest to the shore Made and shortened sail occasionally At 9, the land distant abt. 4 miles. Noon, Light breezes and fine, with haze. Furthest land, a sloping point N40°W. Nearest shore S60W. 3 miles Made the signal to the brig to alter course as she saw us do

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[page 30]

[1802 Aug. Monday] - 2nd. H.M.S.Investigator] along the east coast. Herveys B. towards Bustard B.
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

About 2 o'clock, the sloping hummock was in sight through the haze, and the wind backing round allowed us to fetch sufficiently near to the shore to continue the survey from where it was quitted by the Norfolk. Very soon after passing the hummock, the water shoals so much that there is no coming nearer to the shore than about 5 miles, and some of the sands are dry. The shoals are perhaps occasioned by some small, shallow inlets drains of water about this part which bring the sand down with them, but there does not seem to be any opening of consequence, or which is accessible to ships. - In the Norfolk, I made the width of the bay, much less than it is in C.C's, + [Captain Cook's] chart. By the time keepers now, the distance from the center of Sandy C. to sloping hummock is 46 miles: In C.C.s [Captain Cook's] chart it is 62 miles. - The shore near the sloping hummock is low and broken, with many shoals off it: the land is covered wth. small wood. As we advanced, the shore seems to be more woody; and hills rise a few miles inland, and continue in an irregular chain to the furthest extreme, which I suppose to be near Bustard Bay.

+always write captain Cook instead of C.C. [This note has been added in pencil]

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[page 31]

1802 Aug. [Tuesday] - 3rd. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast - Bustard Bay
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Moderate trade with fine weather. Lost a hand lead, from the line breaking
At 4h.1/2, seeing we could not get round the No. head of Bustard Bay before dark, made the signal to the brig, and hauled up for the bay. At 5h.10'[anchor]ed in 41/2 fms. sandy bottom: the points of the bay bearing E11°S11/2 m. and N.W.-
Light air and hazy weather
At 6h.20' weighed and made sail to the northward, the Lady Nelson being in company ahead
Finding that we drifted toward some rocks which lie out from the north head of Bustard Bay, and having no wind, sent the cutter to sound between the rocks, where she found 14 fms upon which we towed to pass between them. Noon. No. head S77W.21/2 miles. South head S.42.E 3 leagues.

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[page 32]

[1802 Aug. Tuesday - 3rd. H.M.S. Investigator] along the east coast. - Bustard Bay
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The south point of Bustard Bay is rocky, and upon it is a roundish hummock. Until within a few miles of the bay 3 o'clock, the shore continued to be low and nearly straight, but it then becames higher and much formed indenteds, but not deeply. - The spit from the west side of the bay, upon which the sea broke, appeared to seen from be connected with the south point until we were very near it
Natives were seen upon the south point of the bay, and the wood there was on shore fire to a considerable extent.
   The latitude of the south point or of captain Cooks [anchor]age which are the same, he calls 24°.4', but I should call it 24°8' In the latitude of the north point we agree much nearer: it is in 24°.00' according to this days observation. From the greater increased distance between the points, the bay is extended beyond its limits in C.Cs + Captain Cook's [This note has been added in pencil] chart, and is indeed much unlike its in form there; his expression, however of its being a large open bay, applies exceedingly well to it. In the longitude of the north point we differ 10', our time-keepers giving it in 151º.47' Et. - This difference seems to have been accumulating since we left Double-island Point, for at that place the difference was only 2', which our longitude was to the east, as it had been all along the coast before the watch A1736, gives the same, nearly.

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[page 33]

1802 Aug. [Wednesday] - 4th. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast. - off Bustard Bay
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Cabins. Soon after noon, a breeze sprung up; tacked from the rocks, and towed with two boats to seaward until the wind steadied. At 3, tacked, but finding we could not weather all, tacked off again, hoisted in the boats, and made signal to tack again at 8 o'clock. At 5h.30', the No. head of Bustard Bay S69°.W. Round hill S4º.E. At 8, bore down to the L. Nelson, tacked and spoke her.
Made and shortened sail occasionally to keep the L. Nelson in close company; and tacked ship every two hours
Winds light and variable, and the weather cloudy.
At 6, tacked towards the land, which was seen to the S.W.ward at a considerable distance: the brig 1 mile to the N.W. Set staysails.
People of the watch employed working up junk
At noon, light breezes & fine weather
The north head of Bustard bay S25º to 19º E, distant 4 leagues. A hill near the shore W.9º.S. Land seen indistinctly as far as W.N.W.

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[page 34]

[1802 Aug. Wednesday - 4th. H.M.S. Investigator] along the east coast. - off Bustard Bay
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The rocks which lie off the inner part of the north head of Bustard Bay, do not seem to form a continued reef. The outer rock is about 21/2 miles from the land, and there is another, above water also, at times, about half the distance to it -
The land immediately to the westward of Bustard Bay is rather high, but does not form any regular chain of hills: it may be called hummocky land.
This hummocky kind of land appears to continue further westward, in irregular short ridges of hills. Our distance off shore was too great for us to observe much of the fertility of the country, but the wood upon it did not appear to be large either on either side of the Bay, except at some distance to the eastward.

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[page 35]

1802 Aug. [Thursday] 5th. H.M.S.Investigator [along the east coast. Off No.1, port]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Hazy weather. Saw a small island from the mast head bearing N.b.W, from 4 to 8 leagues dist., On a breeze springing up at 2, steered in for the furthest land in sight from Bustard Bay. At 5h.45', [anchor]ed in 10 fms. with small bower, and the brig [anchor]ed near us an hour afterwards. North head of Bustard Bay S.69E. and northern land in sight N.58°.W. Nearest land S.74°.W. dist. 2 leagues, south of which is a small bight in the coast. - Light breezes and fine wr. with haze.
Thick, hazy weather.
At 6h.15', having weighed, made sail to the N.W.ward, along the coast, with the L. Nelson in company.
Light breezes and fine wr. with haze
At 9, saw a small opening from which the water had some appearance of communicating with the small bight. Steered in for the opening on seeing the water over the low land, and desired the Lady Nelson to look out for [anchor]age At 11, came to in the entrance in 41/2 fms. and hoisted out the boats. Et. point of entrance on with the line of the shore S42E. 2 bluffs on the opposite side N.39°.W. Rocky island in the entrance S22W. 11/2 miles

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[page 36]

1802 Aug. [Thursday] 5th. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast. Off No.1, port
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

There is no mention made of any island in the direction of this seen at noon, in + C.C.s [Captain Cook] chart: but from its distance we can say nothing of what it is.
   The shore is rather low past our evenings [anchor]age, but at a few miles inland the same irregular hills are seen as before. The small bight did not promise any inlet worth examination, and therefore we steered along the coast towards Keppel Bay; but on seeing the opening 10 miles to the northward, and some appearance of communication I thought it proper to make some examination of it.
Many natives and some canoes were seen upon the west shore, to which a large party with the naturalist went, a little before 12 o'clock; and I prepared to make an expedition up the port after taking the meridional observation and bringing up the rough chart and log to this noon.

