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To My Dear Uncle
As a slight token of deep
And affectionate love
From his most grateful
and dutiful Nephew
Philip Herapath

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The
Journal of a Voyage
From London, to Auckland,
New Zealand
In the Ship, Hark-Away, Stephens Com
1857 Feby 14th [In margin]
We left London on Saturday morning Feby. 14th 1857 accompanied by my our dear Uncle, and Brother, and the Rev John Barfitt, took the Train to Gravesend, and after dining, and the purchasing of a few necessaries went on board where our dear friends, remained with us about an hour and then left us, bitter were the Tears we shed, as the Boat gradually receded, and finally became lost to view, the

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world with all its wealth and riches would have been given to return but No, the, Die was caste; after the pang incidents to parting had in some degree subsided we went below and made the necessary preparations for, (To use a Nautical Phrase) Turn In we closed the day with prayer and praise to Him who holds the winds in the hollow of His hand, My dear wife slept soundly, not so myself. I failed to woo the sleepy Gods

Feb 1st [In margin]
Sunday came, and with it all the confusion so inseperably connected with the Passengers joining the Ship and other Matters connected with the departure on so long a Voyage, Night arrived and with it the positive intimation that we should leave the following

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Morning at 4 oClock, closed the day and retired for the night-

16th [In margin]
Monday morning rose at 4 and went on Deck. The Steam Tug lay alongside with the steam well up and ready to start, after no little difficulty in weighing the Anchor, paying out the Hawser and making the Tug and our good Ship the Hark-Away one away we went for Auckland, but alas! for human calculations how vain and futile the jolly old Pilot who came with us from Gravesend now left us abreast of Deal, and another from that place came on board and will to take us on to Plymouth but here the wind failed us, and we were obliged to drop anchor for the Night. Dear Emma retired early to

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Bed, very queer, and I soon joined her, slept soundly until six in the morning-

Feby 17 [In margin]
Tuesday rose at six, and went on Deck, in the fond hope of seeing the other side of the, South Forelands before breakfast, but no, Boreas would not breathe until the Crew, had breakfasted, and then what a pulling and overhauling of Ropes, Sails, and Chains, now her snowy wings were being gradually spread to catch the freshening breeze the wind from the south west, which rendered it necessary to beat out to Sea, we had an excellent view of the South Foreland, with its two fixed Lights, with and the fine old Castle on Dover Heights . Now the wind begins to lull and at last leaves

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us entirely, at the mercy of the Ripples.The day one of the most beautiful it is possible to imagine, we are promenading the Poop and not a breath of wind blowing, we go down to dine, (but I had forgotten to say Emma was in Bed eating Biscuits and on the whole very ill) and suffering from depression of Spirits, during dinner we heard the unwelcome sound of the Anchor being let go in order to Keep the little advantage obtained and here we are abreast of Dover the lights of the Town terminated by those of the Foreland forming a very interesting sight when seen from the Sea - There has been a little grumbling today in consequence of the arrangements made for dining there is an aristocratic

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party on board, a Major and his Lady, and the person who asked the rude question, Viz , what capacity are you going out in being one of four, intimation has been given to the Captain that his arrangements have not given the Satisfaction so much to be desired under the circumstances, a remedy is promised in the course of a day or two, it is now 25 minutes to nine. The Cabin is occupied, with some writing Journals, others playing Cards, and some talking, the latter the Ladies, of course.

It has just been announced that we shall be off again tonight. Should it be so I shall commence my Journal To Morrow in regular form considering the preceeding only

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the introduction, I will not call it preface, as generally, they are never read –

Note From the monotonous character of our passage down Channel, alternate winds and Calms the former always foul there is nothing worthy of being written. We made the Start Lighthouse about 8 o Clock on Sunday morning Feby 22nd the day was most beautiful, but a tremenduous heavy swell on, which caused the Ship to pitch fearfully towards evening it abated a little at 10 o Clock sealed all the letters for home, in anticipation of the Pilot leaving us in the course of the night but to my great surprise on going on Deck found the Ship bearing up for Plymouth, the Eddystone on our port Bow the Breakwater Lights

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light ahead, on my asking the Pilot if we were going in, received in reply a Sea Grunt, thereupon I determined to remain on Deck the night, in company with the Captain I could See from the Ships course we were going in, and about a ¼ to three Monday morning the Anchor was let go in Plymouth Sound – with a great deal of pleasure I went below and informed Dear Emma I should be able to introduce her to my, our, I should have said, dear friends in Plymouth in the course of a few hours; we were ashr about 6 o Clk and after waiting some little time for the Captain to come on Deck to give us permission to leave the Ship, which he readily granted to all who choose to avail themselves

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of it, we got into Treville St about 9 o Clk, and had we risen from the dead, greater joy could not have been manifested, our dear Aunt Ferguson was not out of Bed, consequently we were introduced to her in her Bedroom, Singular to say, she had just finished her morning devotion, in which we had been earnestly and affectionately prayed for, beleiving we were then, far away on the Mighty ocean, how good is the great God of heaven and earth in giving us such Kind and dear friends, May He make us worthy of His paternal care and love, and give us hearts to be truly thankful for all the mercies, granted to us, up to this moment, we spent the few hours most pleasantly and I trust with profit to our Souls, our dear

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Aunt as we were about to leave fell on her Knees, and in the most earnest manner besought the Almighty to guard and protect us, and land us safely to in our desired haven we left at a quarter to 5 accompanied by Mr & Mrs Mill, and Mrs Beer, the evening breeze wafted to our ears, over the placid water of the Sound, the, Yo heave ho, and that peculiar, clink - clunk - clank - of the Windlass, weighing the Anchor how can I describe my feelings, language is totally inadequate, I now began to feel that I was about to leave old England, my heartstrings were stretched to the cracking point, but in order to avoid giving pain to others, was obliged to put on a cheerful Mien looking around, I recognised Many

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Spots very dear to me, alas! I thought Many years will elapse, ere I see the beautiful scenery of Plymouth Sound again, the beauties of which were greatly enhanced by the golden rays of the setting sun; gilding the hill tops, and covering the whole of earth and sea, with a radiance of heavenly glory, I am not very supers superstitious, but at the Same time, I could not but think that the whole of the circumstances attendant on our Voyage thus far; had been of a character to inspire the largest amount of confidence in the propriety of the Ship; and what is of greater importance that the great and good God of the Universe was guiding and directing us, and was ever near to us – in a few Moments

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More we were alongside, and walking up the accommodation ladder, under the impression that a long time would elapse ere we should set foot on “Terra Firma” again, our dear friends went below and took a hasty glance at our Cabin, which met their entire and cordial approbation, a few Moments More and they were in the Boats speeding away for home again Oh! What memories does that word recall, for the present we had none, save, the Noble Ship Hark-Away which by this time we had begun to consider it, and to love accordingly. Now the Anchor is up, the Sails are being loosened to the fair North East wind, and are passing the western end of the Breakwater

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right out to Sea, the Eddystone shedding its brilliant light over our pathway, the breeze freshens, and the Ship gathers way, but now the word is passed that a Passenger is left behind, how who is it is the cry? Why one of the gentlemen who went ashore in our Boat in the morning; a Mr Hancock, all are anxious – every eye is strained in the direction of the Shore, and a Boat is seen pulling away out under the Citadel she is gradually overhauling us, the Captain takes his Glass and discovers a Man in the Stern, the [indecipherable] nears us and in a few moments it is decided to be the Lost One I must not omit giving the details of this little incident, we made an agreement with the Boatman to

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take us ashore, and to reship us again in the evening for a shilling each, the money to be paid when such reshipment had taken place on separating in Treville St we arranged to meet again on the landing Pier at a quarter to 5 we were there punctually, and in addition waited some little time, but Mr Hancock came not, we were now informed by a Boat just come in from the Sound that the Hark-Away, was under way without loss of time we got into the Boat and away we sped as fast as two say and the Sail could take us, hoping that our friend had gone before us, but the sequel soon undeceived us, (as before intimated), the delay arose from the impression

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that time was made for slaves and not for men, he had been to have his Photograph taken, and a few other little odd jobs, and also lost his way, like people generally do in a hurry, we had departed and what was now to be done, to loose the Passage could not be thought of; well he hired a Boat in desperation and had made up his mind to pay liberally, say, five shillings, or so, all right off they are, but mark, he was now in the fangs of the Barbican Boatmen, perfectly helpless, the Ship by this time some distance outside the Breakwater, and he in the Middle of the Sound, pull away cries he, pay us now, cries the Boatmen; well how much, five shillings? No, our charge is one pound

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I wont’ pay it, well, we will take you back again, back water cries one of them, No, dont’ do that, go on, well then pay us, but I haven’t got so much, beside I am only a poor Man, Cant’ help that; you must pay us now one Sovereign or back you go to Plymouth again where you can hire a Steam Tug to follow your Ship, for about £20 poor Mr Hancock was obliged to down with his Dust, and one shilling in addition as a receiving fee now they pull away like a giant refreshed; (by the bye the refreshment was of a highly stimulating character) and in a short time was on the Poop Deck receiving the congratulations of his fellow passengers on his narrow escape from being left to vegetate

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in Plymouth for a month or two.

By this time, Penlee Point is rapidly passing astern, with the Plymo Pilot, who brought us out, the glorious orb of day is sinking away in the far west; the Crew is busy hoisting the Canvas; the dear, good Captain is pacing the Deck giving orders in a Manner which indicates authority, responsibility, and anxiety the passengers are grouped together in Knots chatting over the events of the day on shore, till at last the shades of evening draw rapidly on the call Bell for Tea tinkles, and all but myself and dear wife hasten below, to partake of the last meal in the sight of old England, we are now alone with the Captain, and

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the Helmsman; in a subdued tone the Skipper gives the order to steer West, South, West, the moments are flying with lightening speed and old England becomes “small by degrees and beautifully less” the night air becomes Keen and we go below, but not without bidding a fond adieu to the land of “the free” after Making our bed, which the hurry of the Morning would not permit us to do, we retired for the night with the conviction that on the Morrow the duties of Keeping this Journal, would have to commence in due and Seamanlike form -

Note Although we have been at Sea 8 days the Voyage is not supposed to have begun, until the communication with the Shore has ceased which took place

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when the Plymouth Pilot left us on Monday evening Feby 23rd 1857

First Day

Tuesday Feby 24th 1857

Weather Fine with a Heavy Swell Ther” 57°
Wind NE Lat Obs 49° 3 N Long Chn 6 ° 4 W Dist from Eddystone 97 miles Ship’s Course S.W.

Rose at 7 o Clk went on Deck the morning fine and beautiful a tremenduous heavy sea rolling in on our lee bow from the South West, which caused the Ship to perform a Motion half pitch, and half roll, or like a boy’s top when nearly done spinning, Dear Emma in Bed very ill, and at times quite delirious, and giving expression to her thoughts in something like the following Where’s Sam, tell I him I want

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Toward evening she, in a great measure recovered and the mind again resumed

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its wonted Serenity, all the Ladies on board very ill in bed, save one, closed the day and retired to Bed for the night

2nd Day

Wednesday Feby 25th

Weather- Fine open Sunny day with a strong breeze Ther” 57°
Wind NE Ships Course SW Lat Acct 47° 43 N Long Acct 7 ° 57 W Course S 43° W Dist 111 miles

After passing a fearful night from the violent rolling of the Ship, turned out at ½ past seven AM, went on Deck and burnt the Idol - breakfasted at 9 with the Fiddle on both Tables, the term Fiddle, is applied to a number of pieces of wood going across the Table at equal distances apart, with two

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rows of Lines passing down the whole length, the use of which is to Keep the Plates and Dishes from rolling off, with all those precautions, taken; did not prevent my cup of Tea from running into my Coat sleeve which was an event not very pleasing; endeavoured to coax Emma to take a small piece of Bacon and a little Tea and was partially successful. The Crew busily engaged in ripping, and setting the “Stun sails,” and Main Royal Do, Was particularly struck with the intense blue of the Water which as evening draws on assumes one of the most cold and cheerless aspects you can

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possibly think of, the Ships course this evening is on a parellel with a line drawn from Ushant on the coast of France to Cape Finistere to clear the latter seventy miles I have this evening made friends with the Chief Mate he has promised to lend me his pricking Chart to take a Tracing and then transfer it to another sheet of paper the object being to keep the Ships Course, Oh! My dear Uncle your ideas as to large Ships not being affected by the Sea is most erroneous we are now being tossed about like a Cockle Shell I am quite satisfied the great

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Brunel Ship will be affected in the same proportion You will excuse I Know the bad writing, and worse composition, when I tell you that the Ship is rolling very badly, the creaking of the Doors and Bulkheads deafening, and the noise of two Card Parties, are all going on Simultaneously – Felt very much tired as the Irishman did, “doing nothing”. Closed the day and turned in The Ship going about 6 Knots

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3rd Day

Thursday Feby 26th

Weather Most Glorious more like April than February Ther 57½ °
Wind NE Ships course SW Lat Obs 45° 53 N Long Chro 10 ° 9 W Course S 39 W Dist 142 miles

After breakfast got out my Tracing Paper, to trace off a Map of the World, which the Chief Officer Kindly lent me for the purpose, found great difficulty in finding a place suitable to do it, the Cabin Table not being wide enough, was obliged to go on Deck, and make a Table of the Skylight, were with the aid of Books and Tin Tacks partially Succeeded – Dear Emma still in Bed very ill, got her on Deck for a very short time in the evening, too ill to remain long. For myself, never was in better health or Spirits, begin to feel

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my waistcoats tight, a very good sign a sailors life agrees with me, Saw two Sails today one to the South, the other to the West, not near enough to speak them – The tinkling of the dinner bell cut short my tracing operations rolled up, to be finished on the Morrow, we are just Sailing along on the edge of the Bay of Biscay, steering for Cape Finistere, I sometimes look down the Hatchway, underneath which is a latent Volcano and endeavour to imagine what would be the result were anything like fire to reach there, I sincerely pray to God, he will avert such an awful calamity – From the little experience I have had

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of Sailors, I believe them to be a set of reckless, ignorant, and careless fellows, it was only this morning I was standing on the Forecastle, when one of them cried out “look here” and held up a piece of rope burnt through from being too near the Galley Flue, fortunately it was seen in time or there is no saying what might have been the result. I most completely fail in realising the fact, that old England has sunk in the Ocean far behind us, and that we are flying on the wings of the wind, to that remote and antipodal part New Zealand, Dear Emma in Bed all day today, but on the whole better, I think, sleep

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is the best antidote for Sea Sickness, we are all very happy and comfortable in the Cabin, and are regularly fused now, all the asperities are worn off – After Tea, went below and laid down on the Bed being very tired, and there slept, with my clothes on ‘till” 4 o Clk in the morning when I woke” up, and went decently to Bed -

4th Day –

Friday Feby 27th

Weather Very Fine and open Sunny Day the Sun most brilliant
Wind E Ships course SW by W Ther 57 1/2° Lat Obs 44° 37 N Long Chro 11° 24 W Course S 35 W Dist 93 miles

Rose at 7 and walked the Deck for some time, the Pipe this morning made me very ill, but not to prevent me from

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doing justice to a good breakfast after which, instead of finishing my Tracing, had to turn out the contents of our Cabin, the reason being that some one had opened the Scuttle of the W.C. and the water had in the most unceremonious manner, paid a most unwelcome morning visit. Dear Emma still in Bed, not well enough to get up, I hope she will be able to do so tomorrow. Nothing of importance has occured to day, Save, the Sailors have been very busy rigging, Royal and Shedding sails, and the Butcher has killed a Sheep Saw the log heaved this evening at 8 Bells, the rate being about 8¼ Knots, the rolling

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is now very fearful, for a landsman Before I go further it may be well to explain how time is Kept at Sea, in the morning the Captain takes an observation, and another at Noon, the day being from Noon to Noon, as soon as the last observation is taken, the Captain Says “Make it eight bells” or twelve o clk then the Watch is called, and they are on duty till” eight bells strikes again, or four o clk, then comes the two, Dog Watches, from 4 to 6 and from 6 to eight, which is the first Watch, that goes on till 8 Bells strikes again or 12 o Clk, then comes, the Middle Watch from 12 to 4 in the morning, then the morning

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Watch from 4 to 8 and so on Time is reckoned by ½ hours commencing with each Watch for instance, it is now 8 o Clk at night, at ½ past 8 the Bell is struck once, or 1 Bell, at 9, twice, or two Bells, ½ past 9, thrice or three Bells 10, 4 times, or 4 Bells, ½ past 10, 5 times, or 5 Bells, 11, 6 times, or 6 Bells, ½ past 11, 7 times or 7 Bells, 12, 8 times, or 8 Bells, then the Watch is called and in a half an hour it will be one Bell again –

Closed the day and turned in about 6 Bells 1st Watch Thermometer has stood about 54°, the Temperature of the North Atlantic Ocean on which we are Sailing, about the Same –

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5th Day

Saturday, Feby 28th

Weather Very fine Fair Wind with a very heavy Sea on the Sea at times washing the Quarter Deck Ther” 58°
Wind E Ship’s course SW by W 10 o Clk p.m. Wind NE Ship’s course SW by W Lat Obs 41° 26 N Long Chro 13° 27 W Course S 25 W Dist 211 miles

No Mistake this morning as to the Ship being on the Ocean, the fearful rolling and pitching of the good Ship Hack-Away, woke me at 4 o Clk, could not lay it out dressed, and went on Deck, the Rate of Sailing 10 Knots, while there, one of the, Port, “Stun sails” was partially carried away – remained a hour and saw the Day Break went below and turned in again Sighted two Schooners, supposed to be Fruit laden from Portugal Dear Emma still very ill, after two or three efforts got her dressed and up on the Poop Deck, where

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she remained about 1½ hours then went below, ill as ever

This afternoon, a report current of a Whale on the Weather Bow it might have been the, Great Sea Serpent, for we have some very curious Fish on board Shortened sail at 10 o Clk P.M., a little rain has fallen for the second time, Since leaving London About 8 o Clk this evening a horrible screaming from the Ladies in the Steerage, arising from the fact that the Sea was coming over the Side, and down the Hatchway on to their Tea Table, the result of which is that we are suffering in common with them, and shall have to turn out the contents of the Cabin

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again on Monday morning; we are very much annoyed with the water but where it comes from no one appears to know – I am sure we cannot be too thankful that we did not come out in the Second Cabin, it is a complete take in, I would advise by all means, anyone coming out to come, either, by the Chief Cabin, or the Steerage, the former if possible; I cannot speak too highly of the attention, dietary, and general good management of our Chief Cabin, there are one or two, disposed to find fault but that will be the case under the most favourable circumstances I feel that my Journal, thus far, is not what it should be, in

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consequence of the mind not being easy, my dear wife being so ill, that being the case, you will excuse its being only the bare details, of what comes under my own eye, as she improves, I trust this Diary will, not only in matter, but style. Closed the day by reading a Portion from “Hawker” a Book, my dear Aunt Ferguson gave us last Monday –

6th Day

Sunday, March 1st

Weather Beautiful morning Soft, balmy breeze and a little Rain
Wind SE Ship’s Course SW Thermometer 54° Lat Acct 39° 18 N Long Acct 15 ° 3 W Course S 30° W Dist 148 miles

Very little sleep last night. Dear Emma being so ill, called the Doctor about 4 o Clk this

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morning, gave me two Aperient Pills and an Injunction to, Keep Quiet what an old Coddle he is, well versed in all, the Knowing shakes of the Head, and the never failing, feeling the Pulse, which in my opinion, forms their stock in trade. At ½ past 10 this morning the Captain with nearly all the Cabin Passengers, assembled to Prayers, in the Cuddy, am sorry to say could not attend, Dear Emma being so ill and having to wait upon her – About 12 spoke. A large Ship on our weather Quarter, she proved to be the “Hougormont,” from London to Calcutta, speaking to a Ship is performed by means of Signal Flags hoisted at the “Gaff,”

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they consist of 15, various in color, size and shape, they are hoisted singly, or two, three, four, five or six together, one above the other, in whatever order, or number they may be hoisted, there is a book containing the answer to the question asked, and vice versa, it appears to require some little experience to perform the operation correctly. I should have said she was and is now about 4 miles distant, and that telescopes are used to read the signals.

Weather 2.40 P.M. The wind has very much abated, the sea gone down and the ship much easier.
While I am writing, 2.40 p.m., in our cabin, 2 ladies in the steerage are singing very nicely “I want home in Heaven”. God give us to feel earnestly that want, and that to feel, will lead

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us to him, who is able and willing to supply every want and necessity of our nature; both, Spiritual and Temporal.

We are now almost becalmed 10 p.m., still the ship rolls.

The dinner today was excellent and a capital dessert, I indulged in the treat of a Bottle of Sherry, but not to drink it all – By dint of persuasian got Emma up to Tea, and to sit (wrapped up warm) on the Deck for some time.

The steerage passengers have this evening been singing Seriatim, all the old Pilton Church Tunes, the musical instrument being an Accordeon, although not performed with

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that nicety we have been accustomed to in Fetter Lane, still the effect was very solemnising, and one could not but realise that the “Almighty” was to be worshipped on the “wide waste of waters” as well as on the dry land, for both are “His” and “He” made them. I should have written above, Fetter Lane, how have our thoughts been occupied this day about those who have fallen down and worshipped there, we have looked up many times to the Photographs, and wondered how you were, and what you were doing of, we have no doubt ourselves have come in for a share of your conversation, thought has been very active, with us, and at this moment can fancy ourselves at 71 Holborn Hill

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Dear Emma is in Bed, she says her feet are very cold, and that I must join her immediately, there is no alternative, but to do so; ere’ I do it must go on Deck to have a pipe in the beautiful Moonlight. So good night, my dearest friends –

7th Day

Monday March 2nd
Weather Very Fine with a strong and fair wind Thermometer 56°
Wind SE Ship’s Course SW Lat Obs 37° 12 N Long Chro 16° 21 W Course S 26° W Dist 141 miles

It has just come to my knowledge that the Steward was reduced to Second Rank last week, in consequence of “Splicing the Main brace” too often, which rendered it necessary for him to take a

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long “Siesta” every day after dinner, the Butcher is also in disgrace for killing a sheep yesterday morning, to save its life, as soon as the Captain saw it he ordered it to be committed to the deep immediately, and with him “No sooner said than done”, no doubt the porpoises in the vicinity had a head of fresh Mutton.

At Noon a large piece of wreck went by on our Port Side, which gave rise to thoughts and reflections, not of the most pleasing character. Gibraltar is now abreast of us, on our Port Quarter, and a rumour has gone the rounds of the Poop that we shall sight Madeira

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tomorrow evening, we begin to feel that we are going into a warm climate, at this hour / Bell/ Watch, the Thermometer in our Cabin stands at 61° The range of the Thermometer in the Margin is the one belonging to the Ship and fixed on Deck.

Dear Emma has been on Deck for some time today, but has come below worse than ever, so ill in fact that I could not get her down to her own Cabin; she is now, while I am writing, up stairs, on the Captain’s Couch, waited on by very kind people. Our fresh Beef every morning “becomes small by degrees and beautifully cut” – after that is all gone I suppose the Cabin

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Maws will be stuffed with Fresh Pork, there being a rather large number of the Porsine species on board, at present they are an abomination, stinking all day and grunting all night. Roast Goose for the first time today, was asked to carve it by the Chief Officer, am happy to say pleased myself with the performance.

After dinner, the Boatswain harpooned a Porpoise, but unfortunately the harpoon broke, and the gentleman made his escape, taking nearly the whole of the instrument with him. I must add our Band are on Deck playing the most favourite airs it is really a most glorious night

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The Log has just been thrown, time 4 Bells, 1st Watch or 10 o Clk P.M., and we are now going about 9 Knots.

Have got Dear Emma down stairs undressed her and just p ut her to bed, very ill indeed.

8th Day

Tuesday, March 3rd

Weather Clear, open, mild, sunny day, the sun most brilliant Thermom. 60 deg. Temp. ocean 60 deg. Wind S.E., smart breeze
Ship’s course S.W. Lat Obs 34° 24 N Long Chro 18 ° 10 W Course S.25 W Dist 190 miles

Nothing has occurred today worthy of being mentioned, excepting the cry of Porpoises, on the weather bow, about 11 o Clk, the Boatswain harpooned one, but in hoisting it on Deck the Harpoon let go its hold and the monster made off, only to be eaten by his companions

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It appears from a yarn I had with the Boatswain this morning that Porpoises in their habits very much resemble a herd of Deer; should one happen to be wounded the others hunt him to the death and finally make a meal of him.

Just before dinner the cry again rose as before, I hastened on to the Forecastle and looking over the Bows saw the Boatswain perched out on the Dolphin Striker harpoon in hand ready to make a throw, but they were not to be so easily struck, after making a few gambols they made off and was not seen again for the day.

Dear Emma is no better, got her up on Deck for a short time this evening but after a short stay, went below

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worse than when she came up. Vomiting very badly; time begins to hang heavily on the hands of some of the Passengers, new games are being invented every day, this afternoon, Quoits were being played on the Poop Deck, the Quoits are made of rope.

I cannot help mentioning here, again, the great kindness of the Captain. Anything in the ship is placed at our command, during the illness of Dear Emma – all the passengers are most anxious to contribute something towards her comfort, she has suffered more than any of them. I suppose it is a most horrible sensation, and very soon lays the strongest prostrate -

From a rough

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calculation I made this morning we are, or would be at Noon, about 1260 miles from Plymouth.

9th Day

Wednesday, March 4th

Weather One of the finest mornings and days I ever saw. The wind variable and light. Thermom. 62° Temp. Ocean 62°
Wind NW by W Lat 32° Long 19° Ship’s course SW within a point or so Lat Acct 32° 16 N Long Acct 19 28 W Course S.27 W Dist 145 miles

Much the same as yesterday, nothing much but the daily routine of eating, a good breakfast of beefsteak, fish, Hashed meal, hob, rolls and tea or coffee, then a saunter on deck till Luncheon, which consists of Biscuits and water, and then a first rate dinner, made up of Roast Beef and Boiled do. Roast and Boiled Mutton, Poultry, and Pastry, then for Tea, Bread

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Biscuits and Butter, then comes “Liberty Hall” do as you like – Card playing, Dominoes, Chips and Drafts, till bed time, which takes place at ½ past 10 and all lights must be put out at 11. ¼ to 10 P.M. we have just come up with a Schooner, about a mile to windward, Fruit laden, we can smell the Oranges strongly.

Dear Emma still very ill, not anything better, nothing will remain on the stomach, should my business prove a failure in Auckland there will be no difficulty in my turning “Housemaid” to a single lady. I am now become a most expert Bed Maker to say nothing of the other duties attached to that domestic calling. We have

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today renounced all sacks and carpets on our cabin floor, for we find they only harbour dirt, and retain the damp. To relieve the tedium of this dry detail of daily occurrence, I propose giving you the names and characteristics of my fellow Cabin Passengers, you must not expect to have them hit off in the masterly style of a Dickens or a Thackeray, but I will do my best and no man can do better than his best; without further preface I will begin with No. 1 Captain Stephens the commander of the Ship Hark-Away – to say he is a perfect gentleman would not be enough, in him are combined all the great moral, kind and fatherly feelings, one who makes it his constant case to make his Shipmates pro tem

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happy and comfortable, in short he is a Second “Man of Ross” and an excellent Carver of Poultry. No. 2 is Mr. Simpson the Chief Officer, a nice, good tempered, kind, gentlemanly little fellow, with one fault, viz. he is generally behind hand in his place at the head of our table, not much to say, for himself, and last though not least, a horrid bad carver, the business he has to do in the Poultry line I am obliged to do for him. No. 3 is our Medicus, name unknown. He is a man past middle life, with very large grey whiskers and a good, roomy Proboscis, in which he stows away large quantities of Snuff, looks very wise and knowing, and paces the Poop Deck in a large blue cloak or sits in the Cabin reading, on the

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whole is a very gentlemanly good man rumour says he is a Roman Catholic. I cannot describe his surgery, for that I have not seen, nor do I think he knows where to find it himself some times, if we may judge from the difficulty he has to find the boxes containing his Nostrums and Panaceas, his Consulting Room is on the Port side under the steps leading to the Poop, hours of attendance from 10 to 5 min past A.M. His address is No. 1 Port Side next the water closet. No. 4 is Mr. Brown the Second Mate, a very nice young man, very willing to oblige anyone in any way or with anything, affable and courteous to all and takes his cap off the moment his foot is over the threshold of the Cabin Door, takes his meals very quietly and is off to duty as soon as they are finished

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Having done with the Officers I will now commence with the others, beginning with our Table, and the gentleman and his wife who sit opposite to us, Nos. 5 and 6 is Mr and Mrs Jones, the former is a jolly son of “Erin” with a Welch cognomen, he is a real “Broth of a Boy” very lavish in his condemnation of Ibillis, Gann & Co. for not allowing him more water to wash his precious face and hands with; should his opinion be a correct one, there is not a verier set of rogues in London, the latter is a very kind and agreeable Lady, but has suffered very much from the sickness . They live on the opposite side of the street.
No. 2 next the Mr. C.

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10th Day

Thursday March 5th

Weather Very Fine, beautiful Day Therm 62° Temp. Ocean 62° Lat Obs 30° 26 N Long Chro 19° 6 W Course S 10° E Dist 112 miles

Great dearth of News, nothing to report but the usual duties of a Ship at Sea, walking Decks, in the Morning, Making, shortening, and trimming Sails, Striking Bells, eating, drinking, lounging & Sleeping. I have not sufficiently got over the Novelty of being on a long Voyage as to sit down to read and Study, there is something to distract the Mind, almost every moment. I am very happy to be able to Say that Dear Emma, got up to dinner to day, she took a Mutton Chop in the morning with Roast Goose and Plum

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Tart, washed down and Kept there with “Old Port” for dinner I hope in the course of a day or so all will be well again We have now most delightful Moonlight nights, and glorious Sunny days This evening a foul wind has set in upon us

11th Day

Friday, March 6th

Weather Fine Day with a fresh Breeze but dead against us
Lat Obs 29° 40 N Long Chro 19 12 W Course S.7° W Dist 47 miles

I must begin to day, by correcting yesterday’s report, that portion refering to Dear Emma’s dinner should have been to day, however you must substitute, for that Dear Emma in Bed all day

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I have nothing else to say, save that it is now nearly 6 Bells P.M. and time to turn in so “good night”

12th Day

Saturday, March 7th

Weather Squally Morning with heavy showers of Rain 11 A.M. cleared up a very fine Day Thermom in Cabin nearly 70°
Lat Obs 28° 42 N Long Chro 19° 54 W Course S.33 W. Dist 69 miles

Rose at ½ past seven, went on Deck and saw a Sail, ahead, on the Lee Bow, Hull Down, gradually over-hauled her, and at about 2 P.M. Spoke her, she was the “True Briton” from London to Port Philip, 17 Days out from the Lizard, she left Plymouth a week before us, consequently we have beat her by that time; 1 Bell 1st Watch we are rapidly going ahead of her

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and in all probability she will be far behind, if not out of sight by daylight tomorrow morning

½ past 2, P.M. saw a Whale blowing on our Lee Quarter, a very pretty sight, imagine a beautiful fountain in full play, and you have a pretty accurate idea of its appearance. The Laundry Man brought aft our washing, this morning, and what do you think he charged per Dozen; only 3/s, I told him he should have the whole of the things for what the washing would come to, you must bear in mind they were only rough dry, his reply was, the usual charge is 5/s but that he had favoured us, “save me from my friends” thought I in order to prevent our names from

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being bandied about among the Crew the money was paid, with the intimation that his services would not be required again for the remainder of the Voyage Mr Brown the second Mate has Kindly lent me his Log, to assist me in posting up my own, that is so far as the Latitude and Longitude is concerned also the Ships Course, and the distance run every 24 hours, or from Noon to Noon

Dear Emma has been in Bed all day she has been crying very much and still is, but what for, I don’t Know. As there is nothing more of importance to add, will again resume my description of my fellow passengers it commences with No 7 and Mr Acland, a young man about 25 years of age, is being sent out

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with 2 others to establish a Branch of the Oriental Bank in Auckland. rather a curious young fellow, with a remarkable cranium, quite “Au Fait” to all the games contained in “Hoyle”, nothing comes amiss to him. No. 8 is Mr Hanley a vey aimable Young Man, brought up in the Navy can make Steeple Chasing Cards in a very handsome manner, what his business in to Auckland I don’t Know No 9 is Mr Johnston a very gentlemanly young fellow business, profession, or object, unknown Nos. 10 and 11 are the writer and his wife the Little Em’ whose persons, habits, profession and objects, are well Known to you Nos. 12 and 13 are Mrs Parker and Infant, a young Widow

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emigrating alone, and having no friends in Auckland, the “Bairn” is a complete Bore always commences to cry at Meal Times, my dear Friends never come out in a ship where there is a blessed Baby, if you have any regard for your Nocturnal repose of Matinal dosings, her Cabin is next door, I wish it had been in the next Ship

No. 14 Mr Hancock a tradesman from Bath, I don’t think (upon acquaintance) he has got “all his change” a man easily led away, and is the same refered to on the occasion of our leaving Plymouth. He leaves a wife and four children at home, he is going out to look about and then come again for them in a twelvemonth or so.

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13th Day

Sunday, March 8th

Weather A Glorious Day The Sun becoming very hot Thermr 68° Wind W.N.W. Ship’s Course S.W. Lat Obs. 26° 43 N Long Chro 20 19 W Course S.11° W. Dist 121 miles

To day has been Sunday, I woke this morning and immediately looked out of the Window, and the very Ocean, appeared to be conscious that the Day of Sacred Rest had come, it had laid aside all its turbulence and agitation, and its bosom was only disturbed by gentle ripples, and soft undulating swells, as the morning advanced there was only one thing wanting to complete the, scene, that fancy was so busy in the endeavour to realise it was the Sound of the “Church Going Bells”, a few Trees, and a little Vegetation, what a relief to

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the eye that has only seen Sea and Sky for three weeks The very Ship, Commander, Officers, Crew and Passengers, all spoke out, and acknowledged, by their dress and Mien, that this was the Sabbath Day At ½ past ten Prayers were read in the Cabin, but I could not attend being engaged assisting Dear Emma to dress, she has been on Deck all the day, with the exception of dinner time, she is better to night but still very sick at times This evening I lighted the Pipe and withdrew to the extremity of the Ship Aft, and there under the silvery rays of Cynthia, roamed oer’ the whole of Fetter Lane, the old familiar faces I saw again in their wonted places, the well

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known broad shoulders of one very dear to us, I recognised as in times gone by, and the familiar form of his equally beloved partner, and dear little Emily, in the Pulpit was a well remembered face and voice scattering the bread of life to all then I walked a little way, and pulled a Bell, and the Door was opened, I walked up stairs, and there was the wearied form of the Preacher, reclining on the Sofa a conversation was going on, the gist of which was, the whereabouts, the health, and the weather two individuals closely connected with them were experiencing on the Mighty Deep, then I heard the prayer ascending on high to Him, who holds the Waters in the hollow of

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His hand, that He would protect, and give His angels charge concerning them, that no harm or evil came near them, to which all joined in a hearty Amen The reverie was broken by the tinkling of the Tea Bell at ½ past six (with us) eight with you, my legs ache very much and feel as tired as though I had walked 30 miles to day I will therefore conclude by saying Good Night Good Night

14th Day

Monday, March 9th

Weather Very fine clear, open day, the Sun, very warm Thermr 67 ½° Wind Variable from N to NW Ship’s Course S>W. Lab Obs 25° 11 N Long Chro 21° 10 W Course S.27° W Dist 103 miles

News of any Kind, is at a premium, I don’t Know of a single incident

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worth recording, there is one, Dear Emma has been on Deck all day, but the seasoning process goes on very slowly. Turned out the contents of the Cabin and had the floor washed and scraped dry, was able to keep the Scuttle open some hours, but our next door Neighbour Mrs. Parker forgetful of the incontinency of old Ocean, omitted to close her’s in proper time, and therefore He walked in and thoroughly drenched all her bedding, and in consequence has been obliged to take lodgings, on the opposite side of the Sheet for a Night The gentlemen are beginning to don their hot weather clothing, and very well they look in it The current amusements are Quoits by day, Cards by Night

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I essayed this evening to sound two or three, as to the advisability of instituting an, Improvement Society, as a pleasing relief to the Monotony of Card Playing, I am Sorry to say the idea was rather unfavourably received, there is a most discordant jumble of Mind on board, I cannot as yet find one congenial mind with My own By way of filling up this sheet, I will commence with No. 15, Passenger, Mr Battersby a good six foot, out of his shoes red hair and florid complexion of Irish extraction, with a dash of the “Brogue” profession or object unknown Nos. 16, 17 and 18 are, Mr and Mrs Lewis, and Son the former a very easy going Coach

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very sedate, in all his movements comes on Deck very regular everying morning at 7 Bells, lays hold of a rope and looks very timidly out to Sea, Sniffs the morning breeze, takes a pinch of Snuff, and then passes. The Englishman’s compliment, I may add, that he has renounced the Razor, and is at present a “pretty beauty”, his trade, I believe is that of a Jeweller and lately resident at Bath Mrs Lewis is a very nice lady like person, she has kept an Establishment for Young Ladies in the same City Master Do. is a very kind obliging boy, and thinks nothing a trouble. Nos 19, 20, 21, & 22 consists of a party of four, Mr & Mrs Griffiths, and two Miss Brownlows, the two latter, sisters of Mrs G, and I

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should think is going out to Auckland on a Speculation their names are Daisy, and Flossy, Mr Griffiths left New Zealand about two years ago, and is now returning with his new made wife, of the three Ladies I may say, there is a strong dash of the [indecipherable] but from force of circumstances are agreeable. Nos 23, 24, and 25 are Captain and Mrs Mariss, and Son, the Captn is a very quiet, gentlemanly, thin, pale man, with a Moustache and is I suppose going out to join his regiment, his wife is a Merry, cheerful, and Kind, little Irish Lady, most affable and courteous to every one, the Boy is a spirity young Hose Bird

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26, 27 and 28 are Mr and Mrs Olivea, and Servant, Mr O, is going out to Auckland in company with two others, Messrs, Ackland & Fraser, to establish a Branch of the “Oriental Bank,” there, Mrs O has suffered very much from Sea sickness, a very pale delicate looking person, they have only been just married, their sevant, Jane, is a nice Kind creature, pays great attention to her Master and Mistress, and Makes herself generally useful to the other Lady passengers – 29 is Mr Draper, a real good hearted, Kind young man, an Officer in the Commissariat, has a good stock of Comforts, and of which Dear Emma has been

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the recepient to rather a large extent, his, easy, Cushioned Chair, and Rug, are always at her command when she goes on Deck, sometimes a Rasher of Bacon, Oranges, Marmalade, Wine, in short, anything he has is always at her service, he is a stout, portly, fellow, for his age, possessing a large fund of ready wit, and good temper, dresses handsomely, has a good assortment of Meerchoum Pipes, the best Cabin in the Ship and is Known by the “soubriequet” of the “Great Dra-pier” – 30 is the number belonging to Mr Cranford, a real, unadulterated, Devonshire dumpling, with a Moustache of the Colour called Red

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a good smoker, with a most singular laugh, it appears to me, to come from his throat in lumps, and very guttral, occupation, or object, unknown –

l5th Day

Tuesday, March 10th

Very Find open Sunny weather Thermr 65 Deg Do in Cabin 70 Deg

We have this day just crossed the Tropic of Cancer, and the beautiful days and nights attest the fact, we have a find, fresh, smart breeze, the North East Trades, the Botswain terms it the robbery wind, in, that it shortens the Voyage and thereby reduces their number of months out, and their wages

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in the same proportion, we are now changing the Sails unbending the best, and rebending the worst, the former being held in reserve for bad weather, that will be I suppose in rounding the Cape – Dear Emma has been on Deck all day, but very ill, nothing will remain on the stomach but Port Wine, about the worst thing she can take, according to the Captain’s account – I have this day put on my hot weather clothing, and find it very comfortable, it is now becoming fashionable to wear white Ducks from the Captain down to the Cabin Boy – I have also done a little to my

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Tracing, how I longed for one of the Tables in St James’s Square it is very trying to do anything of the Kind on Ship board, every thing rolling and pitching about, just as you think there will be a steady Moment, and you are about to draw a line, the “Lurch” comes, and away you go down to Leeward, Tracing, Chart, and all the Caboose, Mr Hancock must not take the production, as a fair sample of my abilities in that line, it is the best I can do under the circumstances, on the contrary I think he will be somewhat pleased to find his pupil making such progress –

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16th Day

Wednesday, March 11th

Weather Fine Day with a Strong Breeze Squally towards evening 9 o Clk P.M. A very heavy Sea on, and the Ship rolling dreadfully Thermr 66 Deg Cabin Do 71 Deg

This morning we were very much alarmed, by a sound, exactly like a piece of Spruce deal burning, a sharp cracking noise, I leapt out of bed, slipped on my Trousers, and went in Search, it proved to be the lower Hoop of the Wind Sail flapping about against the Steps over our latent Volcano, went on Deck and saw the day break, took a salt water bath, and shortly after, breakfast, Did a little to my Tracing, I hope to finish it to morrow, should the Ship be a little easier Dear Emma has been in bed

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all day, very ill, her appetite one of the most fastidious character asking for all those things, the most difficult to procure, to day its been Sheep’s Trotters and Lemonade, was successful in the former, not the latter, but a very good substitute, Lime juice, mixed with water, and sweetened.

17th Day

Thursday, March 12th

Weather Glorious, with a stiff North Easter Thermr 70½ Deg

We have beautiful weather with a rare strong breeze, the Captain never Knew the North East Trades blow so strongly, our average rate of speed has been about 9½

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Knots per hour, Dear Emma worse than ever, I have ransacked the Ship for what her appetite craves for, sometimes I am successful other times on the contrary The Sea has been washing the Main Deck, alarming the Dogs, Pigs, and Sheep, effectually but doing no damage –

18th Day

Friday, March 13th

Weather Very Fine with a strong breeze nearly half a Gale Thermr 72½ deg.