+ captain Cooks, always to be written instead of C.C's. [This note has been added in pencil]

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[page 37]

1802 Aug. [Friday] - 6 th. H.M.S. Investigator in No.1 [port, of the east coast]

On my leaving the ship in the whale boat, the L. Nelson got under weigh also, but on account of the strength of the tide which was running out she came to,, short of the rocky islet that lies in the entrance. From this islet I took angles, and then steered over to the west shore to a hill, called Hill View; from the top of which I saw, that the bight near our last nights [anchor]age communicated with this port No1, by a more considerable entrance than this northern one. The port was seen also from this hill, to extend considerably to the westward, branching into several small arms and forming containing several woody islands, which induced me to form a plan for its examination. On returning we sounded in the most considerable passage towards the vessels, lying which lies [The strike-through and last two words have been added in pencil] on the east side of the rocky islet, but found the bottom too shoal and irregular to admit the brig going up it, although she draws but six feet of water; I therefore desired Lt. Murray to weigh, and go round to the southern entrance by sea, and to examine and sound in it in the morning, during the time that I should be examining towards the head of the port.] We found the recent remains of a large turtle upon the rocky islet.
   The naturalist and his party returned on board at the same time that I did. They had met with natives, who had thrown stones at them, but retreated upon some

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[page 38]

[1802 Aug. Friday - 6th. H.M.S. Investigator in No.1] port, of the east coast

musquets being fired over their heads. Parts of turtle were hanging upon a tree near the natives; and they use the same kind of scoop net as in Herveys Bay. These people have canoes of bark, not less than 7 being seen.-
[A.M. The Lady Nelson having left this entrance into No.1 port to go round to the southern one, on the preceding evening, I left the ship at 7 oclock with the intention of making a general examination of the port to its head, as far as two days would enable me to do it. It being low water, I had a view of the shoals from the Rrocky Iislet, which appeared to be very extensive, occupying the greater part, if not the whole space to near the southern entrance. With some difficulty we made nearly a straight course for a low point on the southern shore, which I call South-trees Point]. After bringing a small peak upon the neighbouring western hills to the southward of the 1st. island, we carried from 23/4, to 7 fathoms and thence to 3, to within 3/4 of a mile of the point, and when close to the point it had deepened again to 6 fathoms. From South-trees Point [From which [The last two words and bracket have been added in pencil] the south head of Facing Island bore 108º.15', distant about 4 miles, which and constitutes the southern and principal entrance into the port. Extensive shoals appeared to lie off the shore to the eastward of the point as far as the eye could rea[indecipherable word]

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[page 39]

1802 Aug [Friday] 6th.continued. H.M. sloop Investigator [Boat excursion up No.1 port, of the east coast]

On leaving South-trees Point to steer upwards for the 5th. island, having which has two small hummocks upon its south end, we had 8 fms. immediately on shoving off from the point,] the opening into a small inlet on the south shore being open. We carried a considerable but decreasing depth, until the 1st. island, rocky south end, came on with Rocky I. in the northern entrance when we had but three fms. being about an equal distance, or one mile, from the south shore, and the first island; but on hauling more to the southward the water deepened, and near the 5th. island south end, we had 7 fms. and 10 close to the rocks.
   Until this time At noon we had seen nothing of the brig, the wind having been too light for her to get into the entrance, but before we left the 5th. island she was seen steering directly into the port: this was about noon -

[Saturday] - 7th. After taking the necessary bearings, we steered in the afternoon for the furthest visible point of the northern shore, about 2 miles distance. In this run we had from 10 to 5, irregularly; being deepest near the southern points of the land; sufficiently so, apparently, for a ship to make fast to the rocks and trees. The small islet that lies one mile to the southward of this point is the 8th. counted besides Rocky Islet; and above this I counted on to the 11th.

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[page 40]

[1802 Aug. Saturday 7th. continued. H.M. sloop Investigator] Boat excursion up No.1, port, of the east coast

11th., and the breadth of the port or river being about 3 miles from this point to the westward, had not diminished in breadth. After [indecipherable word]] passing over the deep water in the neighbourhood of this point, we carried tolerably regular soundings from 6 to 4 fms. past the three upper islets, having passed very close to the 9th. or southernmost of them. On the 11th. islet, we attempted to land for the night, it being sunset, but we found the mud too soft for our purpose, and therefore steered over to the western shore keeping upwards, the river extending now in a north-westerly direction. Before it was quite dark, we had landed.] and pitched our tent - [By making a mark upon the boat hook, the tide appeared to rise 4 feet, and it was low water by the shore at 7 in the morning. The breadth of the river at this sleeping place was about 11/2 mile, and the greatest depth of water appeared to be 6 fms. at low water. On the eastern shore there appeared to be an was a small arm extending that way which I reserved to be looked at on returning. [After sailing about 5 miles further up I found 3 fms. to be the deepest water, and the river was here divided into two arms, the one continuing about N.W.b. N. the other running to the westward, but the principal parts of both occupied by shoal water. The top of some small reddish

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[page 41]

1802 Aug [Saturday] - 7th. continued. H.M. sloop Investigator [Boat excursion up No.1, port, of the east coast]

reddish cliffs, which were the 2nd. of the kind seen, was the uppermost station taken; from this, the small peak upon the highest of the western hills bore 188º15'.] From a head lower down, where a small branch also ran off to the westward, the peak had borne 201º. 30'.- [We now proceeded downwards, and by the time we had reached the eastern arm opposite to the sleeping place it was noon.

[Sunday] - 8th. In the mouth of this eastern arm I found 31/2, and 4 fms. water which induced me to row a little way up it, when we landed upon the southern shore amongst the mangroves, and I walked to the top of a hill about 3/4 of a mile distant from whence the ship was visible , bearing 81º.30'. In passing the upper low mangrove islands in our way down the port, we left them to the westward, finding a channel of from 51/2 to 31/2 fms. close past two trees which stand by themselves At sunset, we reached the brig, where we staid all night. - [Lt. Murray informed me that he had had some difficulty in gaining the southern entrance from a shoal which lies about E.S.E. about 11/2 mile from the south head of Facing Island; and had met with two shoals between South-trees Point, and the south end of the 1st. island, near his present [anchor]age

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[page 42]

[Sunday - 8th.] Boat excursion up No.1, port, of the east coast

By an observation taking in the southern entrance, the latitude of the south head of Facing Island is 23º. 53' So. -
   At daylight in the morning, I left the brig and landed upon the southern part of the 1st. island, and took bearings. In order to get to the ship afterwards, we rowed to the south-eastward round a considerable shoal which stretches in that direction from the 1st. island, and afterwards got into a tolerable channel of 3 fms. in depth, leading towards the passage north of the 1st. island, but whether it continues through I cannot tell. We kept a channel of the same kind, however, in steering towards the Rocky I. and which seems to pass between some black rocks and a sand, which are dry at half tide; and from thence close to Facing Island for a small distance; but the bottom being rocky all round the Rocky I. there does not seem to be any regular channel on either side; and there is generally but 4 or 5 feet. At 91/2h. we reached the ship. -
    The general remarks which occurred during this excursion are as follows. The natives appear to be more numerous about the lower part of the port and the neighbouring sea coast than in the upper parts.

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[page 43]

1802 Aug [Sunday] - 8th. continued. H.M.S.Investigator [Boat excursion up the No.1, port, of the east coast]

We saw marks of them wherever we landed, but themselves were not seen. -
   Where I landed, the country was always stony, the country being overspread with loose stones of different sizes; but grass was not wanting and the trees were abundant and of a tolerable size. Quartzose granite, with red and black streaks, and sometimes pure quartz, formed the general body of the rock and stones, and was frequently cracked and broken in all directions, so that it was dangerous climbing up the rocky hills in some places for fear of their giving way. A slaty stone was not unfrequently found, and was stratified; and upon the 1st. island I found a softish white stone, which I thought might be calcarious, but it did not effervesce with acids on being brought on board
   The higher islands appear to consist of the same kind of stone as the main land, and they are also covered with wood and herbage. The lower islands are of mud or sand, but most probably upon a rocky foundation: they are thickly covered with mangroves as are the greater part of the shores of the river: The naturalist found 3 different kinds of this tree; but th[indecipherable letters] whose roots interweave thickly with each other seems to be the most numerous.

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[page 44]

[1802 Aug. Sunday - 8th.continued. H.M.S. Investigator] Boat excursion up No.1, port, of the east coast

The port itself may be of much utility, since its depth of water is equal to any want, and the shelter it affords complete. Wood it has in abundance, of the common kinds about Port Jackson, called gum-trees; and fresh water was found under the hill, called Hill View, at the back of the 1st. island; but it was in holes only. I did not find any water worth the attention of a ship during my excursion, but upon both sides of the northern entrance it was found by our gentlemen in various ponds and swamps; and there is little doubt but that a days examination for water would find it in sufficient abundance Fish appeared to be plentiful, and some were speared by the native in Bongaree who was always an attendant upon my boat. The natives inhabitants seem to get turtle, and 3 were seen in the water by different people. The shores abound with oysters, amongst which are the pearl oysters; but they are found in tolerable abundance higher up, than the entrance, sibut we were not able to get one with the dredge in the northern entrance. I saw no quadrupeds, and but few birds during the excursion, pelicans, gulls, and curlews excepted. - The tide rose but 4 feet up the river in the day time at the neap tides, but I should judge that at the springs it must rise double that quantity, from the appearance about Rocky Islet. The bottom is rocky, where the tides

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[page 45]

1802 Aug. H.M. sloop Investigator [In No. 1, port, of the east coast]

tides run rapidly, but otherwise it is sand, mud or clay, or a mixture of these.
   Mr. Murrays information respecting the southern entrance into the port was generally this. He did not find any passage on the south side of the shoal which lies E.S.E. from the south head of Facing Island but cannot say certainly that none exists. He thinks the deep water of the passage is not more than a mile in width, but about half a mile from the island there is from 6 to 10 fathoms, and the channel leadings fair up into the port. A vessel may lie securely just within the south head of the island, and may procure wood and water there according to Mr. Murrays account.

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[page 46]

[1802 Aug. H.M. sloop Investigator] In No. 1, port, of the east coast
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

[Friday] - 6th. Moderate breezes with fine weather. - Got the small bower cable up on deck, cleared the tier, and coiled the cable against the sun. The Commander went away in the whale-boat to examine the port, and at the same time the brig got under weigh but was soon after obliged to come to an [anchor]. In the evening the boat returned, and the brig got under weigh to go round to the southern entrance. At night, light airs, and hazy thick weather. A.M. The Commander went away for two days to examine the port. - Sent the cutter and a party to haul the sein.

[Saturday] - 7th. Light breezes with fine weather. Heard the report of a gun, and soon after saw the L. Nelson entring the port from the southern passage - Boat returned from fishing without success. - Calm with fine weather. A.M. Light breeze. Sighted the [anchor], and finding it foul, cleared and let it go again. A party of gentlemen on shore as usual, examining the country. Sent the boats to fish, and to dredge for oysters, but they had no success. - Noon, light airs and calms

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[page 47]

1802 Aug. H.M.sloop Investigator, in the [entrance of No. 1, port, of the east coast]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

[Sunday] - 8th. Light breezes and fine weather. People employed working up junk Calm and light winds. A.M. Sighted the [anchor], found it clear, and let it go again. Saw the L. Nelson under weigh, and soon after the Commander returned on board Washed and cleaned below. Mustered the ships company and saw them clean

[Monday] - 9th. Light breezes and cloudy weather. Part of the ships company had leave to go on shore upon Facing Island, till sunset. On its threatening to blow in the evening, ranged both cables, and kept hands by the other [anchor]. At 81/2, heard a gun in the N.E. answered it and shewed a light, and at 12, the Lady Nelson [anchor]ed a little to the eastward of us. At daylight, up top-gallant yards, and On weighing the [anchor], we found one of the arms broken off, and the buoy rope having by some means held fast to it, was lost with the buoy. - Some swell rolling in from the S.E.ward. There having been little strain on the [anchor], and no chafe on the cable to indicate a rocky bottom we were at a loss to account for the [anchor] being broken; but on examining it, there was a flaw found through 2/3rds. of the iron

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[page 48]

[1802 Aug. H.M.sloop Investigator, in the] entrance of No. 1, port, of the east coast

The astronomical observations taken here, are as follows, by Lt. Flinders

[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

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[page 49]

1802 Aug. [Monday] - 9th. continued, Investigator [into Keppel Bay]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

At 6h.30 A.M. Made sail along the coast in company with the L. Nelson. -
Passed between C. Capricorn and the rocks lying to the S.E.ward of it, with from 8 to 11 fms.: the L. Nelson ahead. At 10, hauled round the cape for Keppel Bay. Hauled up to pass between C. Keppel and the rocks off it, but got into shoal waters, and the brig finding no passage, we hauled without the rocks and brought to. - Noon, C. Keppel So. 21/2 miles. Rocks S.W. 11/4 C. Capn. S.78ºE.
From Port No. 1 to C. Capricorn the coast is sandy and not high. Upon the cape is a very distinguishable round hummock. The passage between the cape and the rocks to the S.E. of it is very good in 7 or 8 fms. The small sandy entrance immediately on the west side of the cape is small and blocked up with sands which stretch out to a considerable distance to sea and extend along the shore all the way to C. Keppel. The shoal upon which we had 3 fms. does not seem to be connected with the shoal water near the shore, but the passage between seems narrow. There does not appear to be any ship-passage between C. Keppel and the rocks off it, but the rocks may be passed near to on the west side

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[page 50]

[Tuesday] - 10th. into Keppel Bay
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

Mod. & fine weather. Soon after noon, bore away, and at 0h.40' hauled up into Keppel Bay seeing deeper water. At 2, tacked, at about 11/2 miles from a point on the east shore and worked up to within one mile of it when we came to with the small bower, in 51/2 fms. soft bottom. Sent the cutter to haul the sein, but she had little success. The Commander went on shore and a party of gentlemen to take a view of the bay and to examine the country. - Steadied the ship with the kedge - Light breezes and cloudy, with vivid lightening to the southward
A.M. The Commander took the whale-boat and embarked on board the Lady Nelson in order to examine the bay, and soon after she weighed, but [anchor]ed 2 or 3 miles to the westward. At low water, a shoal nearly dry appeared between the two vessels - Employed getting the broken [anchor] down the main hatchway in the place of a new one taken up. Stocked the new [anchor] and got it into the fore chains
Moderate breezes and cloudy with spitting rain at times

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[page 51]