Nothing particular to day, except that nearly all the Ladies are in Bed very ill, the Ship has been rolling and pitching fearfully all Night, she appears to be like a rampant Steed

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that has been goaded and spurred into going, and at last has become impatient of the “Bit,” and wants to be off at random, but no, there is a man turning a wheel, his gaze being fixed on her wings, and two small round bits of card with letters on them, alternately which correctly indicates her right course, whatever her desire may be to the contrary, she is good tempered with all, never complains of being tired, all she wants is wind, and Canvass and the she goes forging along and sending the foam astern like two great sheets – This Morning about 2 A.M. the Chief Mate was on Deck and all

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at once a large bird came fluttering over his head, and finally dropped into his arms, it was a beautiful tame pigeon, which he supposed had come from the Cape de Verd Islands, which we were then abreast of, distant about 50 Miles – Flying Fish are now very abundant, one flew on board this morning, they are very interesting looking things, they rise out of the water and skim along the surface just like Swallows do in England, their flight is quite as rapid and equally eccentric they are not very large, the head is rather blunt, the body long and taper, with the wings just behind the Gills –

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Dear Emma in bed all day very ill, no better – I have suffered very much all the day from sore throat I thought I should have been almost choked, “old Medicus” gave me three Sudorific Powders, [indecipherable] a very wise shake of the head, and an assurance that I should be better in the morning –

19th Day

Saturday March 14th

Weather Find and very hot Thermr in Cabin 73 or Summer Heat

Old Medicus was right, I was better this Morning, but whether the credit is due to his Sudorific’s I dont’ Know, - One month to day has elapsed, since we left

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Thermr 75 Deg

London, I can scarcely believe it, time has sped away with rapid flight, if it continues to do so we shall soon be in Auckland – Dear Emma has been on Deck nearly all day, I had the Bed brought up and she has been very comfortable her appetite is a very difficult Matter to please, it is more than I, Steward, or Cook, can do The wind has abated very much the Ship is much easier, which has enabled me to post up My Journal from Wednesday; it is impossible to write when you are being tossed about from Starboard to Port and Port to Starboard, with an occasional jerk from Aft to Forward and

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Vice Versa, I am very sorry for it as some very nice thoughts have come and gone without being noted, to be able to write properly on board Ship, a person wants to be hung in Gimbals – like the Compasses, No Matter what position the Ship is in you preserve your equilibrium. Just now I could give a glass of Rum or Gin for a halfpint of cold spring water, we are being put on an allowance two cups of Tea at Breakfast Do Tea Time, and no more, to Know the value of water you must be in the Tropics, on a long voyage, outward bound, it then acquires a relish, attainable No where else that I Know of –

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- 20th Day –

Sunday, March 15th

Weather Very hot, the Sun very clear and vivid Thermomer 70 Deg

The day has again come round and here we are making but very little progress, the strong North East Trades have left us, and just now there is nothing but light baffling airs, not sufficient to Keep the sails distended, but let them flap against the rigging. Prayers was read at the usual time, but I did not attend having domestic duties to attend to in the shape of getting a bath ready, making the bed &c. &c Dear Emma still as ill as she can be, with no prospect of being any better for the residue

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of the Voyage, we begin to feel the want of a little cold Spring Water Never did I Know its real value before, everything is warm now.

21st Day

Monday, March 16th

Weather Very hot, Tropical Weather almost a calm Thermr 77½ Deg

News is really becoming a very scarce article, there are not any Births Deaths or Marriages, to enliven the scene, we have observed of late, a good deal of preparatory attraction, and repulsion, on the part of one young lady we have with us toward the latter, but I cannot say what the end will be, if men were only wise, well, it was so in the beginning, and ever

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will be the same –

I had almost forgotten to day that a grand Ball took place this evening at ½ past seven, on the Main Deck of the good Ship Hark-Away, notice was given last week that such an event would take place on Wednesday last, but the roughness of the weather rendered it imperative on the Stewards with the Committee to post-pone it, the weather having Moderated on Sunday and this Morning it was decided to hold it in the evening as aforesaid The evening was most propitious, and the “elite” of our fashionable world were present, the Programme consisted of Waltzes, & Quadrilles varied with Sentimental and

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Comic Songs, one of the latter was Charles’s favourite, “Im’ not Myself at all”, we had not any of the usual appendages of a Ball Room such as Chandeliers, or handsome Gas Fittings, but the gallant Captn ever anxious to contribute to the comfort of his passengers gave orders for a large Ship Lamp to be lighted and hung to the Mainmast, which served to light up the Motley Scene, on one side was a most Miscellaneous company, consisting of the Steerage and intermediate passengers, and that portion of the Crew not on duty on the other, the “Nobs , who went through the [indecipherable] dance in figures belonging to the “Lancers Quadrille”

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and other fashionable dances of the day, a “quantum sufficit” of Sherry and water, and Bottled Ale, was drank, and which in My opinion only served to make what was hot, hotter, Dear Emma and I were spectators from the Poop Deck, and enjoyed the evening very much, from the simple fact of its being a change, in the Monotonous every day life on board Ship, at 8 Bells, first watch, the evenings amusement terminated, and the company separated, Some to retire to their overheated Cabins others to take up their nights lodging on the Deck, within the last two or three Nights we have had some very unpleasant Neighbours, taking up their temporary residence

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next door to us, it is a race of animals with long tails, and of the most revolting appearance, they are Known pretty well all over the World by the name of Rats, I have mentally vowed vengance, should they ever afford me the opportunity I have adopted the Motto “Lex Talionis”

22nd Day

Tuesday, March 17th

Weather The Sun scorching hot, and very little wind Thermr 79 Deg

Woke this morning very little refreshed by sleep, turned out and went into the head of the Ship to bathe, that feat is performed by your getting into the grating, and another person pumps some two or

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three pails, full of water, and pours it over you, it is a most refreshing thing in the Tropics it wakes you up to vigour and activity and imparts a very large amount of elasticity for Some hours, then comes that lassitude, which to me is highly depressing, we sighted a Ship to Leeward to day the distance too great to speak. A petition from Neptune, has been hung up in the Cabin to day, intimating that the smallest donation will be thankfully received by His Imperial and Marine Majesty, we expect a personal visit in the course of a Nautical Day or two, this morning at about

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2 Bells or 5 o Clk, the Second officer, Mr Brown, found it necessary to preserve the discipline of the ship, to administer a rather strong dose of Rope’s end, on our Butcher, the offence being insolence, resulting from not turning out and attending to his duties at the proper time Dear Emma came on Deck about 12 o Clk and remained until 9 P.M. very ill all the time No prospect of convalescence for the remainder of the Voyage

Nil Desperandum

- - - - - - - - - - -

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- 23rd Day –

Wednesday, March 18th

Weather Hot Hot piping Hot and little or no wind Therr 81 °

The weather has become almost unbearable, water, is at a great premium, it is now a common thing to hear, the question, “Jones,” got any water, No, “Hancock”, have you a glass of water to give away “No, by “Guns” I havent’, what a nuisance it is to have no water, so it goes on throughout the day, questions and responses in the above style, - This evening at Tea time, the Ship was hailed, and a Messenger from His Imperial Majesty of the Seas, was announced, and he delivered into the hands of the

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Captain, an autograph letter requesting him to have all his (Neptune’s) children ready by the following Morning 9 o Clk at which hour he would be on board to receive them, and to See that the operation of “Shaving” was duly performed. The Messenger took his departure in the half of a Tar Barrel, lighted and in full blaze, prior to the final parting for the night a conversation took place between the Chief Officer and him, in the presence, and hearing, of all the passengers who were crowding the Main, and Poop Decks, as to the weather &c. concluding with the remark that he thought we should have some rain, he was quite right, for

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in a twinkling down it came in torrents, from out the rigging and Tops, drenching all who had the honour of a stand on the Main Deck, to the great amusement of those on the Poop, of course the Rain was ready made, and taken up there by some of the Crew; the evening was very calm and we saw the Boat astern for 3 hours – This afternoon we caught a small Shark about 2 ft long with a hook baited with a piece of Pork, there were two of them and their attendant, the Pilot Fish, a small, pretty little thing that always swims along a short space above and before them, they were very

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shy for some time, but at last the temptation became too great for the little one; he darted up to it, rolled over on his side, and gobbled down his destruction foe in less time than I have taken to write it he was in the hands of the Man who was steering, having an incision made in his lower jaw, for the purpose of extracting the fatal hook, the most striking features in their formation, is the lower jaw and the tail, the former opens, just underneath their shoulders, and some distance from the point of the nose, which renders it impossible for them to bite without rolling over on their side, the latter consists in the

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great length of the upper half and the extreme shortness of the lower, the back is a dark dull color the belly light, there are small sucking fish found adhereing to their backs, the, “Remora” a little thing very like a Leech, - Dear Emma is no better, but rather worse, the stomach rejects everything –

24th Day

Thursday, March 19th

Weather Very hot squally clouds in the distance Ther 82½ deg;

On going to take my bath this morning, I was surprised to see the alacrity with which the brooms and scrubbing brushes, were doing their work, when all at once I was

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reminded that this was to be the grand gala day; everything in fact, wore a sort of holiday aspect, the boatswain with some others were busily engaged erecting, or rather suspending a large sail by the Corners, and partially filling it with water, on the starboard Main deck, then the carpenter’s bench was brought, above which just on the level with the edge of the Sail, was a pole lashed, which was to serve the purpose of a Seat a flight of steps, led from the deck on to the bench, which was to serve for a platform, and to complete the whole a board was nailed to a pole, on which was written in Chalk that this was Neptune’s shaving shop, free gratis and

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for nothing, as soon as six bells was struck, all communication with the fore part of the ship was interdicted, on pain of being taken into custody and dealt with according to ancient usage, all persons therefore having any regard for their Chins and olfactory organs, wisely avoided incurring the stinking penalty ere’ this I should have said that permission had been asked of the skipper to perform the operation, which he granted, with the condition, that they should not interfere with any of the passengers, except they were agreeable, which was agreed to the approaching ceremony formed the topic of conversation

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during breakfast, as to who was to be operated on, and who was not, as soon as the meal was over every one hastened on deck, anxious to witness the whole of the proceedings, I went below to bring up Emma, but was sorry to find her too ill to come up; anxious to be in possession of all the facts to insert in this Journal, I returned and in a few Moments, a loud cheer forward, announced to those aft that all was ready, yes, here they come, Neptune and his wife Amphitrite, sealed in a Car side by side, and drawn by a posse of seamen, at the foot of the steps leading to the Poop the equipage halts

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and his Majesty descends, and walks up the steps at the top of which stands the Captain ready to receive him, after the exchanging of civilities and courtisies, incident to royalty his Majesty prepares to descend ere’ this, in the person of the ocean King, I have recognised our boatswain, dressed as follows, his feet and legs encased in a pair of Sea Boots reaching half way up the thigh, with a pair of drawers to cover the residue up to the waist, on his head is a large wig made of Manilla rope, (an excellent imitation of flaxen hair) the curls of which descend to the top of his boots, the whole surmounted

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with a Tin Crown, and in his right-hand a trident, on the prongs of which is the young Shark, caught the evening before, I cannot say much of Amphitrite she was a very bad specimen of female royalty, that is, if land and Marine Sovereigns are anything analogous to each other, they now take their seats in the gunwale close to the Shop and operations commence; on the platform stands the “Shaver”, and his “Latherer”, and the Doctor with his Medicine Chest, the constables stand round with their slaves, Neptune holds in his hand a list of names of those to be operated on, and from it he calls the name of the first

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child, a sturdy sailor youth he makes his appearance, led blindfold, he ascends the steps and h is seated on the pole, with his speaking trumpet Neptune asks his name, and where he comes from on his opening his mouth the Tar brush is poked into his mouth, and then to recover him from the fit of spitting and sneezing the Doctor administers a vile dose, and at the same time holds a smelling bottle to his nose, the scent is not “Preston salts”, but a few needle points passed through the Cork the Tyro is requested to sniff and in his endeavour to do so bobs his nose against the Needle points, he is now lathered

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and the “Shaver” commences to scrape off the vile compound with his Iron hoop Razor, with the edge jagged, as the operation goes on the Razor is wiped in the mouth of the person being shaved, when it is concluded he is caught up by the heels and turned over into the water, where two men are waiting to receive him and give him a good ducking and let him get away as best he can, such is the ceremony of shaving on crossing the “Line” after it is all over Neptune and his wife resume their seats in the state carriage and is drawn foreward, amid the hurrahs of Crew and passengers –

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one word, as to the carriage, it is made out of one of the Gun carriages, with three hoops bent over it for a head and the covering is the British Ensign as soon as all was over the crew dined, and were preparing to enjoy the evening, the Cabin passengers about half way through their dinner, when one of those squalls peculiar to those latitudes burst over us with tremendous fury; what a scene, the Moment the Ship felt it she heeled over, and away went Dishes, Glasses, and Bottles with their contents to Leeward, people were scrambling for their dinners, inside, and the Sailors, were bawling and calling outside, amid such

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torrents of rain as is only seen in the Tropics, it came down literally in Sluices; such a scene of confusion it was never my lot to witness before, all the passengers and crew were busy catching the rain in every description of Vessel from the humble Tin Pannikin to the more aristocratic japaned Bath, its duration was about a half an hour, and then a calm, in the midst of the confusion a message reached me, desiring my presence in the tween’ decks, I hastened below and there to my great sorrow found Dear Emma worse than ever, I sent for the Doctor and he advised

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her speedy removal to the Deck the Captain immediately ordered a tent to be rigged over the foremost Skylights, and then sent Men to bring up the Bed, which being done I took her up in my arms and carried her on Deck, the change was soon perceptible, in the diminution of heat, and oppression of the spirits I sat up all night, filled with the deepest anxiety, which was not at all lessened about three o Clk in the morning when another squall of wind and rain came as violent as the first, with the aid of Rugs Kindly lent and my Oil skin, managed to keep all pretty dry ---

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25th Day

Friday, March 20th

Weather – Very fine but excessively sultry Ther 82½ deg

Daybreak came and with it no improvement in Dear Emma nothing would remain on the stomach, passed a most miserable day, one of the Steerage passengers a Mrs Roberts, has been very Kind and attentive, she comes from Cornwall and is going out to her husband, in company of a brother and sister, Night has arrived and no change for the better, shall have to sit up all night, as the greatest care and attention is Necessary –

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26th Day

Saturday, March 21st

Weather – Very hot with very light winds Ther 82 deg
Lat Obs. 0 deg 49 N, Long Chr 24 deg, 0.7 W
Distance 149 miles

This morning forcibly reminded me of the 29th June 1856, full of anxiety and trouble. I looked out from our tent and saw the sun just rising from out the sea, the sight was a most glorious one, how my mind was lifted up beyond the [indecipherable] things of this world to the contemplation of those things which are beyond the skies, the great kindness of our heavenly Father in giving us, his sinful and erring creatures, that resplendent luminary for light and heat

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and the prime source of all our earthly comforts. Turning round, there on that couch lay one reduced almost to the last stage of inaction, moaning most sadly, the mind doubtlessly filled with thoughts of home, parents, brothers, and friends here we were on the deck of a ship, in the middle of the mighty ocean, early in the morning, performing all the duties of the sick chambers. After breakfast the Doctor paid us a visit and he ordered an injection to be administered without delay and a Blister to the pit of the stomach, the sufferings were very great, throughout

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the day, with no cessation at nightfall, laid down on the deck for an hour or two and then sat up all night, the Captain has been very kind in making the tent for us, out of sails and Ensigns, which imparts an amount of grandeur to our deck residence, night has again come and Dear Emma is no better –

27th Day

Sunday, March 22nd

Weather – Beautiful but very hot Ther 82 deg.
Lat Obs 0 deg, 20 S, Long Chro 24 deg 50 W Course S.32 deg W
Dist 82 miles

Dear Emma is no better, I attended prayers this morning in the Cabin, felt very much

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the suitability of the Psalms for the day to people in our situation, but alas! what formality, how little was the solemnity of the scene felt by the Majority of those present it appeared to produce just as much effect as a “tale thrice told” if we may judge from the conversation before and after the Service –

I feel almost exhausted with staying up three nights and the fourth is close at hand, there is plenty of discomfort on board ship to those in health but to be sick and incapable of getting out of bed, is of all things most miserable. We crossed the Line between last night and this morning

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28th Day

Monday, March 23rd

Weather – Most delightful Ther 82 deg
Lat Obs 2 deg 12 S Long Chro 26 deg 30 W Course S 42 deg W
Dist 157 miles

I am almost done up and Dear Emma is no better – another injection has been administered today, it is forbidden to take anything into the stomach, only wash out the mouth with cold water, which is very difficult to lay hold of, we have an assortment of drinks in requisition, Champagne, Port, Ale, Brandy and Raspberry Vinegar, but they are all like “Chip and Porridge” neither good nor harm

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29th Day

Tuesday, March 24th

Weather – Very fine and clear Ther 82 deg
Lat Obs 4 deg 7 S Long Chro 27 deg 34 W Course S 20 deg W
Dist 132 miles

For some days to come I shall have nothing to record, save that Dear Emma is very ill and reduced very much, violent sickness still continuing of a very dark dirty green color

30th Day

Wednesday, March 25th

Weather – Very fine and bright Ther 82 ½ deg
Lat Obs 5 deg 41 S Long Chro 28 deg 54 W Course S 40 deg W
Dist 123 miles

Fully occupied in waiting on the sick, no easy matter on ship[board, you want two or three pair of hands –

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31st Day

Thursday, March 26th

Weather – Fine and clear but very hot Ther 83 deg
Lat Obs 8 deg 55 S Long Chro 30 deg 13 W Course S 22 deg W
Dist 210 miles

Nothing particular today but the routine of a sick chamber, no improvements in the afternoon spoke the American ship Sarah and Elizabeth, from Boston to Madras 30 days out. It was amusing to see the Yankees crowding sail, in order to keep up with us, it was no race, ere the shades of evening closed in, he was a long way astern, report said that he was seen stamping his hat on the poop but I cannot vouch for the truth of it

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32rd Day

Friday March 27th

Weather – Very fine and sultry Ther 82 ½ deg
Lat Obs 12 deg 14 S Long Chro 30 deg 19 W Course S 2 deg W
Dist 203 miles

Nothing to write, Dear Emma is no better, I have not had my clothes off since the 19th, it will be a treat to sleep in a bed again

33rd Day

Saturday March 28th

Weather – Fine and clear Ther 82 deg
Lat Obs 15 deg 15 S Long Chro 30 deg 30 W Course S 7 deg W
Distance 183 miles

Dear Emma no better with no prospect of her being so for the remainder of the voyage

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34th Day

Sunday March 29th

Weather – Beautiful and clear Ther 82 ½ deg
Lat Obs 18 deg 15 S Long Chro 31 deg 00 W Course S 9deg W
Distance 183 miles

Did not attend Prayers this morning, went and laid down for an hour or two. Captain Stephens has intimated the propriety of our going below soon, as the bad weather will be coming on in a day or two –

35th Day

Monday, March 30th

Weather – Very fine Ther 81 ½ deg
Lat Obs 20 deg 58 S, Long Chro 32 deg 00 W Course S 19 deg W
Distance 173 miles

Tonight we moved off the deck, below, such a horrible night, the heat intense and Dear Emma much worse

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36th Day

Tuesday, March 31st

Weather – Fine Ther 81 deg
Lat Obs 23 deg 30 S, Long Chro 31 deg 37 Course S 8 deg E
Dist 154 miles

Oh! what a night have I passed through, the Black Hole of Calcutta could not have been much worse, imagine a poor tired out bellow, stretched out on one or two boxes, being called every five minutes to do something, I begin to wish that the shores of New Zealand would heave in sight, you will doubtless say that wishing is vain

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37th Day

Wednesday, April 1st

Weather – Very fine Moderate breeze Ther 80 deg
Lat Obs 26 deg 13 S Long Chro 30 deg 47 W Course S 16 deg E
Dist 170 miles

Nothing in the shape of news save that we are almost melted in our Cabin, the heat is of the most oppressive character, Dear Emma is still very ill, and as thin as a rush –

38th Day

Thursday, April 2nd

Weather – Fine, Ther 80 deg Lat Acct 29 deg 13 S, Long Acct 28 deg 50 W Course S 30 deg E Dist 208 miles

Today the same as yesterday, a slight change for the better in Dear Emma have not been in bed yet

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39th Day

Friday April 3rd

Weather – Fine with a strong breeze Ther 78 deg
Lab Obs 32 deg 14 S Long Chro 24 deg 48 W Course S. 49 deg E
Distance 276 miles

I am happy to be able to write that Dear Emma is better, the improvement is mainly owing to the use of Coffee, the appetite is very fastidious –

40th Day

Saturday April 4th

Weather – Fine with a breeze Ther 77 deg
Lat Obs 34 deg 30 S Long Chro 21 deg 56 W Course S 47 deg E
Distance 200 miles

The invalid is much better today and is able to eat something, but is very irritable at times, went to bed for the second time since the 19th ult

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41st Day

Sunday April 5th

Weather – A gale from the S.E with rain Ther 76 deg
Lat Acct 36 deg 0.6 S Long Acct 19 deg 33 W Course S 37 deg E
Distance 153 miles

I woke this morning very much better for having slept soundly the first sound I heard was that “a gale was coming on” and that we were to prepare for it. I washed and dressed and went upstairs to breakfast, that bad the other sign “the fiddle” was on the table, however we sat down and commenced operations in the best way we could, when about half over the Captain, who was on Deck, sent a message into the Cabin that a whirlwind was to be

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seen on the weather bow, at that instant there was one sprung up in the Cabin, such a rush; on Deck, men over women, and Ladies over Gentlemen, some in going up the steps, as soon as their heads came up in the current, were instantly stripped of their Caps, which in a twinkling were over the side and floating astern; with the “Cape Hens” “Tinkers” and Mother Cary’s Chickens hovering over them, thinking no doubt they were something to eat, myself and another were the only two who remained to finish their meal.

By this time the ship was pitching and rolling in fine

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style, the wind blowing very fierce, and whistling through the rigging very strongly, it gradually increased in violence, the meanwhile ll hands were busy, shortening sail, until at last we could carry nothing but a close reefed fore top sail [indecipherable]Main and Mizzen, toward evening I t slackened a little, and the ship was put about at about 7 bells or ½ past 11 o’clk heading off from the “Cape”. Dear Emma is much better, her appetite is returning with great force, I hope in a few days she will be able to go on deck again.

Divine Service has not been held today, the weather being too bad.