1802 Aug. [Tuesday] 10th. in Keppel Bay. - Boats examinat[ion of the bay and rivers -]

0n taking a view of the bay from a small hill near our [anchor]age, I saw three four different places where the water opened through the borders of the bay into the country; but these did not appear to be extensive; however I determined to make the circuit of the bay with the brig and boat; and as far as two or three days would go to make an examination and sketch of it. At 7, A.M. We weighed in the brig and steered W.S.W. for the 1st. Middle I. carrying from 6 to 9 fms. until a small south hill bore S141/2E when it shoaled to 2, but passing on, it deepened again to 5 and 7 fms. when the small south hill bore S.17º.E. On its shoaling again to 2, we tacked when the hill bore S.25E. and [anchor]ed
On continuing the course in the boat, we passed over 5 feet, and then deepened to 8 fms. before we came to the shoal which runs off from the 1st. Middle I.; so that there are three different passages up the bay, which probably lead into different arms. The first near the eastern shore, which is the largest, seems to lead into the two south easternmost arms; - the 2nd., where the brig [anchor]ed, probably leads into the south-western arm, and the third into the western arm. Into this last river there are three openings; one of which is on the western shore between it and the first middle I. and is more than what has been mentioned; in it there is 3 fms. but the channel is very narrow and lies most on the island side. The 2nd. channel is between the 1st. and 2nd. Middle I. and in it I had 7 and 8 fms. but in mid-passage only 3: I suppose the deep water to lie on the 1st. island side. The most southern

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[page 52]

[1802 Aug. Tuesday - 10th. in Keppel Bay. - Boats examinat]ion of the bay and rivers -

southern channel into the western river was not examined, nor can I tell which of the first mentioned passages lead into it.
The small south hill being open on the west side of the highest of the short hills, seems to lead into the passage of the south-western river, for on their coming on, we were upon the shoal which runs from the 1st. middle I. eastward. After rowing back to the N.E.ward, round this shoal, we entered the small 3 fms. channel, and landed upon the west end of the 1st. Middle Island; from the small cliffy hill of which, I took bearings. The greater part of this island, is low and covered with mangroves, and the 2nd. and 3rd. island seem to be altogether so. -
From Leaving the 1st. Middle Island, we rowed along the northern shore of the western river, about 41/2 miles, carrying from 4 to 8 fms. close to the shore. After dining, I walked up to the highest hill near the shore, and took an extensive set of angles. From this hill I saw, that the western river did not run to any great distance, but branched off into arms, making various intersections in the low land to the southward and westward; the furthest parts being about 10 miles distant. Between the hills near the sea coast, and a range which lies about 15 or 20 miles to the southward and takes a NW.erly direction, the land seems to be low and swampy, with many branchs from these Keppel-Bay rivers intersecting it. The breadth of the main stream appeared to be half

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[page 53]

1802 Aug. [Wednesday] - 11th. Keppel Bay. Boat excursion to [examine the rivers &c.]

a mile at the distance of 10 miles up the western arm, and about 1 mile towards the entrance: from the various arms and swamps to be filled up, the tide runs with great rapidity in the lower parts.
   Upon the hills were some marks of natives and many of kanguroos, and several of the latter were seen. I met with a kind of palm, there which was new to the naturalist. It was so near to sunset on my return to the beac[indecipherable letter] that it was dark before we rowed back to the west end of the 1st. island, where we slept. +
   In the morning, we passed between the 1st. and 2nd. Middle Islands, with irregularly soundings from 8 to 3 fms. the 1st. island side seeming to be deepest.
   + Note. It was high water at 7 P.M. where we slept, and the difference in the height of the tide at that time and at low water in the night was 91/2 feet; but the high water of the next morning was 31/2 feet lower.
   The wind being southerly, we steered east from this 2nd. passage, having shoal water; but in order to get to the southern shore, we took in the sails and rowed to windward. At the distance of 1 mile from the shore there found was 5, and soon after 8 fms., being then in the stream out of from the south-western arm. The mud running out far from the southern shore, we were not able to land, but kept along it, until a shoal spit running out towards the middle of the bay obliged us to keep haul further off; and the lee tide being then strong, I thought

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[page 54]

[1802 Aug. Wednesday - 11th. Keppel Bay. Boat excursion to] examine the rivers &c.

it adviseable to run to the ship, and leave the more eastern arms for another day. There was not so much as three fathoms water until we were half way across, and the soundings then were irregular from 31/2 to 6 fms. to near the ship: there was then 5 and 6.-
[Thursday] - 12th. As soon as the weather tide made, we shewed the signal from the ship, for the brig to come within hail, and she accordingly got under weigh and [anchor]ed near us. - I landed in the afternoon and took a set of bearings from Sea Hill; from whence, as well as from which I had seen before, it was plain, that the brig could be of no material service to me in the future examination of this bay, and therefore I desired Lt. Murray to weigh on the following morning, and run to the hummocky island which lies to the north-eastward of C. Keppel where he was to collect as many turtle as might be he could in two days; and after making such remarks as would be serviceable to navigation, he was to return on the third day; or immediately, if the island afforded no [anchor]age. -
[Friday] - 13th. Having formed a sketch of such parts of the bay and its rivers as I had already seen, and brought up much other necessary work, I departed again at 2 PM. from the ship to examine the more eastern arms. -
Keeping from half a mile to 3/4 of a mile from the northern shore

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[page 55]

1802 Aug. [Friday] - 13th. Boat excursions to examine the [rivers of Keppel Bay]

shore, we I found but 4 and 3 fms. to the point which divides the eastern arm into two branches; the one running E.S.E. the other S.S.E. We took the former, and after rowing abt. 6 miles stopped on the N.E. shore, above three small mangrove islands which seperate the branch into different passages. The principal direction of the branch to this part was S.S.E. and its width about 3/4 of amile. The depth of water was various, between 6 and 3 fms. being deepest upon the eastern shore, until we came to the mangrove islands when there did not appear to be more than 2, at low water. - At this place we slept, as well as the mosquitos and sand flies would permit us; and after taking the bearings of the highest inland hill, and of the broad mount in the morning, we rowed upwards.-
   The rise of the tide at this place was from 10 to 12 feet, and the time of high water was about 9 in the evening, the moon wanting 28 hours of being full. We found The river to diminished both in depth and breadth as we proceeded upwards, and to divided itself ainto small channels amongst the mangroves, but apparently they all joining again further on Having advanced about 4 miles from the place where we slept the branch began to widen and to get deeper, having 21/2 fms. of water in it; and it soon became evident, that it communicated with No. 1 port. I took a station directly opposite to the 2nd. reddish cliffs which had been the uppermost station from No. 1 port, and from thence the small peak upon the highest inland hill bore 189º.15', and the broad mount on the west side of Keppel Bay 292º.15'
   From having found one communication, we were led to hope that the branch leading to the westward near the

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[page 56]

[1802 Aug. [Friday] 13th. Boat excursions to examine the] rivers of Keppel Bay

reddish cliffs might take us into some other arm of Keppel Bay, and finding four fathoms in the channel favoured the supposition for a little time; but at the distance of 2 miles up it became quite shoal and choaked up with mangroves, and obliged us to return by the way we came.- The tide having half ebbed before we came to the shoalest part of the communicating channel, where it is intersected by mangrove islands, the boat was scarcely saved from being left upon the soft mud 'till the return of the following tide; and until we came abreast of the place where we had slept, the shallowness of the water obliged us constantly to chuse look out for where it was deep enough for the boat. The space which is judged to be mostly dry at the last quarter ebb, is about 21/2 miles in length; but it is, however, possible, that some small stream of sufficient depth for a boat to pass at all times, may exist in some of the mangrove channels amongst the mangroves, but I think it doubtful. [The rise of the tide being from 8 to 14 feet, boats of any size may pass from one part to the other by suiting the tides, and both tides may be made to be favourable by taking care to be in the shoalest part abt. the time of high water.
 [Saturday] - 14th. Having nearly reached the point which divides the eastern arm into two branches, before the ebb tide was done, we stopped to dine, and to take bearings. Afterwds. we entered

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[page 57]

1802 Aug: [Saturday] - 14th. Boat excursions for the examina[tion of the rivers of Keppel Bay]

we entered the southern branch of this arm south east river, and rowed up it in a S.S.E. direction for 3 miles, finding about 3 fms. in it, nearest to the eastern shore, and the breadth of it near 3/4 of a mile. At this distance from the entrance it divided into two, but we pursued that which kept the general direction about 1 mile farther, where there was but 4 and 5 feet. On coming back to the other which led to the S.W.ward we found 3 and 4 fms. but it did not run furt more than 2 miles up before it became quite shoal, and our search amongst the mangroves for a place where to land at was fruitless; and therefore I returned to the ship at 11 at night. -
    The Lady Nelson had returned from the hummocky island, not having seen a turtle. The island does not appear to afford any good [anchor]age, or is there wood or water upon it worth the attention of a ship. {No islands appeared to the N.E.ward
   At 8 A.M. I left the ship to examine the middle arm, and after passing over the spit which runs from the east point of entrance found a good channel leading up on the eastern shore with from 4 to 51/2 fms. in it. We landed at the foot of the small south hill on the west side, which I intended to ascend in order to gain a better knowledge of the branches which intersect the land on the south side of the bay; this, however, the thickness of the trees and shrubs, and the strength of the

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[page 58]

[1802 Aug: Saturday - 14th. Boat excursions for the
examina]tion of the rivers of Keppel Bay

vines by which they are bound together, rendered impracticable. At high water, the tide flows in at the back of this hill and makes several small islands mostly covered with mangroves: at other times the seperations are muddy swamps. By a fatiguing walk amongst this kind of land, I gained a very little knowledge of the continuation of the middle arm, and suppose that it communicates with the next arm to the westward. These two and the western arm, ramify out into the land on the south side of the bay, and it is probable that some of them join and form islands. The task of pursuing these to minuteness and precision would have taken much more time than could be spared from the many more principal objects of the voyage and therefore I determined to leave Keppel Bay with the knowledge I had already gained. ( on next page
   The general remarks made during these last excursions are few.- No inhabitants were seen. The country seems to be divided into hills which are stony, and low land which consists either of muddy salt-water swamps, or is covered with impenitrable mangroves: there are very few places in the whole of the arms visited, where it is possible to land without walking some distance in soft mud and cutting through mangrove

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[page 59]

1802 Aug: [Sunday] - 15th. Keppel Bay. General remarks [during the boat excursions up the arms]

+ Three leaves forward
-groves.- The water in all the arms is very muddy, which seems to arise from the consistence of the bottom and shores, and from the rapidity of the tides. This prevented our native from spearing any fish, for they seemed to abound generally. Ducks, pelicans, white and other cranes, curlews, and sea-pies are met with frequently. - In the muddy swaps about the small south hill, the small fish mentioned by C. C. [Captain Cook] which leap about on shore, are very common; as also a small but pretty kind of red crab, which has but one large red claw which he carries as if upon his back.
( Belongs to last page
     On leaving this small south hill, in the boat, as soon as the tide floated the boat, which was not before 9 at night, I attempted to trace the deep channel out to the ship, and succeeded so far as to keep 3 fms. water, but I suppose there must be more in the middle of the channel: we arrived on board the ship at 11.
The south hill being thickly covered with shrubs, I offered a boat to the botanists to visit it which they accepted, but they did not find much novelty.
Speaking generally of Keppel Bay I think it to be of little value. Fresh water can be procured, but we found no place where it would not be attended with difficulty. Our [anchor]age seems to be as good as any other for a ship who came in only for a few days. Wood is easily procured and water may be found in small

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[page 60]

[1802 Aug: Sunday - 15th. Keppel Bay. General remarks] during the boat excursions up the arms.

ponds and swamps at the back of the beach the best place being at a hole at the upper end of the small hill on the point.
The country round the bay is about described as good for little. The grass upon the hills, however, feed some kanguroos, and emu's were seen near C. Keppel. Ducks are numerous in the lagoon ponds near that place and a small tract of country in thes neighbourhood is described as being superiorsuperior to any other seen. Some variety of birds are found in the woods and amongst others the emu and another large kind of bird; and we were fortunate enough to take a small supply of fish in our sein
   The oysters which are commonly found in some places upon the mud are of a very small kind. They do not adhere to rocks generally, but to each other, and form large bodies, in some places [indecipherable word] the mud banks. There are also pearl oysters, but seemingly not so abundant as in No1, port. The remains of large crabs are seen near the natives fire places.- I found several large holes scratched out, about the hills, the cause of which I did not understand comprehend; but we conjecture, that it is to get at a root which they natives eat, some being found near the holes where small fires had been also made.
   The rise of tide in the bay and its arms seems to be from 9 to 14 feet, and the time of high water is near 21/2 hours before the [new moon] comes to the meridian. The day tide seems to fall 2 or 3 feet short of that at night. The tide runs strongest at the last 1/4 flood and first ebb, and turns su[indecipherable letters]

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[page 61]

1802 Aug. [Wednesday] - 11th. H.M.S. Investigator
[in Keppel Bay]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Fresh breezes and cloudy. The master away sounding in the cutter
Moderate breezes and cloudy, clear at night
A.M.
Moderate & fine wr. with haze.
People employed variously. Gentlemen on shore examining the country. The Commander returned on board with the whale boat
[Thursday] - 12
     Fresh breezes and hazy. Made the signal to the L. Nelson to speak and she accordingly weighed and came to an anchor near us. Sighted the [anchor], and finding it clear let it go again
Light breezes and hazy.
A.M. At 2 found the tide to have fallen 12 feet since the last high water according to the lead
   Moderate breezes and fine weather
The Lady Nelson got under weigh and stood to seaward to the largest hummocky island off Cape Keppel. Mustered the ships company and saw them clean. Boats employed carrying gentlemen to and from the shore

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[page 62]

[1802 Aug. Friday - 13th. H.M.S. Investigator]
in Keppel Bay
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Fresh breezes and cloudy weather
The Commander went away in the whale-boat to examine the eastern rivers that fall into the bay. The cutter employed hauling the sein Served fish to the people. - Served out slops, and aired the rest before they were stowed away
A.M. Mod and cloudy. People on board employed occasionally The cutter employed hauling the sein - Do. weather
 [Saturday] - 14th.
Moderate breezes and cloudy.
At 3, the L. Nelson come to an [anchor] near us. In the evening served out the fish brought on board by the cutter. - The Commander returned.
A.M. The Commander went away to examine the middle arm which falls into the bay.
Sailmakers employed making a main sail for the L. Nelson Moderate breezes and fine weather

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[page 63]

1802 Aug. [Sunday] - 15th. H.M.S. Investigator [in Keppel Bay.]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Light airs and cloudy. The cutter employed hauling the sein. On broaching a cask of rice, found a part of it damaged. Mod. breezes and fine wr. a heavy dew falling. The Commander returned. - {Tide rose 12 feet this high water
A.M.
Fine weather. Loosed sails to dry
Expenditure of water last week 3 tons, remaining 46.
Mustered the ships company and saw them clean, and part had leave afterwards to walk on shore
[Monday] - 16th.
Moderate breezes and cloudy.
Saw several natives on shore for the first time here, with our people who were upon liberty. A mate and one man did not return on board Calm and fine weather A.M.
Fired two guns as signals to the two people on shore, and sent the cutter in search, but without success About 10, saw about 25 natives coming along the beach with our two people. Sent a boat and brought them latter on board. Employed putting a short service upon the working cable, and in occasional duties

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[page 64]

[Monday - 16th.] in Keppel Bay.