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42nd Day

Monday, April 6th

Weather fine, with a strong breeze Ther 69 ½ deg
Lat Obs 36 deg 28 S Long Chro 18 deg 40 W Course S 62 deg E
Distance 48 miles

This morning the ship was still, pitching very much but during the night the wind veered round, and became almost fair, the sails are close reefed, but the main sail has been hoisted this afternoon; We amused ourselves this morning by fishing for some of the large sea birds, close under our stern, they consisted of “Tinkers”, “Albatroses”, “Cape Hens” and “Stormy Petrels”; they all appeared to have been “too far north” although we

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saw them in 36 deg 28 South. They would come and strip the hook off the bait and off they are on the wing again. In the afternoon we tried powder and shot with no better success.

Dear Emma is much better today, can eat and drink heartily.

43rd Day

Tuesday, April 7th

Weather – Most splendid, clear and bright day Ther 72 ½ deg
Lat Obs 38 deg 07 S Long Chro 15 deg 57 W Course S 53 deg E
Distance 165 miles

The weather has moderated to such an extent that today we have been making sail again, although the reefs have been shaken out and the “[indecipherable]” sails were set this

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morning after breakfast. The principal topic of conversation at meal times is the probable duration of the residue of the voyage, bets of Cigars and Grog are being made on the event, it really is a monotonous affair, you get up in the morning, go on deck and there it is the same as you left it the night before, sea and sky meeting in the horizon. The eye longs to rest on trees and hedges, grass and fields, memory recalls one spot above all others, that is, Halse Mill Lane, where we used to go nutting on a Saturday afternoon, that in my mind

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[127]

now is one of the most pleasant spots in creation, it is the hedges and water that make it so, what would I give for a quart of cold spring water my very mouth runs with the thought – nectar itself would not [indecipherable] half the relish.

This evening we have witnessed one of the most glorious sunsets; to describe it is impossible, the gorgeous tints, from the lightest gold to the darkest copper, set in a border of Indian Ink, yet with all this radiant beauty, there was a strong prognostic that we shall have a second edition of Sunday –

Dear Emma is still improving.

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44th Day

Wednesday, April 8th

Weather – Fine with a strong breeze Ther 77 ½ deg
Lat Obs 39 deg 04 S Do Acct 39 deg 26 Long Chro 13 deg 0.7 W Do Acct 12 deg 5 Course S 68 deg E Dist 146 miles
Course Acct S 66 deg E Dist 196 miles

The indications for wind given last evening have been fully realised today, it has been blowing very smartly all day. By dint of great exertion we (that is, Mrs Roberts and I) got Dear Emma on deck for a short time, the first time since we went below – I am truly glad to be able to record that a great improvement has taken place in her health, she can now take a hearty meal, of Roast Pork or Mutton.

We are all becoming very anxious to have a glimpse of the promised land.

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45th Day
Thursday, April 9th

Weather – Fine wind not quite so strong Ther 69 ½ °
Lat Obs 39 deg 16 S Long Chro 8 deg 13 W Course S 86 E
Dist 230 miles

The wind has slackened during the nights but the rolling is dreadful, about 4 Bells this morning we were awoke by such a concalenation of sounds as are never heard anywhere, but on board ship, in a high southern latitude, the best idea I can give you is, to imagine yourself in bed awoke, the house has a motion from side to side amounting sometimes to an angle of about 45 deg, all the furniture partakes of the same, the ring and rattle

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of all the Iron and Tin pots in the Kitchen, and the Plates, Dishes and Jugs, joining in one grand discord, then your eyes rest on an uneasy chest or washstand, trying to walk or slide out of doors, and to crown the whole the sea comes and hits our poor devoted ship with such violence that makes her vibrate from stem to stern – which was this morning and in the midst of it all I turned out and went on deck to see what was the matter. Ah! there was the whole matter explained, we had been caught in a squall, the Captain and Mate were giving orders to

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shorten and reef sails, after looking round and seeing that all was right, and not much liking the heavy rain now falling, again went below. Made a report, and then turned in again –

Dear Emma has been in bed all day, she daily improves in appetite, and strength.

Large flocks of sea birds are our constant attendants. Many of them have been shot but we cannot get them as the Captain will not allow a Boat to be lowered for the purpose, considering it fraught with danger to do so. Every day increases our anxiety to see the shores of New Zealand

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46th Day

Friday, April 10th

Weather – Very find Ther 67 deg Lat Obs 39 deg 52 S Long Chro 5 deg 40 W Course S 73 deg E
Dist 125 miles

The rolling motion of our wooden house is almost more than can be tolerated, she is now dipping her “[indecipherable] sail” under water every lurch she makes, it is almost dangerous to be on the Poop, yet with all, it is a most beautiful day. Three Albatroses have been shot today, but all have gone astern to make perhaps a Shark’s dinner.

Dear Emma is much better today, she has made a very pretty mat for our teapot on arrival in Auckland. This is Good Friday, and we had some cold cross buns for breakfast and tea –

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47th Day

Saturday, April 11th

Weather – a Gale with very heavy rain The 69 ½ deg
Lat Acct 41 deg 34 S Long Acct 1deg 47 W Course S 60 deg E
Dist 205 miles

The violent rolling yesterday turned out to be only the prelude to a very heavy gale this morning, we went to bed about 4 Bells and slept soundly until 6 o’clock in the morning, when we were awoke suddenly by a terrific lurch to starboard. I really thought the ship was on her beam ends, in the most speedy manner I got out of bed and after exercising no small amount of patience in dressing succeeded in getting on deck, what a scene did my eyes rest on! The sea was literally running

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mountains high, the rain was falling in torrents, the ship was rolling over almost on her beam ends, the Captain clothed “Cap-a-pie” in oil skin, was shouting to the men on the “Yards”, the wind was blowing, crying and whistling through the rigging like some escaped fiend from the nether regions, with every now and then a heavy sea coming right over the bulwarks. By this time I was almost wet through so I went below, made my report, put on my oil skin and went on deck again in accordance with my natural disposition, always, to look personal danger

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in the face, so as to give timely warning to others; what a grand and sublime sight it is to see the ocean under a gale, nothing coming in opposition can possibly withstand its fury. By this time the breakfast was fiddled on the tables and after a great deal of trouble and mishaps of not a very desirous character got over it, the gale still continued to increase in violence, and the seas were coming over in quicker succession.

I was on my perilous journey from the “Galley” (where I had been to light my “[indecipherable]”) aft when I was obliged to bring up over the [indecipherable], a short lull, and then as far as the

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main hatchway, where another heavy lurch brought me up and while endeavouring to readjust my equilitrium I looked out to port and there I saw a mountainous wave coming broadside on, I tried to make for the Cuddy Door but ere two steps were taken in that direction the sea had attained a height of some 6 or 7 feet above the bulwarks, and in an instant some 3 ft of water was on the deck washing everything before it, the “hulla balou” that came up the hatchway from the “tween decks”, that is our part of the house, was truly deafening. I could not refrain smiling

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in the midst of it all, at the grotesque and ludicrous scenes going on there, one man was knocked down, and was washing about on his back with a stone jar of treacle by his side. The women were screaming, the men were hollowing to each other to do something that was impracticable, the tin pots, plates and dishes, were having a jig and a concert together, then an occasional sea down the hatchway to keep it all fresh and in motion and to complete the harmony of sweet sounds, the boxes in the steerage got adrift and were banging up against

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the Cabin Doors like miniature thunder, the occupants of which were calling out for help, one in particular was calling loudly for “Philip” to come and rescue the boxes from floating away through the Scuppers, but however, everything has an end, so with a gale at Sea.

Toward evening it moderated a trifle and afforded the opportunity of ascertaining the amount of damage done and to talk over the hair breadth escapes of the day just like people do on shore after a fire, we went to bed very much tired and slept soundly. Dear Emma is better and able to eat again –

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48th Day

Sunday, April 12th

Weather – Fine with occasional showers Ther 66 deg
Lat Acct 42 deg 14 S Lat Obs 42 deg 0.6 S Long Acct 0 deg 34 E
Course S 73 deg E Distance 115 miles

The wind has very much abated during the night, almost a calm toward noon. This is weather peculiar to those latitudes, a squall one hour a calm the next.

Dear Emma dressed and attended prayers in the Cabin for the first time since being on board, after which ate three pigs kidneys, bread and a pint of coffee, sat awhile, then went to bed, slept and then had a good dinner at four 8 p.m. the wind is again

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becoming fresh and fair and the men are aloft m=shaking out the reefs and making sail generally to the time and tune of –
“Haul on the Bowline/ Kitty is my darling/ Haul on the Bowline/ Haul – Boys Haul”

49th Day

Monday, April 13th

Weather – A most lovely day, but cold Ther 63 ½ deg
Lat Obs 42 deg 0.7S Long Chro 4 deg 44 E Course East
Dist 186 miles

The wind has been blowing very fresh all day, a fair one, right after us, the thermometer on deck has fallen to 45 deg. nothing of importance has occurred. Dear Emma not quite so well today.

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50th Day

Tuesday, April 14th

Weather – fine but very cold Ther 60 ½ deg Lat Obs 42 deg 0.7 S Long Chro 8 deg 34 C Course East
Dist 171 miles

I have been sitting for some time with the book open before me cogitating, and cogitating what I shall note down herein; matter of any kind is very scarce, it is the old thing over and over again, weat, drink and sleep, sleep, drink and eat, so the day comes and goes. I find from experience that on board ship at sea, is of all places, the very worst for study of any kind. You can do nothing with anything like pleasure or satisfaction to yourself, it might be thought

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a find opportunity for one so disposed to read and study with great and permanent advantage. So it would, provided you could make the sea and ship motionless and set all other disturbing influences at rest, if you remain in your Cabin to read you must burn a Candle all the day, you go up into the Cuddy there you are annoyed with the clatter and clamour of parties, playing Cards, [indecipherable], backgammon and Chess. You retire to the Deck and there are the Sailors, singing, pulling and hauling the ropes and trimming sails. At last you give it up as a bad job, and passively resign

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yourself to compulsory idling, watching the waves undulating backwards and forwards and the sea birds skimming the surface, and occasionally darting down to pick up some morsel that has been thrown overboard. To a contemplative mind the night is the most pleasant season, the solemn silence with which you are surrounded (broken only by the water rushing astern) invites no thoroughly deep thoughts, you look up into the blue vault of heaven and endeavour to count the starry hosts – what a futile effort, for a being possessing only human attributes

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the mind falls back abashed and humbled, exclaiming
“The spacious firmament on high
“AndWith all the blue ethereal sky
“And spangled heavens a shining frame
“Their great original proclaim
“The unwearied Sun from day to day
“Doth his Creator’s power display
“And publishes to every land
“The work of an Almighty hand”

I have examined with some care the southern heavens, and confess, I have failed to notice any superiority or beauty in the Southern constellations, over those of the Northern, I have been very much disappointed in that much vaunted constellation

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the Southern Cross, and consider it far inferior to Ursor Major, or Ursa Minor to say nothing of Orion, or Mighty Arcticuus, there is this advantage that the atmosphere is more clear, and the starry host shine forth in greater splendour and distinctness Dear Emma has walked a little on the Main Deck to day and remained in the Cabin to dinner, but was obliged to retire to bed immediately after it was over, in addition to the old ills Toothache has come on with great Severity, I suppose we shall run through the catalogue ere’ we land in Auckland

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51st Day

Wednesday, April 15th

Weather Fine sunny day but very cold Ther. 60 °½

Lat. Obs 42° 34’S Long Chro 12°.00’E Course S.80°E Dist 160 Miles

I do really begin to wish that New Zealand was in Sight, everything is becoming very Monotonous, I just feel like the Man who sat down to count the tickings of the clock, and would like him take off my coat and work like a nigger, we expect to be off the Cape the day after to morrow, I wish it was Van Diemans land instead Dear Emma has not been out of bed to day, she has been worse again to day than yesterday –

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52nd Day

Thursday, April 16th

Weather A very heavy gale with pelting rain Ther 57°½

Lat Obs Uncertain 43° 19’S Do. Acct 43° 03’S Long Acct 16° 07’E Course S.81° E Dist 190 Miles

We were woke up this morning by one of those violent lurches to Starboard, with the Tin Kettle, accompaniement, I dressed and went on deck, and there we were in a heavy gale of wind scudding undere close reefed topsails, and foresail, it was blowing great guns, we managed to get our breakfast, after various upsets had taken place, afterwards, I went on the Poop to have a look out to windward, when one of those gusts came up and carried away my Sailor’s Hat over the side, it was that

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fierce that it tore away the elastic band, which fastened it to my head, all such incidents give rise to merriment and laughter and I had to beat a retreat below to find some other covering, and which I intend shall serve the remainder of the voyage, 6 P.M. no abatement has taken place, the seas have been washing the decks all day, and we have the pleasure of looking forward to anything but a pleasant night 11.P.M. I have managed to get over to the Galley for shelter to smoke a pipe, but I had a job to get back again, the ship rolling and the seas coming over every lurch, in making for the Cabin Door I was thrown against the

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Steps, and sustained a severe blow on my left Shin, after performing several feats in the balancing line during my transit through the Cabin and down the Stairs, I ultimately reached the Door of No 2 Cabin, starboard Side, then it was that Mrs H, insisted on the convenience of adopting a new position in bed it was to lay head and top, thinking I should have a little more room, I acquiesced in the proposition, but very little comfort was derived from the alteration sleep was all but banished from the whole of those in the Ship, it was a fearful Night, of tempest and rain, [indecipherable]Dear Emma has not been out of bed to day she is not quite so well –

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53rd Day

Friday, April 17th

Weather The gale continuing with much rain Ther. 64°

Lat Obs 43° 48’S Long Chu 20° 26’E Course S.76° E
Dist. 196 Miles

After going through a most miserable night, I turned out at ½ past five, the ship rolling and tumbling dreadfully, and to add to the comfort of such a motion, the water was slushing about the deck of our cabin, as four bells were striking, I thought, that nothing less than the bottom of our craft had given way, and that all the Tin plates, Dishes, and Crockery ware in her were rushing with all speed through the aperture into Davey Jones’s Locker confusion, confused, was nothing to it, and as a grand finale

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down came through the Booby Hatch, a tremendous sea, as a refresher, and morning call to the sleepers underneath, to be up and doing – at noon to day we were 26 Miles east of the Cape of Good Hope, the great difficulty appears to be surmounted now that we have doubled it nothing now remains but a straight road, and a fair strong wind - Dear Emma is better to day but has not got out of bed, she is busy making mats and Crochet work –I dont’ intend having any more head and top, for I found a large toe very near in my Mouth this morning –

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54th Day

Saturday, April 18th

Weather Very fine morning the sun delightful strong breeze Ther. 62°

Lat Obs 43° 15’S Long chu 23° 22’E Course N 73°E Dist 135 Miles

We had a treat last night, a good night’s rest, the ship was very easy, her speed during the night averaged 8½ Knots per hour I went on deck at 7 it was one of the finest mornings we have had for some time, the men were busy setting the “Stun sails,” the atmosphere was beautifully clear and bright, so it continued up to about 4 P.M. when the wind began to freshen and we were dashing along at 10 Knots, it gradually increased up to 8 P.M. when the word was passed “brail up the Mizen”

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“reef the Mizen Topsail”, those two manouveres having been executed, has considerably eased the ship, and the Captain’s Mind, a short time elapses, then the word is passed, “haul down the jib”, “slow the fore top gallant sail”, another lull ensues and then the boatswain’s whistle is heard piping “all hands reef the Mainsail”, then follows a series of orders, commencing with the words “stand by” and, “overhaul the reef tackles” “let go the buntlines” &c. &c. then you see dark forms of men climbing up the shrouds, when they disappear in the pitchy darkness which prevails, you can at times hear them shouting

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to those on deck to let go, or haul some rope or other, after some time the order is performed and the men come down on deck again, swearing most dreadfully, as a sample I will give you as near as I can, the reply, to an order given by the chief officer last night by one of the men that I happened to be talking to in the “Midships” the order was, “loose the Mainsail” the old salt looked in the direction the Poop from whence the order came and said in the most calm and deliberate Manner, “ah! you b-r the d-l will loose you some day”, before I had time to offer one word of remonstrance on the impropriety

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of using such language, he was off the deck, running up the shrouds, well I thought he is an English sailor to perfection “grumble and go” but they are a discontented race, the little, at times, they have to do is always done grudgingly, I think if the Sails were set at the Land’s End, and Nothing done to them until the Ship arrived at Auckland they would say they had been too much worked, this is a thorough temperance Ship, grog is not served out at regular times nor do the men expect it, on some occasions, a rough stormy night for instance, the Captain gives them a little, but not

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in sufficient quantity to produce anything like inebriety, the Captain, is a very abstemious man, takes no spirits I believe, and but very little wine Dear Emma is getting better every day, her appetite is as good as ever, it was, but is rather deficient in strength – Calculations are made every day as to the time we shall arrive at our destination, every day shortly after Noon the question in every ones mouth is, what’s the reckoning? if it turns out good then come the congratulations, and also prognostications, taking of course the probabilities of wind and weather into the account –

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55th Day

Sunday, April 19th

Weather Very fine lovely day Ther. 62°½

Lat Obs 43° 15’S Long Chu 27° 04’E Course East Dist 162 Miles

Once more the Sabbath morn has dawned upon us on the bosom of the broad and mighty ocean, and we have been brought thus far on our journey in perfect safety, and am the living to praise ”Him” who is the Author and Giver of every blessing. May He give us hearts to be truly thankful for all the great Mercies received at “His,” hand we can fully acknowledge that our prayers have been heard and answered, oh! may we realize more and more the unbounded love of our heavenly

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Father, I sometimes fear my thoughts and feelings are not real and genuine, but proceed from the mouth and not the heart, when utterance is given to either, I hope and pray it is not so, what a relief it would be to my mind to know I was a child of God, and an heir of eternal life, sometimes an ineffable joy fills my whole soul, but regret today it does not continue long with me – It is a most beautiful morning the air Keen and bracing, and a fair wind blowing, Prayers were read this morning in the Cabin, it is quite a matter of form, certainly not of Spirit, for I noticed in the hands of

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some, novels, immediately before and after the Service, last Sunday, I think it was, Emma called my attention to an instance where the Bible, Prayer Book, and the Novel were open before the same person at one and the same time, the latter of course was the Book under perusal, I should have said it was after the service was over, but still it shows how much the mind has been affected by a consideration of Matters appertaining to our everlasting welfare – Dear Emma is better to day she has dressed, and gone up to dinner and tea I hope soon she will be convalescent

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56th Day

Monday, April 20th

Weather A Most splendid day Ther. 60°½

Lat Obs 43° 0’S Long Chu 31° 43’E Course N.86° E Dist 204 Miles

Another glorious day has broke upon us, during the night the wind freshened and we have been bowling along all day at about 9 ½ Knots, at Noon we were just abreast of the Mozambique Channel and the Mate tells me it is not unlikely we may have a good strong blow during the night, at 8 P.M, she was going most beautifully, the wind had increased a little, and every stitch of canvass set, was doing its duty, the rate 10 ½ to 11 Knots, Dear Emma has been up to dinner and tea, is much better

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to day, 10 P.M. the wind within the last two hours has increased very much, and I have no doubt ere’ I come on deck again the greater part of the canvass now set will have been taken in.

57th Day

Tuesday, April 21st

Weather A very strong Gale from the N.E. with rain Ther. 61°½

Lat Acct 43° 26’S Long Acct 31° 48’ 36° 45’ E Course S. 83° E Dist 226 Miles

The Mate was right yesterday, we have had a real good blow all day, you can always depend on Meeting with heavy weather just here, it comes down from the North East, through the Mozambique Channel, where I believe it is always foul weather, one can scarcely imagine how the wind should be driven with such force through an opening some

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three hundred miles or so wide having for its boundaries the eastern coast of Africa, and the western shores of the Island of Madagascar, we have been running about from 9 to 10 Knots an hour, the seas have been washing not only the Main but the Poop Deck to day a very unusual thing I believe to occur to a full poop ship like the Hark-away, it is a most grand sight to see the ocean boiling, seething, and tossing in headlong confusion, while the ship is cleaving her onward way through it all, she is very much like a locomotive engine the one wants a little coke and water, the other wind and

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canvass, and then there is no setting bounds to their travelling capabilities, while I am writing 10 P.M. the sea is banging her about most unmercifully, it is with some difficulty I can Keep my seat to write at all I will therefore conclude this day’s record by saying that Dear Emma has not been out of bed to day, not being so well as she was yesterday, and that there is every prospect of its being a very rough night –

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58th Day

Wednesday, April 22nd

Weather A most beautiful clear day air rather cool Ther. 63°½

Lat Obs 43° 37’ S Long, Chro 41° 22’E Dist 200 Miles

By the time I was on deck this morning, the wind had very much abated, and the Sun was shining most brilliantly over a beautiful blue green sea, occasionally rising into a gently undulating series of hillocks, with white crests, I went up on the Forecastle Deck, where alone I stood and gazed out upon the fathomless depths around me and then up to the blue ethereal vault of heaven above, whilst I stood contemplating the mighty grandeur of both my eyes filled with tears of love and gratitude to that Being who could only be

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seen by faith, and through the wonderful works of His hands, the feeling of love acting strongly in me, the mind reverted to those we love on earth, their familiar faces I saw again, in succession the well remembered voices were sounding in my ears, as was their wont, but alas the pang shot through my heart, which to express in words would be, “they are gone” from my eyes, perhaps for ever in this life, should it be so, God grant we may all meet again around the throne above my tears were falling fast, and it proved a great relief to my overwrought feelings, I never felt so much on the passage before, I felt the full force of

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the words, “Absence makes the heart grow fonder” &c. I would have given myself to have looked in upon you, had it been possible but that could not be my reverie was broken by the tinkling of the breakfast bell, so I hastened to obey the welcome summons a better man I trust for the morning’s train of thought – After breakfast the crew were busy shaking out the reefs from the Top sails, and setting the Fore Main, lower, and top gallants “Stun sails” which are the fine weather sails, our average rate to day has been from 8 ½ to 9 Knots Dear Emma has been in bed all day, still not worse, than she was yesterday – we shall be off the Island of Madagascar to morrow.

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59th Day

Thursday, April 23rd

Weather Very fine, bright, and sunny day Ther. 59°½

Lat Obs 43° 30’S Long Chro 45° 48’E Course N 87 E
Dist 194 Miles

8 o’Clock, P.M. I have just come below from the Poop, where I had gone to think of what should be said of to day, I really am at a loss what to write, save that the night is pitchy dark, the wind is moderate and fair, and the ship is forging through the watery main at the rate of about 9 or 10 Knots, under a strong press of canvass, there is every probability that the wind will very much increase during the night, the weather is very fickle and changeable in those latitudes it requires great care and caution

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on the part of a Captain when navigating in the present rather high southern latitude, to prevent some of his spars or sails being carried away, but I can bear testimony to the fact that negligence is a thing that can never be brought against the commander of the Ship Hark-Away, there is one peculiarity in the ocean, that has come under my observation to day, and which I wish to record, it was the long, very long, heaving, unbroken, swell from the south west, standing behind the wheel, and looking over the topsail to day, I could not but admire the scene, looking right to the horizon, I could without any difficulty imagine

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the land to be there in a broken rugged outline, which was caused by the waves rising and falling, then you could perceive them coming gradually toward you in form and bulk sufficient to drown the ship and so it would, were it possible to Keep the ship where she was when you first saw it, but all the inconvenience it causes, is a very easy rising of the stern, and as it passes forward is succeeded by a long, broad and extensive valley down the sides of which the sea birds sweep with an alarming velocity –
Dear Emma is better do day, has been up to dinner and tea to day, and at this moment is busy at Crochet work –

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60th Day

Friday, April, 24th

Weather Fine clear sunny day, but very cold Ther 59°

Lat. Obs 43° 39’S Long Chro 50° 43 E Course S. 87° E Dist 213 Miles

Nothing particular has occurred to day, the air very cold, and dry, the passengers present a very different appearance now from what they did in the Tropics, white silk coats, vests, and trousers have disappeared, and in lieu of the same, pilot coats, jackets, and inexpressibles, have supplied their place, we shall experience no change of temperature, until we make the land again, which in all probability will be, Van Diemans land, we shall then come back to the northward a more properly speaking to a

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lower degree of southern latitude, the last week’s sailing has been very good, the distance ran is 1400 Miles, and should that rate be maintained, we hope to be in Auckland, D.O. in five weeks or less from this time. We both look forward to that time with a great deal of anxious pleasure, what awaits us there we Know not, but it inspires us with courage, to Know, that those “who trust in the Lord shall not want any good thing”. The little Cabin whose size and proportions you are pretty well acquainted with, which at first promised so much comfort and convenience, has by this time become a prison house

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environed with numberless annoyances, a noisy infant on one side, and a Grogshop on the other, with a snoring Doctor, and a grumbling Steward on, the opposite side of the street to enhance the pleasure of the foregoing, we now begin to leave the breakfast and dinner table with an appetite, should you have a desire for something to eat for breakfast it is imperative on you to take your seat the very instant the tinkle of the Call Bell, is heard, inattention to the summons, involves the loss of everything eatable or relishing I must leave you to infer how a man fares who has to attend to a sick wife in the “tween decks

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Dear Emma I am sorry to say, has not been able to get up to day from a return of sickness and a cold taken yesterday I suppose I presume from the noise of sliding doors, and moving feet, I hear above, that the time for putting out the lights is drawing very near, and as I have some other duties to perform ere’ the sound of 6, Bells is heard booming aft, (which is with you a ¼ to 8 P.M.) I must bring this days record to a close by saying, Good Night, Good Night, Dear Friends, Good Night, in which my little wife heartily joins –

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61st Day

Saturday, April 25th

Weather A most dismal, wet day, and very little wind Ther. 60°

Lat. Acct. 43° 54’S Long Acct 54° 34’E Course S. 85° E Dist 170 Miles

I fear what is now being written will partake very much of the character of the day, extremely dull and uninteresting, without exception this has been one of the most dreary days we have had since we left London, every one on board appears to have suffered much from “ennui” I did venture on the Poop after breakfast for a short time the Sun was struggling to send, his cheering beams through the dense mist that prevailed, but they proved ineffectual to clear it away, just imagine a nice

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wet, dark, dirty day in November and you have to walk from Temple Bar to Cornhill, and then you will have a pretty good idea of the sort of weather we have had to day, excepting the Mud which is indigenous to 51° 31’ North Latitude & 0° 6’ West Longitude – The good report we received yesterday, relative to our sailing and the very slow progress made to day, has considerably damped our expectations of seeing the coast of New Zealand so soon as anticipated, Saturday Night has arrived once more, and we fancy we see our beloved friends in London, some actively engaged substituting, new, for old “Tiles”

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to the loyal and loving subjects of her Majesty Victoria the First, others with spectacles on nose registering the weekly consumption of the staff of life by the North Westers, another one, consuming what will be midnight oil, or at least some portion of it, revising and correcting the spiritual food for distribution on the Morrow, others engaged in administering to the physical wants and comforts of their several families for the Morrow also I have waded through this day noting, as I have the day itself, very slow and tedious, I feel as though I had walked a long distance Dear Emma has been in bed all day, rather poorly in the early part of it, but just now 9 P.M. a little better.

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62nd Day

Sunday, April 26th

Weather – A Dark, wet, dismal, cold, foggy day and the wind Ther 63 deg
Lat Acct 44.05 deg S Long Acct 57.03 E Course S 84 deg
Dist 110 miles

Today has been much worse than yesterday, a “facsimile” of a cold raw day in England about the middle of November, there is not much room for surprise, seeing that we are getting into the winter quarter of the year in this latitude.

Prayers were read at the usual hour in the Cabin, to a larger congregation than is usual, after the service was over I went below and read the Acts, 17th to 26th, what a man was “Paul”, what moral heroism to stand up and declare to the assembled philosophers of Athens, that the “Unknown God”

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to whom they had erected an altar was “Him”, that he was commissioned to make known to the Jews, and the Gentiles, as the Messiah that was to come as foretold by the Prophets; and then his hoble defence before Festus (Vide, Acts, 26) what an example to copy and to follow, what an incentive there is in his history to do right, fearless of man, or consequences. I very much regret not having “The Footsteps”.

By dint of persuasion, and assistance, I succeeded in getting Dear Emma up to dinner today, she is very much better, but still far from being strong, that I don’t expect she will be until we set foot on Terra Firma once more.

½ past ten PM it is beginning to blow strong.

11 PM We are in bed, but distinctly hear the wind, popular “All hands up Topsails”. Oh! That’s it, no sleep tonight. During the night one of the Pigs caught cold and was very ill, as provision is becoming scarce and could not afford to lose it, was obliged to cut its throat to save its life.

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63rd Day

Monday, April 27th

Weather – A Gale of wind and torrents of rain. Ther 64 ½ deg
Lat Acct 43 deg 19 S Long acct 64 deg 24 E Course N 73 deg E
Dist 160 miles

The amount of sleep obtained last night could be put into a half hour without any trouble or inconvenience whatever. I cannot describe, you must imagine what sort of a thing a tempestuous night is at sea, your side of the ship the weather one, you lay your head on the “pillow” and begin to think of home and friends, in the midst of pleasing reminiscence you are startled by a tremendous thump, about 12 inches from your left ear, and then such a rush of waters as never is heard anywhere but at sea, perfectly frightful

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in a few moments you begin to feel a little composed; and confirmed that a hole has not been knocked in the ship’s side, you lay hold of an iron knee, on the corner of a blanket, or your great toe, or anything you can find, and try to go to sleep again, you might perhaps almost reach the goal of forgetfulness, when another blow louder than the first comes, and knocks the ship right over in a twinkling you are wide awake, grasping the iron knee and forcing yourself down in the bed to keep yourself from rolling clean over your wife and out of bed, through the Cabin door across the deck and down to the leeward

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then as the ship rights, you roll back again, and so on, backwards and forwards, just like I’ve seen good cooks fry sausages, roll them over and over to keep them from burning; however by dint of holding on well, to something, you manage to keep yourself within the limits of your berth there to roll comfortably against the softest part of your better half, and your better half against you, so on and on alternately, with an occasional exclamation of “Peter don’t” roll against me, I am very sorry Madam, but really it is out of my power to avoid it, then again, why you’ll kill me; to this last, Peter makes no reply

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knowing he has too much love and regard for her to do or even think of doing such a crime as rolling his wife to death, but he keeps a quiet, firm, grip of the iron knee, or the blanket, or his toe, and tries to go to sleep; well, such was the character of last night as near as I can give it up to ½ past 4 this morning, when I could stand it no longer; my wife and I formed ourselves into a committee, and, It was resolved, that I should get out of bed, strike a light, envelop myself in some warm clothing, and go on deck to take an observation, and report thereon agreeably to the resolution.

I went out of our Cabin into outer darkness

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but after some careful groping I found myself at the foot of the ladder leading up to the Cabin, which I ascended with no little difficulty, I then cautiously felt my way to the Mizzen Mast, and partly through the Cabin, when all at once my left hand dropped on a piece of wet cloth, which proved to be the Captains jacket – he had been up all night and was sitting having a dose, it awoke him and he cries out – what’s that? Who’s there? I spoke my name and all was right. I scaled the Poop ladder and then what a scene! The ocean seemed to be downright mad; raging mad; the elements were at furious war

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the wind howled, and whistled by turns, the sea roared almost to deafening, and the rain was falling in pieces as though the windows of heaven had been opened and the fountains of the mighty deep broken up. A hasty glance, and as hasty a good morning to the Chief Mate was sufficient, I descended as quickly as possible and informed Emma of the details to the effect that it was blowing great guns and not from the right direction but the latter was a mistake arising no doubt from the hurried manner in which the observation was taken.

I then partially undressed and laid myself on the bed, in a trench I had made in the feathers, still that was not sufficient to keep me

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from rolling out of bed and doing damage to the “little critter” on my right, about an hour and a half after this the motion became unbearable, and to add to the misery of our position the water came pouring through the deck upon our faces and pillows, drenching everything on the bed.

I then turned out again to make preparation for a fit of sickness which lasted from that time upto about 5 o’clock P.M. Just before breakfast and while I was dressing, the Chief Mate came below and intimated to us that if we had any wish or desire to see the “Hark-Away” breasting the raging billows at the rate of 16 knots an hour, now was the time, for he had just “hove the log”. The information was most grateful

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to the ear, for more reasons than one, after such a night of discomfort; between 9 and 10 A.M. we were summoned to breakfast, but on arriving at the table, the great difficulty to surmount was to take a seat and to keep it after you had got it, to say nothing of eating or drinking with anything approaching pleasure or comfort, after the performance of many ludicrous feats by the Plates, Dishes and Cups and Saucers, which kept up a jingling concert the whole time the affair was wound up by the ship giving a grand lurch and precipitating the contents of a large breakfast cup hot and hot, from the serving tray, into the face and bosom of the great Dea-piece, succeeded by a most vociferous shout of laughter

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from all present, and the exclamation of “By Gum, this won’t do” from the sufferer; in his endeavour to beat a retreat to his Cabin, the ship gave another lurch and sent him sprawling in amongst the legs of the chairs and tables on his “soft plank”; after some difficulty he was extricated from his ludicrous and undignified position, and helped to assume the vertical, or as near as the motion of the ship would admit of when another burst of merriment greeted him, to which he responded in a tone composed of half anger and half mirth “By Gum, this is worse than ever” and thereupon disappeared from view into his “Bunk”, a short time after he again made his appearance on the Main Deck, habited in a dry suit

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smiling at the mishaps of the morning, and preparing to charge his “Meerschaum” when the ship gave another heavy lurch and shipped a bulky sea, which threw him once more on his beam ends, swimming down to leeward. After this he vanished from “human ken” until dinner time, when a repitition of the events of the morning on a more extended scale took place.

Here I would just mention a little incident in connexion with myself, after dinner I was standing outside the Cabin door and had just filled my pipe waiting an opportunity for a run to the Galley to light it, when a tremendous sea came over the side and thoroughly drenched me, I need not add that it put my pipe

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out altogether for a time, after giving myself a good shake, and taking a walk on the Poop to dry, I succeeded in carrying out my original intention, as my feet were very wet I deemed it prudent to go and put on my thick boots, which the last time I saw them were hanging with other two pairs outside the Cabin door. Much to my surprise and annoyance I found they were missing, thinking they might from the rolling of the ship have fallen from the nail down among the boxes, I took a candle and made a diligent search for them but in vain, they were gone. I immediately made enquiries but with no good result, I have informed the Chief Mate of the circumstances and have left it in his hands.

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5 o’clock P>M> The Gale has abated a little, but the rolling is fearful.

I will now describe to you the position I am in while writing this, my desk is Emma’s trunk on the top of another box between the washstand and the side of the bed. I am seated on a Cane bottom chair, my left leg jammed in between a box and the washstand, the right one extended out in the form of a strut to keep the base steady while every two or three minutes I am obliged to drop my pen and hold on with both hands to the side of the bed, to prevent my oscillating materialism from being dashed through the Cabin door out into the steerage, during this time Emma is comfortably reposing by my side, all but gone to the

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land of forgetfulness.

7 Bells P.M. I have just been on deck and the gale has very much abated, but there is a very heavy sea running. To close the record of this day I will just say that without exception this has been one of the most trying and fearfully unpleasant days we have experienced.

64th Day

Tuesday, April 28th

Weather – a clear day and the gale is a little abated. Ther 60 deg
Lat Obs. 43 deg 41 S Long Chro 63 deg 37 E Course S 81 deg E
Dist 145 miles

My side of the bed being too wet to pay in last night I had to wrap myself up in a blanket, stretch myself on the outside. We both slept very well until this morning

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The rolling still continued as bad almost as yesterday, it came on to rain heavily about 1 A.M. and continued to do so for some hours, which shut the whole of us up in the Cabin.

Towards evening the wind and sea fell very rapidly, which enabled us to shake out a “Reef” and loop the Main Sail, or as I call it, Barclay’s Team of Horses. I went on deck again at 5 Bells, it was then a very fine night, the ship forging along at about 11 Knots and rolling very heavily.

Dear Emma has been in bed all day, and is much better than yesterday, for the first time she has been perusing this diary.

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Weather – A fine, clear and sunny day, but blowing very heavy. Ther 58 deg
Lat Obs 43 deg 38 S Long Chro 67 deg 49 E Course S 84 deg E
Distance 185 miles

I was awoke this morning by Emma crying out, Mother, Mother, what shall I do, what shall I do? Oh! Philip, poor fellow, poor fellow, what shall I do? Oh poor fellow, and then burst into tears. I called and shook her repeatedly but to no purpose, while doing so her hand was passing rapidly over my arms and chest, at the same time asking Who’s this, who’s this, when she felt my beard and whiskers she called out, Is this you Philip; Yes it is, oh how glad I am, Oh my. Anon.

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It was of course the result of a dream, that Mother came in and told her I was dying, and that she was on the eve of becoming a Mother.

After breakfast I went on deck, it was blowing very hard, but we had a good deal of canvas spread for all that, at 11 A.M. the cry was heard “Reef the Mizzen Topsail”, “Haul back the reef tackles”. 12 A.M. “Slow the Fore and Main Top, Gallant sails”, 1 P.M. Reef the Fore Topsail and close reef the Mizzen Topsail, 3 P.M. “Clew up the Mainsail”, ¼ past “Fuel the Mainsail”, “Slow the outer Jib”, that done, again the order “Close reef the Fore Topsail” but all they had time to do that the

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gale in its fury had split it, all that could be done was to haul out the reef tackles and let it stand until some other orders were executed, when it would be furled, the seas have been washing the Poop deck more or less all day. This morning the Captain and Second Mate had a complete ducking, I was standing just behind them but just out of reach, such having been the state of the Poop, I must leave you to guess what the main deck has been, I saw one sea pass right over and break on the other side, in the midst of it all the sun was shining most beautifully, and everyone in good spirits, except the Steward

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and his subordinates. I must say it is rather a trying time and a difficult job as well, to pass the dinner from the Galley, which is forward, to the Cabin Aft, in a gale of wind, not but what it is almost as trying to eat it, after it is there.

4 Bells PM> or 10 o’clock. The gale still continues, the rolling is fearful. I am now writing with my elbows jammed in between the bed and the washstand, Emma has just desired me to put a Box to her back to keep her a little bit steady, she has not been so well today, has not been out of bed, while writing this last sentence the Second Mate has come below to call the Chief Officer to close reef the Main Topsail, bad sign

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66th Day

Thursday, April 30th

Weather – a Gale with torrents of rain Ther 63 deg
Lat Acct 44 deg 18 S Long Acct 71 deg 14 E Course S 82 deg E
Dist 150 miles

Last night after writing the words bad sign, I went up into the Cabin to see what sort of weather it was, before going to bed, I was not surprised to find the heavy wind we had all day increased to a downright heavy gale with rain. The sailors were busy on the Yard reefing the Main Topsail, a few of the passengers were on the Main deck like Jacob’s sons, looking one upon another, and almost afraid to ask what would be the end, to be candid I must say that I felt as I had never done before, a degree of timidity seized me that I could not account for, the wind was blowing to such

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a pitch of violence and fury that it was with difficulty the Captain could make himself heard, the wind was a point or two abaft the beam, which always has the effect of keeping the ship steady, and ploughing along in the trough of the sea, about every 5 or 10 minutes one would (a regular mountain) come and break like thunder against her weather side, causing her to vibrate from stem to stern and almost to stand still, but like a high mettled racer, would catch her wind and then dash on again with redoubled force and energy, one by one of the cabin Cabin passengers would come and look out of the window and say “My isn’t it blowing hard”, hem.

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I shall go to bed, the best place for you my jolly fellows thought I, after they were gone and the lights put out I lighted a pipe and went up on the Poop with the Captain where I remained about half an hour, while there I thought what a capital place this would be to send some of the smoke dried cockneys to, for a modicum of fresh, pure and uncontaminated air; feeling cold I went below and turned in, but not to sleep, the tremendous blows the seas would give, and the sudden keeling over to leeward was quite sufficient to keep anyone awake and watchful.

I woke up this morning at ½ past seven, and the wind had very much abated; but raining very heavy

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which it continued to do until 3 o’clock P.M. when it began to clear off, 8 o’clock P.M. it is now a very fine moonlight night, the sea comparatively smooth, with a fine fair wind, the sailors are busy shaking out the reefs, and hoisting sail again, the rate about 8 ½ knots.

Dear Emma has not been able to get up today, it is a most miserable place to be in on a wet day, ‘tween decks, everything is so damp, and so dark that you are compelled to burn a candle all day long. A rumour has been floating about today that in three weeks from next Monday we shall be in Auckland, I hope and trust it may turn out correct.

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67th Day

Friday, May 1st

Weather – unsettled, wind, rain and sunshine alternately Ther 58 ½ deg Lat Acct 44 deg 28 S Long Acct 75 deg 50 E Course S 87 deg E
Dist 199 miles

The morning gave indications that the rumour of yesterday was likely to be true, the ship was running 11 knots, and the sun was shining brightly, about 4 Bells dark clouds were seen coming up from windward, which in less than half an hour burst over us in the form of heavy rain and wind, rendering it necessary to furl the Mainsail and reef the Topsails about 6 Bells P.M. it began to clear up, and was fine up to now 8 o’clock P.M.

I have just come from the deck, and it is a beautiful moonlight night, but very cloudy

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While there smoking a pipe I stood looking up to the constellation the Southern Cross in the Zenith, it consists of five stars, the fifth not of the same magnitude or degree of brightness as the other four, its form is something like the diagram in the margin. There is a very singular black space of some extent in the position indicated by the x it appears to me like a great hole in the densely studded starry heavens, through which you look out into illimitable space for beauty or magnitude it is not (in my opinion) to be compared with “Orion” or the “Great Bear” in the northern hemisphere.

I have not forgotten the request you made, that I would give

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you my opinion on the appearance of the southern heavens generally, in reference to Isaiah XL-26 they are a “host by number”, not that the number perhaps is greater here than anywhere else, but are seen through a more clear and rarefied atmosphere, and from that cause the more remote star systems are brought into view. Herschell, on one occasion took the altitude of Venus, at noon, in the Observatory at the Cape, a strong proof of the extreme clearness of the media through which she was seen.

Dear Emma has been in bed all day, but is not worse, we have burnt all our candles, and have been obliged to buy some of one of our fellow passengers.

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68th Day

Saturday, May 2nd

Weather – Very fine clear day, very little wind, air cold Ther 59 deg
Lat Obs. 44 deg 40 S Long Chro 78 deg 50 E Course S 85 deg E
Dist 132 miles

Today about 1 o’clock I was sitting in the Cabin marking off the ship’s course when one of the passengers rushed out of his berth crying out A Whale, A Whale, a general rush to the Poop took place, and there was the monster swimming along close alongside, we then ran forward and had another good sight of him, I should think it was from 30 to 40 ft long, an immense black mass sailing along, and every time he came to the surface to breathe, the noise from his nostrils was not unlike a small hurricane, in going down again the head

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went first, and was very much like a ship dismasted, and in the act of foundering bows foremost. We should have made a good days work of it had the Hark-Away been fitted with the requisite tackle and gear for capturing such small fry, we are just sailing along on the edge of the fishing ground, the islands to the southward of us is the general rendezvous for the whalers, about 12 of the crew in charge of the Mate remain on shore Seal fishing, whilst the remainder in the ship are cruising for Whales.