No natives having been seen in our neighbourhood, now for a week, I considered there was no danger in indulging the seamen with a walk on shore. They
natives made their appearance suddenly, to the number of 20, in the neighbourhood of Cape Keppel, with spears which they kept poised in a threatening attitude; but these they were afterwards prevailed with to layd aside, and many of them came nearly to the ships with the seamen, in a peaceable manner
  The masters mate and seaman who were left on shore, had incautiously strayed away by themselves although they knew of the natives being near, and when they should have been at the beach were entangled in a mangrove swamp some miles back distant from it. In the morning they met with the natives, who gave them some food and conducted them to the shore. - At this time I had taken the whale boat round to Cape Keppel to take bearings from thence, and partly to look after these two people men, so that I saw nothing of the natives but except at a distance; but they are described by the gentlemen who went to them as being a stout muscular people; having no arms, and apparently intending no offence. They seemed to understand bartering better than most or perhaps than any people we had seen. They had the same kind of hard tumours upon the bone of the wrist, as the people of Sandy Cape had, and the cause of it was

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[page 65]

1802 Aug. [Monday] - 16th. in Keppel Bay

attempted to be explained, but ineffectually, to one of the gentlemen. They did not seemed to be devoid of curiosity in some things, but what might have been judged to excite it most, frequently passed without notice. On Thursday morning, after we had weighed, a considerable party of them were seen again opposite to where the vessels had laid; so that we may hope that our conduct and presents have so far conciliated their good will and gained their confidence, that they will be glad #

+ three leaves back, to be inserted [The last three words have been added in pencil]
  The stone about Keppel Bay consists principally of a slaty greyish stone, of quartz, and of a whitish and soft stone. The two first ares frequently found intermixed, and the last is generally, if not always, above them. The quartz is of various colours, but some is pure: none was seen in a chrystalized state. The quartz is not unfrequently mixed with some other matters, and perhaps becomes granite in some cases.

# to have a friendly communication with the next ship that may visit their neighbourhood.

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[page 66]

Astronomical observations - by Lt. Flinders

[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

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[page 67]

1802 Aug. [Tuesday] - 17th H.M.S. Investigator in [Keppel Bay - East Coast]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Light airs with fine weather, but sultry. Cutter returned on board, after having had an interview with the natives At 3, the Commander returned with the whale boat, from Cape Keppel
Cut up beef No 39 - short 12 lbs. Weighed the kedge, hoisted in the boats and secured them, and prepared for sea.
A.M. Light airs and fine weather
At 6h.30' weighed and made sail for the Keppel Isles with the Lady Nelson in company.
     Made all sail, but finding at 91/2h. that we did not stem the flood tide, dropped a kedge under foot about 3/4 of a mile to the NW.ward of our former anchorage
A breeze coming in from the sea, lowered down the sails Sailmakers employed making a new M. sail for the L Nelson.
Made a new messenger, the old being stranded Light airs & fine, with haze.

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[page 68]

[1802 Aug. [Tuesday] 17th H.M.S. Investigator in]
Keppel Bay - East Coast
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The absence of the two people who had staid on shore all night, making it necessary to wait, I took the boat early on Monday morning and went to Cape Keppel from whence I had a tolerable view of the neighbouring isles, and it was too late to move before I was able to return. - C. Cook had passed between the largest of the Keppel Isles, finding the water too shoal between them and the main; and on that account I purpose to pass further without, to gain as much knowledge of the navigation amongst them as may be. Lt. Murray had seen smoke upon the largest isles when he was upon the hummocky isle off Cape Keppel, which agrees with C.Cs [Captain Cook's] account of their being inhabited. -
    The water being very thick and muddy in all the rivers which fall into the Keppel Bay, and this water running towards the sea at the latter part of the ebb, is very deceiving in its appearance; for the deepest channels contain the thick water, whilst those places in which there is little tide will contain the sea water which is clear. The colour of the water, therefore, must be taken in a contrary sense in indicating shoals in this case, to what it is usually taken

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[page 69]

1802 Aug. [Wednesday] - 18th. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast - Keppel Isles]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Light airs with fine weather. At 0h.35', weighed the kedge, on the ebb tide making. Tacked occasionally keeping in the deepest channel out of the bay. At 4, the rocks off C. Keppel, S.b.W.11/4'. At dusk, made the signal to prepare to [anchor], and at 6h.30' dropped the kedge [anchor] upon a bottom of sand and mud. The hummocky I. bearing E.13º.S miles, and the outermost is land N4º.W. Light airs and fine wr.: water smooth. - At 7, the ship tended to the flood tide. At 1, A.M. found the rise of tide to be 8 feet. - Heavy dew Light breezes & fine weather At daylight, weighed and made sail to pass to the eastward of the Keppel Isles.
At 10, Passed along the east side of the largest I. - Saw natives upon it
Washed and cleaned below
Light breezes & hazy weather
At noon, No.most of Keppel I. in sight N.64W. Nearest I. south end S.22º.W. dist 11/2 mile. The N.E.most, called lst. lump S.67.E. Extreme of the main N.21º.W. - Hazy weather

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[page 70]

[1802 Aug. [Wednesday] - 18th. H.M.S. Investigator] along the east coast - Keppel Isles
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

Keppel Isles are a considerable cluster, if we include the various rocks and rocky islets which lie scattered about and amongst them. There are two islands of considerable size, the largest being 7 or 8 miles in circumference, and inhabited: we saw men also upon one of the smaller and more northern isles. -
   We did not find any dangers amongst them but what are sufficiently apparent; and they no doubt afford several [anchor]ages. The largest I. has some sandy bays in it, but the best of them seem to exposed to the easterly winds.
   The isles seem to have grass and bushes upon them and there are trees upon the second largest island. From the gullies upon the sides of the hills, I should judge that fresh water is not very scarce: the presence of natives confirms this. There does not seem to be much sand upon any of the isles, but they are all rocky, and some of them tolerably high

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[page 71]

1802 Aug: [Thursday] - 19th. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast - Off C. Manifold]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Light breezes and fine weather Made signal to the brig to shorten sail, and then to steer in shore for an opening; but, finding the water shoal, and no good passage apparent, hauled off and steered along the coast. At 5, the wind dying away & finding the ship drifting towards the shore, dropped a kedge upon a sandy bottom about 11/4' dist from the sandy shore
1st. lump of Keppel I. S.50.E. An island near C. Manifold N.4º.E. Two other small isles in the offing - {Cut up pork No.11, 3 pieces short of contents
Light airs and calms
Thick foggy weather, and heavy dew
At 7, made the signal to weigh, hauled up the kedge and made all sail along the coast. Light airs and foggy weather.
Mustered ships company and saw them clean
Served sour krout and vinegar to the ships company
Noon, light airs and foggy. Rocky point Two rocks near the shore S.47.W.11/2'. A peaked rock N.31º.E. A flat islet N. 651/2ºE. Brig in Compy.