Dear Emma has been in bed all day, we are thoroughly tired of our voyage, it is a long time to be on the ocean without seeing even a ship, say nothing of the land

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69th Day

Sunday, May 3rd

Weather – Fine day but very cold with a strong breeze Ther 58 deg
Lat Obs 45 deg 02 S Long Chro 81 deg 02 E Course S 77 deg E
Dist 98 miles

This day I have to record a most pleasing and gratifying incident, about ½ past 12 P.M. I had the pleasure of conducting Dear Emma up on the Poop, for the first time these five weeks. The stay was short in consequence of the cold and incapable of any prolonged exertion. It really afforded me great pleasure to feel her arm once more on mine and pacing the deck, I cannot say a word about her rosy cheeks, or superfluity of fat, but on the whole she is considerably improved, especially in density, after resting

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some time she came up to dinner which she very much enjoyed and afterwards went to bed. Oh! How delightful it would be to wake up in New Zealand, we are so thoroughly tired of the voyage although the time has glided away very rapidly, very near eleven weeks have elapsed since we last saw you, I can scarcely believe it, or that we are so many thousands of miles away from you. We talk of you all every day, and think what fine weather you are enjoying, the Primroses, Crocuses, Wall Flowers, and the other floral beauties of the season, charm your eyes and gratify your senses whilst we are, and have been surrounded above and below

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with cold, cheerless, wintry weather. No cheerful fireside alleviates the discomfort and inconvenience which a long sea voyage exposes you to. It is an established fact, based on long experience, and accurate observation, that the Southern Hemisphere is very much colder than the Northern, arising from the almost boundless expanse of ocean and the absence of land, when compared with the latter.

Divine Service was held in the Cabin at the usual hour ½ past ten, a saunter on the decks and reading filled up the intervening space of time until the dinner bell rang at 4 o’clock.

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70th Day

Monday, May 4th

Weather – Very cold and wet and a strong breeze Ther 54 ½ deg
Lat Acct 46 deg 10 S Long Acct 84 deg 34 E Course S 65 deg E
Dist 163 miles

Should we have to continue the course we have been sailing in these last two days we shall go straight down to the South Pole, we have had a foul wind since yesterday morning and blowing half a gale, the ship very unsteady.

Through the kindness of the Chief Officer I have been able to make acquaintance with the Rev. T. Binney’s plan of “Making the best of both Worlds” as far as I have gone, it does appear practicable to do so.

Dear Emma in bed all day.

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71st Day

Tuesday, May 5th

Weather – Cold, wet and windy Ther 56 ½ deg
Lat Acct 47 deg 10 S Long Acct 86 deg 58 E Course S 59 deg E
Dist 116 miles

During the night the wind rose to a moderate gale and veered round to a point favourable. We have now to pay for the very fine weather we experienced in the commencement of the voyage, we have not had for
the last fortnight a consecutive fair wind for a longer period than twenty four hours, it is very trying, now that our patience along with the Revisions, clean Linen, etc etc are nearly exhausted.

Dear Emma got up to dinner and remained to Tea, she is much better.

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72nd Day

Wednesday, May 6th

Weather – Very cold, wet, and cheerless

Ther. 55°

Lat. Obs. 47°03’S Long Chro 91°40’E Course N.88°E Dist 207 Miles

The fair wind held us on until this afternoon, when it again became foul, at this time 9 P.M. we are four points off our course, the Chief Officer is on deck very angry, he says it is enough to make a man jump overboard, it is blowing rather strong, the Sails double reefed, the ship going about 8 Knots and rolling dreadfully which appears to be a quality belonging to all Scotch built vessels there is not sufficient beam in them, nothing of any importance has taken place lately, beyond

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the dull monotony of life on board ship, I have read to Emma, yesterday, and to day Binney’s Book, it is an excellent work. We are now in distress for want of Candles, we burnt the whole of those from Gravesend and a Box from Plymouth in addition, last week, and the last piece of Nine, which one of our fellow passengers gave us then, is now in the Lamp, I have been trying to night to find a market but have not yet succeeded, there is now about 1½ inches left, as there are many things to do ere’ it is burnt out I must conclude this by saying, Emma has been in bed all day, rather worse than usual.

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73rd Day

Thursday, May, 7th

Weather – Very Cold with a strong breeze. Ther. 56½

Lat Obs. 47° 24’S Long Chro 95°00’E Course S. 81°E Dist 138 Miles

This has been a very dull day, for want of Candles I have not been able to read, to walk the Poop has been very unsafe, we have been bowling along in fine style, the ship rolling very badly, I have been trying to find some candles but have not succeeded, 6, P.M. The wind is increasing and the appearances to windward indicate a stormy Night, we are well prepared for it all our sails are reefed. We are now obliged to burn Matches and bits of candle ends in a Tin dish. Dear Emma in bed all day, very sick in the morning.

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74th Day

Friday, May 8th

Weather – Very cold and showery, with half a gale of wind. Ther. 54°

Lat Obs. 47° 09’S Long. Chro 99° 30’E Course N. 85° E Dist. 202 Miles

There we are in our Sanctum Sanctorum, shut in from the noise and revelry of the Card Players in the Cabin, Emma in bed working away at her Crochet, and I endeavouring to write, as well and as fast as the rolling of the ship will allow of, I must be like the Irishman, commence this day with what took place last night, for want of illuminating power we went to bed very early, some time had elapsed when we heard the Captain come down and call the Doctor in great haste, we could not

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make out what had occurred so turned about and went to sleep as best we could, the ship pitching and rolling very badly, as ½ past 3, A.M. the whole of the passengers were roused out of sleep by one of the heaviest squalls we have as yet experienced the ship at times was all but on her beam ends, I rose up and looked out of the window, outside ran along the “Main Sheet” a very stout rope belonging to the Main Sail, which the Crew were trying hard to furl, every time the wind would flap the sail, the rope would come against the side with a crack like thunder, I was fearful lest the glass should be broken

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had such an event occurred, we should have been out of house and home in a jiffy, fortunately they furled the sail and the result was the ship became much easier and in about ½ an hour the fury of the squall abated, it is by no means a pleasant thing to be suddently woke up in the dark, by a rascal of a Cabin Boy calling as loud as he could, and (in a tone and manner that would seem to say “Make haste and save your lives”) “Mr Brown, Mr Brown, all hands shorten sail,” I have promised him to day, the next time he is guilty of such indiscretion to wig his ears gratuitously, the alarm the young scamp created amongst

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the Ladies was very great especially so to our next door neighbour Mrs Parker, who is in a highly interesting situation, and not a great way off a realisation. I turned out at 6 Bells went upstairs and there I learnt why the Doctor was called in such haste last night, it appears Mrs Lewis a rather tall and stout Lady was sitting in a chair in her Cabin drassing her hair preparatory to going to bed, on the windward side, the ship gave a sudden, fearful lurch and sent her flying [indecipherable] out of the chair down to leeward against the Cabin Door, knocking out nearly the whole of her front teeth and doing other serious damage

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to her frontal sinus, at present the Doctor is incapable of saying whether they will set again or not. I am happy to say that after scouring the ship very near, I found some Candles, four from one, fifteen from another of our companions, I hope and trust they will be sufficient to light us into Auckland, for the last fortnight we have had very cold, wet, disagreeable weather, the wind not fair twelve hours together, what we want is a strong south or south west wind instead of which it has hung in the north and north east for a very long time, sometimes blowing a heavy gale, if it does not alter soon we shall soon be down among the Icebergs off Desolation or Kergullens Land. Large masses of Sea Weed has gone astern to day.

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75th Day

Saturday, May 9th

Weather – Fine, clear, sunny day. Very cold, with a strong breeze, but foul. Ther. 54° Lat Obs. 47° 12’S Long Chro 102° 36’E Course S.88° E Dist. 128 Miles

There we are off to the South Pole at the rate of 9 Knots an hour should you not hear from us in ordinary time you may conclude we are in the Ice bound regions of the South, whaling, or catching Bears, those foul winds are most trying to the patience of every one, our grumbling Major Domo, says he dosent’ Know what he is going to feed us on, all our Mutton is gone that is eatable, and our Pork is becoming “small by degrees and beautifully less”. This morning the Captain said he would feel obliged if I

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would Kindly show the Carpenter how to repair the Cabin Door Lock, which I did with pleasure so between us both we made a good job of it considering the Means we had at our disposal, and really it was very gratifying to Know you had some good, although comparitively very trivial in itself. On my going below I was agreeably surprised to find that during my absence Emma had Managed by dint of holding on, to get out of bed, and dress herself, and waiting my arrival to escort her on deck, a pleasure we both very muich enjoyed.

Never before, did I see the vast expanse of ocean or sky assume such a beautiful blue, the former

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with its mountain wave and fantastic spray, playing and presenting its snowy crests to the noonday sun, while the latter scattered oer’ with silvery, fleecy, clouds, with their golden tinted fringes, proclaimed aloud the infinite skill and power of the Great Architect of the Universe. After a smart promenade of about Seventy Minutes duration we retired to the Cabin for a short time, thence to our berth where Emma was very sick and ill she recovered sufficient to go to dinner, by this time what was so fair and beautiful in the morning was now cold, wet, and stormy the ship rolling very badly, and Many points off her course.

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76th Day

Sunday, May 20th

Weather – Cold, wet, and stormy with a strong breeze Ther. 57°

Lat. Acct. 47° 30’S Long Acct. 104° 35’E
Course S. 77° E Dist 85 Miles

We passed a tolerable night and woke up cheered to find the wind fair, and the ship once more in her right course, again Divine Service was held in the Cabin at the usual hour, after which the Captain was pleased to say, that should the present wind hold, in all probability two more Sabbath’s would end his important and ministerial duties to the Cabin Passengers of the devoted Ship Harkaway, a most pleasing announcement to hear, not that the duties of the Sabbath day had become irksome

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but because we should then look forward to the pleasure of being once more on the land and to have the privilege of worshipping and praising Him in the great congregation – In the foregoing remark you must understand it to apply only to ourselves, I am sorry to say we have not found one among our fellows voyagers of like sympathies with ourselves even the one mentioned in the early part of this Diary, viz. Mr Hancock, has not proved (in this respect) what we had hoped. The Novel, and the Pack of Cards, have presented too great a pleasure to afford time for what is of more vital importance –

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77th Day

Monday, May 11th

Weather – Very cold but fine in the morning, wet and stormy after 1. P.M. Ther. 54°½

Lat. Obs. 46° 05’S Long Chro 108° 10’E Course N. 60° E Dist. 171 Miles

Should the strong and fair wind we now have continue, we shall, most probably sight Van Diemans Land in two or three days, the “Stun Sails” which had been stowed away in the “Hold” some days ago, were again brought up and rigged, the breeze about noon increased so much that we had to lower them again and restore them to their old place blow. The sea had risen to a great height rolling along with the ship and the wind, all in one direction at the rate of 10½ Knots, it is a grand sight to stand behind the “Wheel”

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and look astern at the mountain waves rolling up behind you, sometimes to such a height that you instinctively grasp what is nearest to you and hold on hard, under the impression that it is coming right aboard and will sweep the decks right “Fore and Aft” you look again, it is gone, and the “Stern” is flying up in Mid air, while the “Bows” are going down to the regions below, it is now very cold, I have chilblains on my feet, and many others have them on their hands, we can sleep comfortably under a sheet, three blankets, and a Counterpane, and a large Sail Canvass Sheet outside all, to catch the wet. This is the first day the Skipper has applied force to our noble craft

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the only reason for his doing so, is, in my opinion, the fresh provisioins are very rapidly disappearing and no alternative remains but to get into port as soon as possible, I have seen the ship under less canvass with not the same strength of breeze, than she is now, staggering along under. For some considerable time the wind has been in the North East, veering to all the points between, it, and East, sometimes going to East by South and East, South East just now it is South, South West the very thing we want to make a due East Course. I hope and trust it will hold for the next fortnight we will willingly put up with hard thumps and wet decks for so desirable an object ½ past 11 P.M. There is a tremendous sea on Dear Emma in bed all day, but pretty well.

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78th Day

Tuesday, May 12th

Weather – Very strong breeze alternately clear, and cloudy. Very cold.

Ther. 56°½

Lat. Obs 45° 27’S Long Chro 114° 06’E Course N. 81° E Dist 255 Miles

We did not sleep very readily last Night, the rolling was fearful, it was, hold on boys, or out you go “neck and crop.” About 1, A.M. one of the most fearful crashes was heard, it alarmed everyone in the after part of the ship, aye, even the Captain on the Poop, and the Men at the “Wheel.” On examination, it proved to be a Cask of empty Bottles, broke a drift from the violent rolling of the Ship, everytime the vessel heeled over, the bottles would run down to leeward dashing one another in atoms, the chief mate sent down

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some of the watch to clear away the debris, and in a short time comparitive quiet was restored. I went on deck this morning at 7 found the wind blowing quite as strong, the Sea running very high, but the Ship more steady. About Noon I was standing alone on the “Forecastle” watching the foam and the waves on either side and around, some of them without exaggeration from fifteen to twenty feet above the bulwarks but the majority breaking against the side, the crest only coming aboard, the watch was just underneath me on the Main deck pounding Holy stone, some singing others joking, I had a firm hold of a spar on the port side and

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looking quietly on, when in an instant the “Bows” rose high in the air, I looked aft and there was the mountain billow sweeping the Poop Deck, it had come on board at last, fortunately nothing serious occurred, the next one that came up, passed the Stern, and came on board at the Fore Chains, in full force, dropping quietly down into the Galley through the Hatchway on the Forecastle deck washing the Cook with all his phylacteries of Legs of Pork, and Mutton, half finished Pies, and Tarts, clean out of house and home, Now just imagine a man in full swing at the foregoing work in a space of about 6 ft by 5

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the size of the cooking apparatus to be deducted, being suddenly and without warning washed out, the Leg of Pork floating away aft, the Pies following in the rear I shall never forget the man’s countenance, he rushed like a Madman on the truant Leg, seized it in desperation and placed it under his arm, and then with convulsive grasps he caught the dishes in succession then standing erect he looked around for something on which to launch his expletives, at last the human storm burst oer’ the head of one who presumed to laugh at his misfortune, in such a volley of oaths and imprecations (uttered in broad York) as only a

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sailor is capable of, then looking out on old ocean (who was rolling and tumbling on as before as though enjoying the sport and winking at him in a manner that seemed to say, “How are you old fellow”) with such an expression of concentrated rage and anger that you could read these words plainly written, “There it is wasent’ for getting the dinner, I,d’ come and swallow you down at a mouthful, the freak was not completed until Tea time, when to the utter disgust of every one it was found the salt water had got into the Copper and the Tea had been made with it, the Captain immediately ordered the Copper to be cleansed and another brewing made

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instanter, so we had two Teas one at 7 the other at 8. Dear Emma has been in bed all day she has just completed the large piece of Crochet and has commenced making a fringe for it, I beleive it is intended to a small Coverlid to cover a juvenile, from what I have seen of it, it will be a very handsome one. 11 P.M. went on deck, fine dry, moonlight night, wind strong and fair, the Ship going 10 Knots and rolling very heavy.

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79th Day

Wednesday, May 13th

Weather – Very fine day but cold, with a good breeze from the S.S.W. Ther. 54½

Lat. Obs. 45° 38’S Long Chro. 119° 18’ E Course S.87° E Dist 221 Miles

This morning rose at ½ past 7 took a walk on the Poop till’ breakfast time, afterwards lighted a Pipe went on the Poop again and had a long Yarn with Mr Griffiths, greatly to my surprise I found he was a Pilton man, his Father being Mr Griffiths living at the top of the village going to Bradiford, the house opposite to old “Ian Spurway’s” he is the same person who some time since, in a former “confab” said he would not object to join me in the Saw Mill speculation it was mutually pleasing to find

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we were so near neighbours, we had in review the whole of the old inhabitants, rich and poor, young and old, I was very much pleased indeed with the recalling of all the old faces, even now very familiar, at this great distance of time and space. Nothing at all particular has taken place to day, the wind has been very moderate, which has enabled us to crowd Sail we have been running about 8½ Knots all day. Yesaterday at Noon we were abreast of Cape Leeuin the most South westerly point of Australia. Dear Emma has been in bed all day, but pretty well considering –

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80th Day

Thursday, May 14th

Weather – Fine day but cold very strong wind Ther. 57½ °

Lat Obs 45° 15’S Long Chro. 124° 05’ E Course N. 83° E Dist. 210 Miles

To day, men and things are in “Statu Quo”, incident, news, or Matter of any Kind is very scarce the prevailing topic of conversation is the day when we shall be in Auckland, in this respect, there are many degrees of anxiety, with those who are going out in the employ of the Government, and who’s bread is already buttered, are all very happy and comfortable, those on the contrary are all becoming very solicitious as the voyage begins to draw to a close.

Dear Emma got up to dinner to day did not stay to Tea, being unwell.

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81st Day

Friday, May 15th

Weather – Thick and hazy with a Moderate Gale form N.E. Ther 56°

Lat Obs Acct. 46° 10’S Long acct 128° 57’E Course S. 75° E Dist 215 Miles

This morning the effects of an horrible dream, with sundry shakes and calls from Emma woke’ me at 5, I laid for some little time, but finding the ship heeling over very much and the wind screeching a great deal, I turned out and went “en deshabille” on deck, the day was just breaking, the wind was blowing very hard, and the Sun was just begining to tinge the eastern horizon with its orient beams, feeling a desire to see it rise in those latitudes I went below and finished dressing and then came on deck again

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what a change had taken place the sky was now for an immense distance one mass of the richest colors I ever saw, a most exquisite gold tipped with deep Violet, in streaks in a short time the gold deepened and the Violet became lighter in color, still more beautiful if possible, and as “Sol” rapidly approached the horizon, the Violet gave way to a most beautiful light emerald green, and the gold to a gorgeous silvery grey, at this moment the greater part of the visible heavens were shaded off in the most rich and varied manner with the hues enumerated presenting a “tout ensemble” which human language would fail to describe about ½ past 6 the glorious orb

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began to peep above the horizon preceeded by streaks of brilliant light in the form of a fan, radiating from its centre, in a short time he is all above in ineffable glory, but which was of very short duration, a dense haze came up with the wind from the North east and completely overshadowed it, with the latter came the precursor of a gale. The silver whistle of the “Bosen” was heard piping, “all hands shorten sail”, which consisted in double reefing the “Topsils”, “brailing up the Mizen”, furling the “Mainsail” and hauling down the outer “Jib” the gale gradually increased and has continued so up to this time 9. P.M. I have just come from

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the deck and it is a most dismal night, blowing great Guns with a little rain, heavy seas of course coming about every five minutes over our port bow drenching everything within its reach, the moon will rise about 10. While there I had an excellent opportunity of seeing a highly interesting phenomenon, the phosphorescence of the sea; the appearance all round as far as you can see is, as though old Neptune had illuminated his vast watery domain with thousands of halfpenny candles, with a tolerable sprinkling of wax moulds, the appearances have been accounted for by small animalcules floating on the surface and possessing the

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illuminating property, at any rate the sight was most singular and interesting.

11. P.M. The wind is now blowing a fierce gale, I am hesitating whether to go into bed or put on my clothes again and go on deck, ½ past 11 The chief officer has just been called to shorten sail, and I have resolved to go into bed, could you but see me trying to get my stockings off I am sure you would laugh heartily at the ludicrous figure I present – To my wife, who I am sorry to say has been very unwell all day from the violent pitch and roll motion of the ship, which at times is almost unendurable.

Good Night.

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82nd Day

Saturday, May 16th

Weather – Thick haze with rain, and a strong gale from N.W. Ther 56 deg. Lat acct 46 deg 16 S Long acct 132 deg 54 E Course S.88 deg E
Dist 172 miles

We slept very well last night until ½ past seven this morning, when we were awoke by the Cuddy servant knocking at the door, with his cry of “Water Sir”. I got out gave him the “Can” and received the large quantity of one Quart Imperial Measure, a very small allowance you will say for two people for one day to wash with, I am sure, I had no idea you could keep yourself somewhat clean and decent on so limited a quantity, but at sea you learn to do a great many things not required to be known

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on the land, impatience begins to reign supreme with all the passengers, little quarrels and petty jealousies, with many other of the disagreeables inseparable for so long a voyage are beginning to manifest themselves, but we have, fortunately, managed to steer clear of them all, so far as we know, for we have kept ourselves very select and have not made ourselves “hale fellow well met”.

It has been a most miserable day, a strong gale from N.W. by W. with rain, and a very heavy cross sea on, coming over the whole of the weather side of the ship about every ten minutes. I was made the ungrateful recipient of a regular ducking with one this morning as I stood on the main deck looking aloft. Dear Emma has been in bed all day very unwell

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83rd Day

Sunday, May 17th

Weather – Very fine day and a most glorious breeze Ther 60 deg
Lat obs 45 deg 13 S Long Chro 137 deg 0.4 E Course N 70 deg E
Dist 190 miles

Well here we are on another Sabbath morning, the living monuments of God’s everlasting mercy and goodness, another week has passed away, yet nothing but the sea and sky is visible, how we long to see the land, more than three months have passed away since we left London, yet how short the time appears, it is but as yesterday or a watch in the night, the mind entirely fails to appreciate the time or distance. To know you are some 14,000 miles away from home and friends in the middle of the vast Southern Indian Ocean, but in the midst

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of all, how pleasant and encouraging it is to know and feel that although out of reach of kind parents and affectionate sympathizing relatives, there is One who every day and hour that passes over us keeps continual guard and watch so that no harm or peril come near us. We cannot but feel assured that the prayers which have ascended to heaven on our behalf have been fully answered in every respect, a prosperous voyage thus far, health, continued to one and reestablished in another, food, freedom from alarm or anxiety, a most careful, kind and good Captain, efficient officers and orderly crew, those are blessings of more thanb ordinary character and for which we truly say, O Lord

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give us hearts to be truly thankful for all Thy great mercies toward us Thy unworthy creatures.