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[page 72]

[1802 Aug [Thursday] - 19th. H.M.S. Investigator] along the east coast - Off C. Manifold
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

   The little bay which the shoaling of the water prevented us from trying further to enter, is open to the S.E. and probably affords no water deep enough for a ship to ride in. Its direction is along the shore, of which it forms a narrow neck at its head with the sea.
   The shore from the Isles to past where we dropped the kedge [anchor] is sandy and generally low, but at two or three miles inland it rises to a considerable height. Natives came down to the beach where we [anchor]ed.
   The two islets in the offing are situated nearly as the Two Brothers of C.C.s [Captain Cook's] chart, but they are so altogether unlike in their appearance, that I am in uncertainty concerning them. The one is a small peaked rock, probably with some low land around it, whilst the other is a low flat islet, without eminences or trees. They appear to be equally rocky. - On seeing the peaked islet from the northern side, a perforation through it, in the lower part, was distinguishable. - Note. In C.Cs [Captain Cook's] account, I find these rocky islets distinguished, as we find them; but the name brothers is not there used: - perhaps the name may have crept into the charts improperly.

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[page 73]

1802 Aug. [Friday] - 20th. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast - Cape Manifold]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Light airs and hazy. Finding the ship drawing near the land, tacked at 30' past noon, and soon after a moderate breeze sprung up. At 3, tacked, a low rocky islet in the offing N.5º to 12ºE. 4 miles. At 5, tacked offshore, it being dist 2 or 3 miles - Hazy weather
At 7, the peaked rock N1/2W. 3' or 4' tacked in shore, and the wind being moderate and the brig much to leeward, dropped the kedge soon after 9 oclock about 21/2 miles from the land Fired a gun, which was answered by the brig. Kept a light all night
A.M. Fresh breezes & fine weather. At day light, the brig not in sight. Weighed and made sail as well along the coast as the wind would permit, supposing the brig had passed us by means of the shift of wind.
At 9, tacked towards the land, but it immediately became calm Hoisted the cutter within board to be repaired. Saw the L. Nelson to the E.S.E.ward. At noon, moderate breeze & hazy weather. Peaked rock in the offing S.711/2°E. Hummock rock at the northern extreme N391/2W Nearest shore dist 3 miles to the S.W.

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[page 74]

[1802 Aug. Friday - 20th. H.M.S. Investigator] along the east coast - Cape Manifold
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The island lying off C. Manifold is stony and not very low. The back land of the main is very hummocky, and of moderate height. The shore immediately about the cape is divided into rocky heads and small beaches, but elsewhere the shore is sandy. The country has but a barren appearance
   At the distance of 3 or 4 miles to the northward there are some small rocks lying at a short distance from the shore; and about the same distance further on, which is the land nearly abreast at this noon, the land seems to be much broken, into rocky islets, heads and intermediate sandy beaches

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[page 75]

1802 Aug. [Saturday] - 21st. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast - into No. 2, port]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Mod. breezes and hazy weather 1h. Tkd. Ship}
At 3, the brig in sight, from the masthead bearing S.E.b.E. Kept standing off in order to get nearer to her. At 5, tacked towards the land, the brig not yet visible from the deck Light airs and hazy. Peaked rocky islet S1/2W. at dusk. At 8, fired a gun but received no answer from the brig
Light breezes and hazy. Tacked ship
At 2, shortened sail & laid the M.topsail to the mast, waiting for the brig to come up. At 5, filled on the wind permitting us to steer in for the land, and fired a gun, but heard no answer. At 6, the brig in sight to the southward. At 91/2, tacked off, being about 11/2' dist from some rocky islets. Saw an opening to windwd: and made the signal to the brig to steer in shore, she having now met us. At 11, passed close to an island in the mouth of the opening, and stood up, but finding the water become shoaler, tacked and [anchor]d one mile from the island, it bearing N26º to 69ºE - Point of the south entrance S.29E. Mod. & hazy wr -

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[page 76]

[1802 Aug. [Saturday] - 21st. H.M.S. Investigator] along the east coast - into No. 2, port
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The land from which we tacked at 1 P.M. and was distant but 3/4 of a mile is of moderate height, and seem to be an island. The land a little farther on seems to be much broken and has some appearance of affording inlets. -
   On coming in with the land in the morning it appeared, that there was an opening at the back of several rocky islets, which seem here to form a barrier to the coast; there seems however to be deep water amongst them. It surprised us somewhat to see trees resembling the Norfolk I. pine upon the upon the islets, and some parts of the main. Generally, the country appears to be stony and destitute of any but very small vegetation. The hills are abrupt and appear romantic; being well suited to the purpose of ascent and of affording good views

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[page 77]

1802 Aug: [Sunday] - 22nd. H.M.S. Investigator [in No. 2, port, discovered on the east coast]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Mod. breezes & hazy weather. A party of gentlemen landed on the north side of the port to examine the country; and the Commander landed upon the island in the entrance. Carpenters employed cutting down pines to make [anchor] stocks. Sent the cutter to haul the sein, and in the evening she returned with moderate success; and having found a watering place on the north side
A.M. Light airs with hazy weather. The Commander took the whale-boat to examine the port. Sent on shore 45 empty casks to be filled on the north side, in a gully where the water comes down from the hills. Carpenters cutting pines upon Entrance Island, for planks etc. and for fire wood. - Lt. Murray reported, that the brigs main keel was so badly sprung as to be useless: this had been done when coming round from Facing Island, No. 1, port.
Fresh breezes and fine weather. Employed on board in the holds
[Monday] - 23. Mod. breezes with fine weather. There being some surf risen upon the small beach where the water runs, we had some difficulty in getting off the casks, and a considerable part were left on the shore, and sent men with a midshipman to get them filled as the water ran. The Commander returned at 7 P.M. from his excursion up the

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[page 78]

[1802 Aug.[Sunday] - 22nd. H.M.S. Investigator]
[Monday] 23 in No. 2, port, discovered on the east coast

port. A.M. Moderate breezes & fine weather. The boats employed towing off water casks, but on account of the surf, 12 still remained on shore. Sent a boat to fetch off pine logs from Entrance Island. Employed on board stowing away water - Do. weather

My excursion in the whale-boat was as follows. Upon the lst. Entrance Island, where a set of angles were taken, I saw, that the port divided itself into two branches, but that it had not the appearance of being very extensive. We had many empty water casks on board the ship which there was an opportunity of filling in this port here, and the rocky islets on this north side, more specially Entrance Islet, afforded the kind of pine found at Norfolk Island, which would be convenient to us for many purposes; I therefore laid down a plan of duty to be followed during my absence, and early on Sunday morning, rowed from the ship to the point of the southern branch. Until we came near the opposite shore the soundings were 5 fms., but it then deepened, and immediately off the inner south point, there is no bottom at 10 fms. From an eminence behind this point, I took angles, and then steered across, westward, for the end of a dry sandy spit, and to a hilly projection which proved to be near the head of the western arm of the port At this place, the observed latitude, from the artificial horizon was 22º.30'.27" So. Entrance Island

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[page 79]

1802 Aug: Boat excursion in No. 2, port, discovered [on the east coast]

Bearing N.64º12' to 67º45'Et. by theodolite; and the sea was visible at 345º over ^a) shoal dry place into which it appears to flow when the tide rises. This appears to be the bight behind Island Head as marked in C.Cs [Captain Cook's] charts.
   From the inner south point to this place, we found no deep water, except close to the point. The great part of the western branch is dry at low water, but there are small irregular channels amongst the sands in which there is sometimes 3 or 4 fms. These sand banks are frequented by ducks, and the channels abound with flat fish, mullet, and sharks.
   In the afternoon, I returned to the southern branch and ascended a high round hill which stands close to the shore, on the east side, from whence Cape Manifold and the isles in the offing were visible as well as the whole extent of the southern part of this port. In coming across, the water was very variable in its depth, but on coming near the shore the water was it became deep as off the inner south point and I believe there is a channel, of ten or more fathoms along this shore, but it does not probably go far up the southern arm. I judge, that a ship might make fast to the trees or rocks on shore, and lie in a sufficient depth of water, having an [anchor] to the westward. As it was dark by the time that I had descended from the hill, it was too late to ascertain the