Divine Service was held in the Cuddy at the usual hour, and singular to say the first lesson contained the quotation with which Mr. Forsaith concluded his Lecture “Night and Morning” – it is Deuteronomy VIII, 7 – 9 Verse, how far the description will apply will remain a secret some little time longer, we are now drawing close to Van Diemans Land, whether we shall be gratified with a sight of it or not I don’t know. We are now about abreast of Adelaide.

Dear Emma has been up to dinner and Tea today, she is now very much better, we have thought and talked of you all today.

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84th Day

Monday, May 18th

Weather – Beautiful sunny day and a fine strong breeze from N.E. by N Ther 59 deg Lat obs 44 deg 27 S Long Chro 143 deg 0.1 E Course N 80 deg E Dist 261 miles

We are all in good spirits today, the cause being the excellent run we have made since yesterday noon, to noon today, the long distance of 261 miles having been sailed over, a first rate day’s reckoning, with the wind as at present it will be nearly the same tomorrow, symptoms of our drawing near the land begin to display themselves, such as seeing the sounding Leads and Lines being overhauled and examined, the old marks taken off and new ones put on, consisting of different coloured bunting and bits of leather alternately

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We fully expect to make the land on Wednesday morning or perhaps before, the sooner the better, it will be most grateful to our organs of vision after looking on the vacant ocean for so long a time.

9 P.M. I have just come from the deck, the crew are busy shortening sail, not from having too much wind, but the Captain does not wish to run down Van Diemans Land in the course of the night as he fully expects to make it in the morning. I have requested the Mate to call me on that occasion.

Dear Emma has been up to dinner and tea today, the thought of seeing land has had a wonderful effect.

½ past 11 P.M. The Captain is on deck, apparently very anxious

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85th Day

Tuesday, May 19th

Weather – A most glorious day Ther 61 deg Lat Obs 43 deg 47 S Long Chro 146 deg 42 E Course N 76 deg E
Dist 168 miles

All Hail! All Hail!!! the auspicious morn of this day, words are inadequate to convey our feelings this day, joy unbounded joy has filled our hearts, o ur eyes have been feasted with a sight of Tasmania, now for the details.

We slept very badly all night from the pleasure of anticipation. I had not been called during the early part of the morning and concluded, on awakening, we were doomed to disappointment. I hastily dressed myself and went on deck at 7, when I found the land had been sighted about

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daybreak on the port bow, I hastened on to the Forecastle eager to catch a glimpse, but alas the brilliant rays of the sun had shut it out from view, for some short time. Just before breakfast I went on the Poop and there, away on the Port Bow, was the land looming up, one object more distinct than another stood out in bold relief, it was a bold bluff rock, about 12 miles from the Mainland, its name the Mewstone. We went down to breakfast all in high spirits, immediately after I went below and told Emma she must get up directly, which she was only too glad to do, when we came on deck we were sailing along very near the outer barrier

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of Rocks not more than three miles away, what a magnificent, bold outline, the most rugged and uneven, much more so than the coast line of Devon, and some of the peaks of great height. Glasses of all sizes were in requisition, all endeavouring to discover some trace of civilization, but unfortunately a thick haze hung over the bluff and mountainous land, obscuring all the details. by this time we were abreast of the Mewstone a bold barren Rock with perpendicular sides, very much like the “Steep Holmes” in the Bristol Channel, we were not more than two miles to seaward of it, the white crested foam was dashing up its sides

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to a great height forming a very pleasing sight; the sun has in a measure dispelled the haze, and with the aid of a Glass we can now see the trees and the hues of vegetation, the mountain tops appear to be densely wooded for a great distance to the southward, in which direction the land trends I cannot help once more remarking that I never saw a more indented coast, or such a rugged, uneven fantastic, wild precipitous horizontal line.

4 P.M. We are now sailing across the south of “Storm Bay” at the head of which is “Hobart Town”, we can plainly see the “Light” a revolving one, at the entrance to the harbour, the shades of night

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are closing over us, but we all feel thoroughly refreshed with the sight of solid land, we are now off for Auckland which place we expect to be in on or about Whit Sunday.

10 P.M. It is a most beautiful night, a gentle breeze from the south west, and the sea as smooth as the Thames. We have since sundown hauled a little to the northward. I had forgotten to say, that far away to the southward we saw another bold rock, known by the name of “Pietro Blanco” or “White Peter”, so called from its white appearance.

I need not add that Dear Emma is nearly quite well again.

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86th Day

Wednesday, May 20th

Weather – Fine day, soft balmy air, no sun seen Ther 62 ½ deg
Lat Acct 43 deg 07 S Long acct 149 deg 55 E Course N 74 deg E
Dist 150 miles

I was awoke this morning about ½ past six by the Steward coming below and saying we were close to the land, and that a Steamer was in sight; on no occasion did I ever get out of bed in so short a time, thinking it might have been a homeward bounder, and perhaps be able to send a letter by her. I was soon on the Poop sweeting the horizon in search of the Steamer and the land but was much disappointed in not being able to see one or the other, the Captain now making his appearance I eagerly asked him where the

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Steamer was – What steamer? said he, Why, I replied, the Steward has just come below and told us we were close to the land and that a steamer was in sight. He smiled, at my credulity (I suppose) and informed me the only steamer he had seen was the Tea Kettle just gone into the Pantry to make the early morning’s tea for the Officers, and as to the land, there it is, pointing to a hardly perceptible haze far away in the north western sky. Well, I thought, that old fellow deserves to be bumped for bringing me up here so early under false pretences. Never mind, said I, that shall be put into the pipe and be smoked, done accordingly.

It has been a beautiful, soft,

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balmy day, with light airs from the S.W. The sun has not made its appearance, yet I cannot escape the effect produced on us and every one of the passengers, all appeared to realize the pleasure of living this life here on earth, the ship has been going from 5 to 6 knots during the night, the se as calm and undisturbed as the Thames.

We have been very busy this morning crowding sail, “Main Royal”, “Lower and Top Galnt stun Sails”, Flying Jib and all the other fine weather sails, but the progress made is very little, not more than 4 or 5 knots an hour.

Dear Emma has been walking the Poop as lively as anyone today and this evening, she is very much better, in every way.

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She is now in bed complaining from over fatigue in walking so long a journey, about a quarter of a mile, which is something considerable here on board ship to the eastward of Van Diemans Land.

I had forgotten to say that though we have had no sun’s rays today we had the pleasure of seeing his setting glory, the sight was gorgeously sublime, such as no pen or pencil can do justice to - golden, gorgeous, grandeur are words which but faintly express the idea I wish to convey to you, also, that when we were abreast of the Rock yesterday, the Captain’s reckoning was not out a ¼ of a mile. It is astonishing that after a run of some 14,000 miles in all sorts of weather and seas such a small amount of inaccuracy should exist – strictly speaking, there was none.

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87th Day

Thursday, May 21st

Weather – Very fine day, with a dead calm Ther 61 ½ deg
Lat obs 42 deg 0.1 S Long Chro 150 deg 30 E Course N 18 deg E
Dist 70 miles

our progress during the night has been but very small, this morning the sea is like a sheet of glass, scarcely a breath of air moving and the ship is all but motionless. Shortly after breakfast the Captain was asked the question whether he would allow one of the Quarter Boats to be lowered to have a row, he declined on the grounds that the ship had steerage way on her and that he thought a breeze was coming up, which would involve the liability of their having to row on to Auckland, a distance of some 1,700 miles, or put him to

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the inconvenience of heaving the ship to, about an hour or more had elapsed, and the wind had entirely gone down, when he told them he would not now object to having the boat lowered, which was no sooner said than done; eight of the passengers got in, two of them taking their guns, and away they went astern. It was cheering to see even a boat, with human beings inn it in our vicinity. They were away about an hour when the Chief Officer signaled them to return as the wind was just beginning to freshen which they immediately obeyed, bringing with them a very fine “Solon Gannet”, measuring from

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tip to tip of the wings 7 ft, the body is about the size of a Goose, with a beautiful white plumage, the wings on either side being a rusty black. It is intended to be preserved by one of the passengers who is a bit of an ornithologist.

I have taken the dimensions of one of the boats today conceiving it may, perhaps, be useful to some future day on the rivers of New Zealand. I have thoroughly examined the build of the long boat in addition.

4 P.M. The wind has freshened considerably. Dear Emma has been on deck today, was up to dinner, not to tea, being very tired walking.

8 P.M. The wind is right ahead, a fresh breeze, the ship has just been put about, and we are now off to the South Pole again.

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88th Day

Friday, May 22nd

Weather – Very fine day, strong but foul wind Ther 61 deg
Lat Obs 41 deg 19 S Long Chro 150 deg 45 E Course N 15
Dist 44 miles

This morning after breakfast Mr Battersby commenced to skin the “Gannet” with a view to the preservation thereof, a portion of the main deck was converted into a Dissecting Room “pro-tem”, as the work proceeded the Lecture was delivered ex tempore, it was surprising to see the amount of fat with which the carcass was covered inside and out, serving the double purpose of keeping the bird warm and increasing its buoyancy when floating on the water; after the body has been cut out, the inside of the skin

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is rubbed with a preparation of Arsenic and Plaster. In the course of the morning a Cape Pigeon was flying, on the deck it fell which was very fortunate, they are very pretty birds, white feathers tipped with black, and larger in body than those in England, they are also web footed.

We are all becoming very anxious, cross and fidgetty, the wind has been and still is dead ahead, were our present course continued for any length of time we should perhaps Mr. Buzacott, you see we have been out from Gravesend nearly 100 days, a long time to see nothing but sky and ocean.

Dear Emma has been in bed all day, very sick in the morning.

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89th Day

Saturday, May 23rd

Weather – Showery morning, turned out a fine day, strong breeze from N.E. Ther 64 ½ deg Lat Obs 38 deg 51 S Long Chro 151 deg 38 E Course N 15 deg E Dist 148 miles

I have nothing to write today, beyond that the wind is dead ahead, we have been running due North, when we ought to be going north east, the wind has been blowing very fresh all day, with a heavy swell from the nor-east, causing the vessel to pitch badly. It would be idle to note the calculations that are made as to the distance yet to go and the time of arrival. I have almost made up my mind not to ask another question about one or the other.

I am in a bad temper tonight, from our protracted voyage. Dear Emma in bed all day very unwell.

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90th Day

Sunday, May 24th

Weather – Fine day, with a very strong breeze Ther 65 ½ deg
Lat Obs 37 deg S Long Chro 154 deg 24 E Course N 50 deg E
Dist 174 miles
Extract from Ship’s Log “Heavy head sea on, Ship plunging Forecastle under”
Do, midnight “rain at times, heavy head sea on, ship labouring and pitching heavily”

During the night the wind has very much increased, and we are now running about 10 knots, there is a heavy cross swell on, which about every five minutes breaks with great violence over the Poop or the Forecastle, on no occasion during the voyage has the ship pitched with greater force, her bowsprit touching the sea every plunge.

Divine Service was held in the Cabin at the usual hour, the attendance very thin. We anxiously hope to be in Auckland this day week. Dear Emma in bed all day, we spent a very pleasant evening together, reading the two last Chapters “Luke” and the three first Acts.

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91st Day

Monday, May 25th

Weather – Very fine sunny day Ther 63 deg
Lat Obs 35 deg 57 S Long Chro 157 deg 40 E Course N 68 deg E
Dist 170 miles

We have had a most uncomfortable night from the heavy pitch and roll, on coming on deck this morning I found the Pumps being manned, there being over two feet of water in the well, the greatest depth we have yet had. The violent rocking of the ship yesterday, with the heavy seas that were being almost constantly shipped was the cause. Sailors are as fond of pumping as carpenters boys are of turning the “Grind Stone”, like it so well as to lay down by its side; it is amusing to see the rapidity of their expectoration nand the incessant movement from

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side to side of a thing which shall be nameless in their mouths during the performance.

I have been making blocks of wood for the Cabin Lamps with nails driven in them to hold candles, the part containing the wick being so out of repair, also [indecipherable] everything is becoming very dull and monotonous, we all want to be on shore, if it was only to crack stones.

8 P.M. The wind has all but left us, the Log has just been thrown, rate, 3 Knots.

9 P.M. We have now a fine breeze, dead after us, rate 8 knots.

Dear Emma has been in bed all day, rather poorly

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92nd Day

Tuesday, May 26th

Weather – Fine morning. Heavy showers at noon. Fine evening. Ther 65 ½ deg Lat Acct 35 deg 31 S Long Acct 160 deg 43 E Course N 80 deg E Dist 153 miles

As I have nothing of importance to write about, I will just say, the weather we have had for some few days past has been just what y ou have in England during the Month of April, alternate heavy showers and sunshine. The Captain told us at noon today we were just 700 miles from the “Three Kings” which are small islands situate some ten or twelve miles from the North Cape, the distance run was 140 miles. The crew have been busy today scrubbing the paint and polishing up prior to going into port, which I suppose will be

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somewhere about a week hence.

We have had a fine breeze all day, average rate of 9 Knots, the wind dead aft, our course East by North.

I am happy today I am free from all anxiety or care as to the result, from the commencement of the voyage I have not ceased praying to Almighty God that he would be pleased to go with us and to aid us with His counsel in all our movements and undertakings, and I am sure I have not prayed in vain.

This is a long voyage, I have been taking a retrospective view today of the little incidents which have taken place, the earlier ones appear to be very remote.

Dear Emma got up to dinner today, retired soon after.

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93rd Day

Wednesday, May 27th

Weather - Fine morning, afternoon squally, with very heavy rain Ther 67 deg Tab Obs 35 deg 10 S Long Chro 164 deg 46 E Course N 84 deg E Dist 203 miles

My anxiety to land becomes stronger every day, I never fail to go up on the Forecastle every morning to have a look ahead in the fond, but vain, hope to catch a glimpse of the promised land. I am happy to say that in all probability that pleasure will not be delayed beyond Friday, some time in the day. At noon we were 400 miles from the North Cape, and with our present breeze we expect by the same time tomorrow to have reduced it to 120, we have had a spanking wind for the last

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24 hours dead aft, the rate 11 knots. Today there has been a thorough brushing up of everything on the Poop, the paint has been scrubbed, the decks holystoned, the Brass work made bright, and the Belaying Pins scoured, that portion now looks quite smart. Tomorrow the main deck etc will undergo the same process, so when all is completed we shall make a very decent appearance to enter port.

8 P.M. The wind has risen to almost a brisk gale, we have just finished reefing and stowing sails, our days are very short, the nights very long and dark.

Dear Emma has been in bed all day, the motion being too much for her to get up.

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94th Day

Thursday, May 28th

Weather – Fine day with squalls, wind and rain Ther 65 ½ deg
Lat Obs 34 deg 11 S Long Chro 169 deg 09 E Course N 75 deg E
Dist 230 miles

We have been running 9 knots all right, our reckoning today at noon left only about 150 miles to the North Cape, we having run over 240 miles since yesterday.

The crew have been busy getting the Anchors over the Bows, and bending the Chain Cables to them.

I have been engaged taking the dimensions and sections of the Jolly Boat, and am now thoroughly competent to build one, the day has passed away as usual.

Dear Emma got up to dinner today and retired shortly after.

8 P.M. We have shortened sail

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to a great extent, at present there is but a double reefed Mizen Topsail, close reefed main ditto, double reefed Fore ditto, Foresail and Inner Jib. We expect to make the land in the course of the night or early tomorrow morning. The Captain is acting with the most consummate care and prudence in order to avoid even the appearance of danger.

It is a time fraught with great anxiety to a commander when drawing near to land, especially so when he has never before seen it. I sincerely pray to God that He will be pleased to guide and protect us to the end.

11 P.M. The breeze still continues, the ship rolling very much.

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95th Day

Friday, May 29th

Weather – A most glorious day Ther 66 deg Lat Obs 34 deg 17 S Long by bearing 172 deg 53 E Course S 88 deg E
Dist 192 miles
Extract from ship’s Log – Noon, North Cape of New Zealand lies E.S.E. by compass, distant about 12 miles

What with the rolling of the ship and the excitement of seeing the land again we slept but very little. I turned out this morning at 6 a.m. and went on deck, but immediately retraced my steps to request Emma to look ut of the Port and then she would see the most northerly point of our adopted land, distant about 4 or 5 miles, called the “Three Kings”, which consist as their name indicates of three bluff bold rocks, the first with the extremities high, the middle jagged and broken; the middle one, more

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compact, larger and about 800 feet high; the third much smaller than the other two, with a smoother appearance and the outline not so broken or rugged and having some patches of vegetation consisting of something similar to Ferns and Brushwood, their distance from the North Cape being about 40 miles.

Their outline is something like the following – [sketch]

Just before breakfast the North Cape was visible in the horizon and by the time we came on deck again it stood out in very

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bold relief, the outline of the coast is of the most broken and uneven character, and the horizon line still more so. As you may suppose all but Emma was on deck gazing intently on the delightful change of scene.

On rounding the Cape about 1 P.M. we discovered a large steam vessel run ashore nearly high and dry, with two or three small coasting craft alongside, apparently rendering assistance. The Captain recognized her as the “William Denny” of 800 tons burden, trading between Auckland and Sydney. We hoisted the signal “What ship?” but received no answer, being as we supposed too busy to attend to it, although we could with

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the aid of the Glass, see many persons on the Forecastle, we supposed her to have been on her voyage to Sydney and that in coming up she hugged the land too tight in order to pass through a very narrow channel in rounding the Cape, saving by taking that course about an hour or a little more. Probably we shall get the details when we get into harbour.

5 P.M. We are now abreast of “Hawke’s Bay” and the wind is falling off, the Yards are braced up sharp.

Dear Emma in bed all day.

8 P.M. The night is delightful, the moon shining brightly, a very gentle breeze and the sea like glass

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96th Day

Saturday, May 30th

Weather – Very fine with a strong breeze

This morning we passed the Bay of Islands, and are sailing down the coast with a strong but not fair wind, about breakfast time a group of Rocks called the Hen and Chickens came into view and in a short time we were abreast of them, while right ahead on the Port Bow was the Great and Little Barrier Islands looming up. We hoped to be able to weather the latter one but on coming up found it impossible and had to put the ship about for the first time in nearly two months.

The appearance of the

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country is most encouraging and cheerful. At 4 o’clock we all sat down to an excellent dinner consisting of Pork, Mutton, Lamb, Tarts etc etc etc, with no small quantity of Champagne, Port and Sherry. The cloth having been removed, Captain Mariss rose to move that the address which had been prepared should be read, thanking the Captain and Officers for their uniform kindness, civility and gentlemanly conduct during the voyage. For details vide the columns of the “New Zealander”. Before proceeding further, a word or two as to the address, for some time the subject had occupied the minds of us all, as to what should be the character of the Testimonial, it

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having been decided that one should be given, many and various were the propositions made on this point, those with large animal propensities, suggested a dinner to be given on arrival, and the same to be published in the local “Papers”, others that a subscription be made and a piece of Plate or something combining use with ornament be presented, others that the monies so subscribed be presented with a requested that the Captain would make the purchase for himself on arriving in England. Each party warmly advocated his or their plan as being most suitable and worthy of acceptance, in expressing my opinion on plan No. 1 I gave great offence

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I contended that the Captain could have as good a dinner on board his own ship as the passengers could give him in Auckland, and at far less expense, and that in my opinion no compliment, or acknowledgement of kindness received and appreciated, would be paid by adopting such a course. Oh, but they said it was the old English fashion, well, I said, be it so, but you must bear in mind that in England there is always some substantial token presented at the dinner, and if they were prepared to go “the whole animal”: in carrying out the fashion, I would have no objection. I knew they would not do that as their jackets were not capable of bearing the expense of Dinner and Plate.

Plan No. 2 was the one I supported

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and also suggested at first the objections to it, was that you would have to pay so much for a Cup, in Auckland, of inferior quality and design, well, I replied that we cannot help, let us have the best the Town will afford and we can do no better.

Plan No. 3 was deemed of too insulting a character to be adopted, to place in the hand of a gentleman the sum of about fourteen pounds with a request that he would please himself on arrival home.

For some time the matter remained in abeyance and I heard nothing more of it until about 2 or three days ago when my opinion was asked as to the address, and that in addition

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to the presentation of it, there should be a limited quantity of Champagne etc etc ordered in which the health of the Commander and Officers were to be drunk, the expense of which to be borne equally by all. As that appeared to be the most economical I could not refuse consent.

To resume, Captn Mariss’s proposition was seconded, and Mr Oliver proceeded to read the address, which was responded to by our worthy Captain in nearly the following words –

Ladies and Gentlemen, I rise to acknowledge the great kindness which has been evinced toward myself and the Officers under my command in the address which has just been presented to me. It gives us great pleasure to find that our efforts

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to make things comfortable and agreeable have not failed and that had we done less, we should not have done our duty. In conclusion I beg to return my sincere thanks for the honour you have done us and sincerely hope that every success may attend all who will, at least for a time, have to settle in New Zealand.

The Chief and Second Mates also said a few words to the same effect, everything went off in the most orderly fashion, the Captain and Officers now went on Deck as the navigation was becoming very difficult. I also went, in the main chains was a man with the Lead and Line and every five minutes or so, calling out

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in a chanting tone “and a half fourteen”, everything was in bustle and confusion, the Carpenter was quite “Mopsey [indecipherable]’ and kicking up a row with everyone, Officers not excepted. He was ordered to his Berth or be put ”in durance”.