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[page 80]

[1802 Aug. Boat excursion in No. 2, port, discovered] on the east coast

the spot where this might be done, or to search whether fresh water could be found in a convenient place, which the neighbourhood of hills would induce one to suppose. There are some small beaches in this port well adapted for hauling the sein upon, and fish appeared to be numerous about them. I know of no difficulty that a ship would have to get at this part of the port from either side of the Entrance Island; but it would be prudent to [anchor] before passing round the inner south point, and then examine the shore and the soundings before with a boat before the ship was finally placed: and she would then be in sufficient security to undergo any refitment or repair that might be wanted. - insert, from next page
   We arrived on board the ship about 7 in the evening The general remarks that occurred in this short excursion as well as on board during our stay are as follows: We saw No pine trees were seen
any where in the port, but at the northern entrance. The country seems to be stony or sandy in general, and unfit for cultivation; but nevertheless, trees of considerable size, and grass in moderate abundance, are produced. Marks of kanguroos were not unfrequent. Hawks, and the black & bald-headed mocking bird of Port Jackson were more commonly seen than any other birds on shore. Ducks, sea pies and gulls frequent the shoals

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[page 81]

1802 Aug. Boat excursion in No. 2, port. discovered [upon the east coast. - Pine trees]

General remarks continued
      Fish seem to be more numerous here than in any port we have yet visited, Amongst these, sharks mullet and flying fish were most frequently seen. +
The shoals, and the bottom in most parts of the port, are of sand, and rather hard; but in the deep channel along this inner south head the bottom is soft. + Some turtle were seen, but could not be taken.
   We saw no natives, but the country on the south side of the port was on fire. They appear to visit the islets, there being marks of them upon Entrance Islet, but not recent. -
   The pines which grow upon Entrance Island, and the parts nearest to its neighbourhood, are perhaps the most valuable part of the produce of this port. There are trees of sufficient size and form to make topmasts for ships, or spars of any smaller size. The branches of the trees are very brittle, but it was our Carpenters opinion, that that the trunks were tough wood, and superior to the Norway pine either for spars or for cutting into plank. His judgesment from the trees holding till they are nearly cut through before they fall, and from the chips; but I suspect that like the Norfolk Island wood it will not prove to be durable. Turpentine exudes out of them in considerable quan-

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[page 82]

[1802 Aug. Boat excursion in No. 2, port. discovered] upon the east coast. - Pine trees

-tities, more especially from between the bark and the wood. These trees are found upon the main land on the north side of the entrance, and also upon the neighbouring islets, more or less, but they are most numerous upon Entrance Islet, and seem to be straighter than else where. -
During the latter part of our stay, we found some sea rolling swell coming in from the south-eastward where we lay at [anchor], about one mile within the island; probably we should have laid better in the middle of the northern passage, having the island to the south east of us if the water there is not too deep. The south easterly swell and this rolling directly upon the north shore rendered our watering there very troublesome and tedious. The place where we procured water will hardly be mistaken, since we sent there with the expectation of finding water. It comes down a deep gully from the hills to a very small beach, on each side of which are projecting lumps of land seperated from the main. There are pine trees in this gully.
   As near as I can judge, it is high water here about two hours after before the moon comes to the meridian, and the tide seems to rise more than nine feet, but I can not say how much

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[page 83]

Astronomical observations upon Entrance Island. N.W. end
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

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[page 84]

1802 Aug. [Tuesday] - 24th. From No. 2, port
[Navigational data and astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

Moderate breezes and fine weather
Carpenters on shore upon Entrance Island cutting pine logs for plank. - With much difficulty, received on board the remaining water casks, which completed the ship to 57 tons. - Received on board 4 more pine logs for plank
Moderate breezes and cloudy.
A.M. Light airs. Employed securing the logs and preparing for sea. At daylight, got up T.Gt. yards, weighed and made sail to the northward
Washed and cleaned below
On the ebb tide making at 9 oclock we found the ship drifting to the southward, the wind being very light and variable. Dropped the kedge [anchor] at 10 o'clock, and made the signal to the brig to do the same. Entrance island bearing S.5º.E. dist 11/4 mile.
Light airs & fine weather, with some haze

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[page 85]

1802 Aug. [Wednesday] - 25th. H.M.S. Investigator [along the east coast. - Harveys Isles]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Light airs and fine weather. At 2h.30' a breeze springing up, and the tide beginning to slack, weighed and made sail, working to the northward. Tacked occasionally. At 4h.30' we were carried very near to a rocky islet, which we cleared with some difficulty. At 5h.30', stood between some rocky islets and the main and made the signal to prepare to [anchor]. At 7, came to with the kedge, one mile within some of Harveys Isles, which bore from N.E. to East. Other islets and the main from N.W. round by the west to S.E. Light breezes and fine weather. -
A.M. Moderate breezes and fine weather. At 5h.40' weighed, and made short trips working out from between Harveys Islands. At 7h.1/4 tacked in shore. C. Townsend bearing N.71º.W. and the islets under which we had [anchor]d S.15º.W. 4 miles At 9, tacked off, being 11/2' distant from the shore near Island Head.
At 10h., dropped the kedge near the 2nd hummocky rocks, perceiving the lee tide to be made. The Commander and some gentlemen landed upon the rocks which are a part of Harveys Isles. - Saw the L. Nelson at [anchor] near the main. -
Mod. breezes & fine weather

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[page 86]

[1802 Aug. Tuesday - 25th. H.M.S. Investigator] along the east coast. - Harveys Isles.
[Astronomical observations not reproduced - see original journal]

The islands which lie in the neighbourhood of Port No 2, from C. Manifold to Island Head, have the name Harveys Isles applied to them in the chart; but the discovery of the port seems to requ make a distinction amongst them, and I shall therefore call them Harveys Isles which lie between the port and Island Head. These isles have the same general character, being rocky, moderately high and steep. That side opposed to the sea is rocky cliffs, but on the land side they slope a little, and have a few scattered pines sometimes upon them, which shew their heads over all.
     Upon the highest part of the hummocky rocks; I had a view of several islands to the northward and observed the latitude as per column, after taking angles with the theodolite. - Several large turtle were seen about the rocks, and I struck one with large shot, but none were taken. - The rocks consist of a very hard stone of I know not what kind. A few shrubs and grass are produced upon the upper parts, and ants, grass-hoppers and lizards exist upon it. Small oysters adhere to the rocks below the wash of the surf

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[page 87]

1802 Aug. [Thursday] - 26th. H.M.S. Investigator [off Island Head; and in No. 3, passage to Shoal-water Bay]
[Navigational data not reproduced - see original journal]

Moderate breezes & fine. At 4 the gentlemen returned from the rocky islets, hoisted up the cutter. At 4 weighed and stretched in towards the shore, the lee tide being done.
At 4h.35, tacked being 1 mile from Island Head At 51/2h. tacked towards the bight between the head and C. Townsend, and at 7, [anchor]ed with the kedge in 18 fms. soft bottom. The brig being considerably astern, shewed a light to her. - Light airs & fine weather
A.M. Do. weather. At 5h.40' weighed and steered for an opening which bore S.52º.W. into which the tide appeared to set. On coming near the rocky points of the entrance the water shoaled suddenly, the cutter being ahead at a considerable distance had missed it. Dropped the