I walked the deck until about 12 P.M. when I went up on the Forecastle and there stood the “Bosen”, Maul in hand, waiting the order to “let go” whilst standing there the Carpenter rushed up in a state of nudity and wanted to jump overboard. He was laid hold of and again taken below, in a few moments I heard the Captain saying “all ready for-ed”, “all ready Sir” was the reply, another minute, and then “Let go”, one blow with the Maul was given and the great Anchor was diving down to find the bottom. The crew was scampering up the “Ratlines”

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to stow the sails, and I was walking aft to go to bed, in a state of mind very difficult to describe – Glad, sincerely glad, we had again dropped the Anchor, and feeling very anxious as to the future, but I hope truly grateful to Almighty God for his unbounded mercy and love toward us, in having preserved us from all harm, peril and danger for more than three months over the treacherous deep distance of so many thousands of miles.

Praise be to His name for ever and ever.

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97th Day

Sunday, May 31st

Weather – Fine morning but showery

We slept well during the night from the Ship being motionless in the morning I rose about ½ past six and went on Deck, the Signal was flying for the Pilot and some 12 miles away on our Port Side lay the Town of Auckland, with the aid of the Glass we could make out a few buildings and a Windmill, on the top of a hill just underneath the land, was to be seen a “Sail” bearing down upon us it was the Pilot’s Cutter, the country was looking beautiful but entirely denuded of every thing like a Tree, they having been all cut

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building purposes and Firewood the Hills were covered with Fern and Brushwood, and the whole aspect and view were entirely un-english, and foreign, We now went below to breakfast and when about half over the Pilot was alongside, what a rush to the Deck took place to see if he was anything like a human being, and to ask a hundred and one questions, on getting there we found he had come off in a most beautiful Cutter was an Englishman, not tattooed, was affable and courteous, and had brought some Newspapers, but foolish man had forgotten the Beefsteaks and Potatoes, on my asking him when he saw us he said at daylight, that we had been expected some days

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the times very dull, and business very slack in Auckland his name was Burgess had been out here eleven years, and did not intend returning to England again to settle, we now went below and finished our breakfast and was soon on Deck again the Crew were heaving up the anchor to the tune “Cheerly Man O” Hauly I ho” Cheerly Man, Hand him up I ho.” and about 11 A.M. we were again under sail beating up the Bay the Rain coming down in very heavy Showers, a Steamer was also going in the “Wonga Wonga” from the South, about 1 P.M. we were abreast of “Rangi Tota” a most picturesque Island covered with Fern and Brushwood called Te Tree, used wholly for Firewood, its

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shores abounding with Oysters to be had for gathering, we could now see our number flying at the Telegraph announcing to the denizens of Auckland our arrival, we were now coming up to the “North Head” a most enchanting looking spot and about 3 P.M. we again dropped the Anchor just abreast of it, in a very short time we had Custom House Officers, Editors, and Agents, aboard, as we were the latest news, inconsequence of the derangement caused to the Postal service by the aforesaid “William Denny” going ashore, the small Mail we had brought was taken ashore in the Customs Boat, the Editors had scraped all

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the News together, they could, get, the Agents had congratulated the Captain, and in a short time we were left alone, and they were rowing away home again, we went below to dinner there was not much eaten, the excitement being too great, in a short time all were busy packing up for going ashore on the morrow, four of our fellow voyagers went ashore at a cost of five shillings each, one of them an Irishman by name Reirdon, he went in search of his Father who had been out here some 19 years, and was now reputed wealthy, there is a very curious tale attaching to them, one day some 19 years ago Mr Reirdon and his Wife were walking the streets of Cork, when he turned to his better half and said that he would just step and see

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whether he could not find a more genial and agreeable spot for them two dear selves, and two children to vegetate in, than Cork he left her in the street there and then and they never saw each other from that time, it appears he wrote and sent money occasionally which was intercepted by his sister and their probable present Meeting has been brought about through the instrumentality of the Roman Catholic Bishop here, and the one in Cork. Night closed in on us and we retired to our Berths to pack up some of the small things, the Ship was being literally turned upside down and about 11 P.M. we went to Bed for the last Sunday night on board.

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Monday, June 1st

Weather – Very fine morning and day, a strong breeze blowing

We rose early this morning with the intention of going ashore as soon as possible, immediately after breakfast the Pilot came on board to take us a little higher up, to where the Powder was to be discharged, as Ships having such on board are not allowed to come within a certain distance of the Town, about 12 we dropped anchor again, and Watermen’s Boats were coming off in numbers, in one of which was the long lost, truant, Dan ‘Reirdon, and his Son, his wife was on the Main Deck waiting his arrival and trembling from head to foot, poor soul, she dreaded, yet longed for the interview and then to die,

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the Boat is at the foot of the Ladder the old Lady is on the point of fainting but is held up by some of the bystanders, young hopeful, Dan the Younger, jumps on the Deck in high glee, and with an air implying Ive” found him at last, shakes hands with all within reach, and is about half seas over, his Mother’s eyes are intently gazing to the Gangway eager to catch the first glimpse of the next figure that shall make its appearance, he comes, she recognizes him, her lips blanch, and her hands drop powerless, he is now standing on the top of the Ladder looking very Keenly and enquiringly, his organ of individuality seems to be not so strongly developed

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as his wife’s, he walks cautiously down the Ladder, at the same time looking intently in the direction of where his wife is standing, he draws near, takes her by the hand, and is in the act of saluting her, but the old lady averts her head, and commences calling out “Oh Dan”! “Oh Dan”! “Oh Dan’! Dan, Dan, Dan, at last he imprints a Kiss and they retire below, in going down below the old Man slips a roll of Notes into her hand, by way of making things square, after so long an absence, The old chap by that act appeared to Know, or had not forgotten the readiest way to the human heart, it would appear ignorant and ungallant to confine to the hearts of the feminine gender only

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in a very short time after witnessing the foregoing scene Dear Emma and I descended the Ladder, from thence into a Boat and in about ½ hour we were landed on the “Wynyard Pier” the Boatman charging us four shillings each. This Pier was built by Colonel Wynyard, of wood, it stretches out to a considerable distance in the Official Bay, and is a very pretty, substantial erection, forming at all times an agreeable and pleasing promenade to the inhabitants in the immediate vicinity, after paying our fares we picked up our traps and made the best of our way into the town on reaching the top of the Hill, where stands St Pauls Church, a fearful squall of wind and rain came on I looked down the steep street before us, and my heart sunk within me

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I turned and looked, with a tear in my eye at our good ship Hark-Away, laying quite and easy at her moorings and resting after a long and stormy voyage I could almost hear her saying, oh! my old companions, the time has come when we must bid adieu to each other, I have been sorely tumbled and tossed about for more than three months in hail, rain, and sunshine, yet I have been faithful and obedient and have brought you all to New Zealand in health and safety, no serious accident, in illness, save to one, has happened during the whole time, I have performed my duty to you all with almost parental affection and Kindness and now you must bestir yourselves you are in a fine field, competence is within the reach of all, provided you are steady, sober

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industrious, and now once more adieu, by this time the squall had passed over, and we again emerged from our shelter under the Church, which is a neat structure with a small spire built of Brick or Scorie and plastered over, on one corner of it stands a very chaste obelisk erected to the memory of its former Chaplain, its inscription set forth in eloquent language the many rare virtues, and unsurpassed moral worth of the departed one, my mind reverted to the Lines, “Praises on Tombs are Trifles vainly spent &c. &c, we had now to descend Shortland St, and also to enquire for Mr Francis whom we found located in Gt Queen St carrying on the business of a Tin Plate Worker, he very Kindly invited us in

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to the small Parlour behind the Shop and made us sit down while he got out the Brandy Bottle and Bread and Butter, after sitting and talking some time, I rose to go and deliver the Parcel and Letter to Mr Ligar on my way thither I was overtaken by our worthy Skipper who was hastening on board, well Mr Heropath what do you think of Auckland? really Captain I am almost staggered, so am I, and with a hasty shake of the hand we parted in sight of the Ship My eyes followed him with a longing desire that I was like him, able to return to old England,
I soon found what was once Mr Ligar’s office, now an abandoned broken down looking place, with broken windows, and covered with

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cobwebs, a man passing just at the time told me that I must go to the Land Office opposite, I did so, and found that the gentleman whom I wanted to see was gone to Melbourne and would return in about two months, when he would be leaving altogether. I now retraced my steps through the almost impassable mud to Mr Francis’s where we had Tea, we were feeling very tired and wanted to go to Bed Mr F came with us out to Official Bay to a friend of his but they could only accommodate one, we went a little lower down where we succeeded; what a treat it was to lay down in a clean Bed, on a Bedstead, and in a nice little room the thing appeared almost impossible in a very short time were sound asleep.

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Tuesday, June 2nd

Weather – A most glorious day

This morning we awoke very much refreshed, and in better spirits, we went down stairs and the good lady of the house, had prepared a very nice breakfast, consisting of Fried Potatoes and Bacon Bread and Butter with Coffee we never enjoyed a meal better for which we paid together with the Bed, four shillings, 2/s each a most moderate charge.

We then left to find the Rev Thos Hamer for whom we had two letters, we had no difficulty in finding him he his a most kind and worthy man, we had a long chat together, which included his experience on first landing in Auckland of the two ones

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I think was the best, he did all he could to reassure us, and intimated that as soon as we were acclimatized we should be very sorry to have to leave New Zealand, now was the winter season, every thing was dull, and dreary but said he, only let another month or so pass and then you will be delighted with the place. For the first year he had to contend against great difficulties, no Church or People, he preached in a large room on Sundays, where dancing was every night in the week, many advantageous offers were made from Australia but he refused them all, determined to effect his object here, and to all appearance he has thoroughly succeeded, he has been here about six years, and in that time he has purchased a nice

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allotment, built a most handsome and commodious house in a most delightful situation overlooking Freemans Bay, and the Waitemaita River also a large piece of land close to our house on which stands his Chapel a large wooden edifice, the inside fittings consist of open seats with Backs to them just like those you see in London in Public Rooms where Meetings are held and for a Pulpit a raised Dais with a Rail and Balusters of a circular form there is also an Harmonium, played by a Mr Woodham one of the deacons I don’t Know whether he is any relative of your Mr Woodham, or not, there is not a brush of Paint on the inside he has just enlarged it some 30 ft and intends some day to build a better one, and use the present one for School Rooms

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After partaking of Luncheon he walked out with us to look out for a house, with his advice we took our present abode a small Brick built cottage of four rooms, no upstairs, for which we pay 14/s per week, we then all three walked in the Town and by him introduced to some of the most respectable people in the place, we packed early in the evening and we went on board the Harkaway, under the impression that all our things would be landed the following morning, the Captain very Kindly received us and enquired of us as to our prospects, soon after we sat down to a good dinner of Roast Beef, and Boiled Mutton with plenty of fresh vegetables, a great treat to us all, we then went below to pack up all the small things and ultimately to go to Bed

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Wednesday, June 3rd

Weather – A most delightful day. The sun very hot.

At breakfast time this morning we were informed the Luggage could not be landed to day but would be to morrow positively we had therefore to choose, whether we remained on board, or go on Shore again, as the latter course was an expensive affair we preferred remaining where we were, our fellow passengers were very busy pulling down their Berths and rendering confusion worse confused, however the day passed away pleasantly enough, many were the short confabs held as to the locality and future prospects on the whole I found myself as well, if not better off than any of them.

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Thursday, June 4th

Weather – Very fine day but chilly

We rose this morning at six, and was busily engaged until breakfast time packing up the Bed and Bedding, pulling down the Berth, and finally clearing out our Cabin and seeing the whole hoisted on Deck, preparatory to being lowered into the Cargo Boat, which by this time was alongside, we sat down to an excellent breakfast for the last time, and shortly after we got over the side into the Cargo Boat, by going ashore in it we saved four shillings, the Boat took the ground some distance from the shore and had to wait until the Drays came off to take us ashore, just imagine our Boxes in a Cart and we perched on the top of them, the

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water up to the horse’s belly wading ashore, in a short time we set foot on dry land again and then made the best of our way, shall I say, home.

Now my dear Uncle our long and wearisome voyage has terminated, what more can I add, further, than once again we behold the green grass and beautiful flowers which rarely disappears in this beautiful climate, from the morning of leaving your house up to the present moment we can most truthfully say and heartily respond to the sentiment uttered by the Psalmist, when he said, “Surely goodness and mercy have followed us”. Therefore with our lips will we sing praises to his name.” I have in compliance with your request kept a faithful daily record of the events

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which have transpired since leaving England, and I hope the perusal will afford that amount of pleasure you have been so long anticipating. One word more, I hope you will afford all our dear relatives the opportunity of reading this Diary as it would be imposing too great a task on myself to write one for each of them. I have dedicated it to you as it was a matter of special arrangement betwixt us prior to our embarkation.

Note. For the, Ships Course, Latitude, Longitude, and Distance run each Day, I am indebted to the Chief Officer, who has kindly lent me the Ships Log Book to copy from. By the, Distance run, you must

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understand, the number of miles run in her true course, it is quite possible for a Ship to sail over 50 or even a 100 miles more than is entered in her Log each day, but that counts for nothing, because it is not in her due course, for instance the course required is North East, for the want of a wind, fair for that direction, you are with the wind you then have, obliged to sail South West, consequently a departure from the right course takes place which has to be measured by means of the Log Line and recorded, the wind veers and you are able to come up a few points, the distance run in that direction is recorded, and the next day at noon, those two distances are worked out by figures and the mean of the two taken for the

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true course, so you will see that in a long voyage, a Ship has to sail some thousands of miles more than she logs. Great Circle Sailing is a mode of Navigation adopted to shorten the distance from one given point to another given point, for example from London to New Zealand on arriving at the Line, and after crossing it, you run away due South if you can as high as 55° we went to about 47° on the latter degree of Latitude the degrees of Longitude are about 41 Geographical Miles whereas on the Line they are 60 when we were in Latitude 47° South our Longitude was about 27° West so that from that point we had to run down about 200 degrees of Longitude New Zealand being in 174° East or thereabouts you will readily perceive how that

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object is achieved, instead of running down 200 degrees of 60 Miles each we had to run down 200 degrees of 41 Miles each, saving about 19 miles on a degree, but then I must add, that having run down your Longitude on the 47th Parallel of South Latitude you have then about 14° of Northing to make, or in other words you have to come back in the direction of North as New Zealand is in about 33° South, to sum up the matter in a few words I will say that a person has to perform a journey from one side of a Mountain to the nearly opposite point, instead of going right up one side and down the other, he prefers going round the Base such is the pith and marrow of Great Circle Sailing –

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Note – As there is plenty of paper remaining to be filled up, and beleiving it will be interesting to you to Know what Kind of place Auckland is, its Situation, extent, number of inhabitants, with their habits, moral, social and religious, and any other matter connected therewith which may suggest itself, I will very briefly give you

My First Impressions.

Of course the first is the begining, that was received on Friday, May 29th the 95th day out from Plymouth, when we sighted the, “Three Kings,” although they were nothing but barren rocks there was something about them

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having the appearance of ease and freedom from care, there was nothing of the extreme sterile about them, the hues of the scanty vegetation that supported were not harsh or forbidding, but on the contrary an harmonious blending ran through the whole, it is possible the eye may have exaggerated, from the fact that it had not seen any for so long a period, and no doubt “distance lent enchantment to the view-.” but for impression the first, suffice it to say it was satisfactory and pleasing, and I am happy to say that in sailing down the coast, nothing appeared of sufficient import to induce me to qualify.

My next impression was received on Sunday morning May 31st when

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the Pilot came on board, his beautiful Cutter was admired by every one, the pink of cleanliness and order, I thought well, the Colonial Government pay some attention to the appearance of their vessel, the first which generally comes under the notice of fresh arrivals, who as a rule expect to see something, more of a primitive character, and that will be more in Keeping with their preconceived opinions, now had the Pilot been a “Maori,” tall and stalwart, his face tattooed in the most chaste designs of Scroll work in commemoration of some great and valorous achievement in Native warfare his nether person enveloped in a ragged, red blanket, and sailing in a Canoe made out of a large Kauri Pine tree, with the everlasting

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Pipe in his mouth, and a Sharks Tooth, or a piece of Blue Stone suspended from the right ear and another tobacco Pipe through the large hole in his left, the idea of being in the environs of Auckland New Zealand would have been most fully borne out, but on the contrary there came up the side, and then on the Poop, a decently attired, well behaved man, clothed in similar apparel to ourselves, speaking the same language and Kindly enquiring of our voyage, health, and comfort, and then put into our hands the local broadsheet, now the impression from the foregoing was that we were not come to the land of savages and cannabalism, but to a thriving community of English, Irish and Scotchmen.

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Monday morning came and with it an impression I can hardly describe it was a compound, of joy, gladness, hope, and disappointment, the latter preponderating, but in a peculiar sense that word must be understood, it was not disappointment arising from the squalid, wretched, and poor appearance of the buildings, or the limited and contracted extent of the Town, but quite the opposite, before me lay in the glorious sunshine, a large, well built, though scattered suburb, (the Town itself was hid from view) displaying a very large amount of taste and judgement, both in the selection of sites and the erection of the dwellings I will select a few of the most prominent buildings as a sample, to bear out my feelings of disappointment, here

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it may be well to let you know the exact cause of the disappointment, I thought when I embarked at Gravesend that the country to which we were bound was one standing very much in need of a good mechanic, with some little Knowledge of not only his own peculiar business, but possessing some capabilities in many other things, and that this land would be just the place to turn them to the best advantage, but the impression was a fallacious one, there are as good draughtsmen and artisans here as in England, but not anything like so numerous, the attractions have been so strong that all classes of society have eagerly embraced them, the greater proportion being, not direct frome home, but from Australia.
To return to the Buildings, first there

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is the Wynyard Pier, not quite so elaborate or extensive as the one at Brighton, but still a most convenient substantive wooden erection, affording every convenience for Ships Boats to come alongside and take in water, that essential of life being brought down in Pipes from some little distance in land, specially for that purpose.

A little to the left, on the top of the Hill stands Government House, commanding a delightful view of the Bay and the North Shore, the Head & Rangi Tota, while in the distance to the right the blue peaks of Coramandel pierce the azure vault of heaven, and at whose base the Gold lays in profusion, but more of that Anon,

It is a wooden building, painted to

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imitate “Bath Home” and at the first glance you would most assuredly say it was a stone building the deception is so good, its height is two storeys, with a Centre and two Wings, and the design is a very elegant one.

To the left still, nearer the water is the Legislative House of Assembly also a two storied wooden erection painted white, while to the left of all, lays the picturesque environs of Auckland called Parnell, it may be termed the St Johns Wood, or Hyde Park Gardens of Auckland one prominent object is a small but very pretty Church, of wood, built on a point of land jutting into the Bay. Behind Government House, on the apex of the Hill, is the Barracks, rather extensive in its proportions, with a

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high Loop Holed will of Scosia enclosing it, and commanding the whole of the Town.

On the Hill to the right of the Pier and opposite to that on which the Buildings enumerated stand, is St Pauls Church, a very neat little structure with Buttresses and a small dumpy Spire.

Further to the right is the Artillery Barracks, built of Scosia, which sweeps the whole of the entrance and away up the Waitemata River. Returning a short distance from the last mentioned, we come to the top of Shortland St, which is very steep, on either side are houses and Shops, all of wood with one or two exceptions, one of the exceptions is a Brick Building in which the

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business of a Draper is carried on, it is very plain but substantially built, and cost I have been told seven thousand pounds, to me a more than fabulous sum, such a house and Shop could be erected in London, with a handsome profit to the builder, for about eight hundred, in this Street are the offices of the two local Newspapers, the “New Zealander,” and the “Southern Cross,” the former Conservative, the latter Radical at the bottom is a few good Shops just as good as you would see in such a neighbourhood as Camden Town barring the Plate Glass, although there are three here who can boast of that article on their premises on the right Hand Side is the Custom House with a Clock in front and all

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built of Wood, Wood, Wood, and nothing but Wood, here it is of little or no value, alone, it’s the labour and cartage which raises it to the current price.

To the right is Queen St Pier now in course of erection, extending a very long way into the Bay, it is built of wood. The Piles on which the structure is raised, possesses the rare and valuable property (for Marine works) of not being affected by sea insects, or rot, it is called “Toe Tara” Pine, invulnerable to all but Fire, in addition to the Pier ground has been reserved for commodious Docks, these latter works are being carried on under the auspices of the Colonial Government.

Retracing our Steps from the Pier

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we come to the commencement of “Great Queen St” the Cheapside of Auckland, but minus the nice Rockhill Home, Foot Pavements, and the Aberdeen Granite Carriage Ways, the substitutes are, broken Scoria for the one, and first rate Brick Clay for the other, which at this season of the year is anything but pleasant to walk on. In this street is Mr Forsaith’s establishment no quite so expensive as MeeKing’s, or Shootbred’s, still a very snug comfortable looking little Brick Store with two windows, in one of which is Drapery, in the other a miscellaneous assortment, of Tea Pots, Toast Racks, Knives & Forks and Books, the Front is Stuccoed with Pilasters, Corinthian Caps and Cornice in short the best and most stylish business building in the place.

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To sum up the buildings there are Steam Flour Mills, one Windmill, Public Houses in abundance, and a number of decent Shops vending every necessary, comfort, and a few of the elegances of life. From what I have enumerated I think you will say there was some little ground for disappointment, and that the impression was not altogether wrong. As to the situation of Auckland and its extent.

It lays close to the Water, the Shore is being gradually covered with Houses and Merchants Warehouses, some of them Scoria built, Timber Yards, and other retail places of business some of which do a first rate trade with the Natives, in all Kinds of produce, the article “Kauri Gum” forms a most important staple of

[Noted in margin: Note, The words, “Maori, plural Maories and Kauri.” are pronounced Mowry and Cowry, the former the name of the Natives, as English, French Scotch &c &c]

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trade, its present price is about from ten to eleven pounds per Ton the prince in England is about £35, a few words as to what it is, and how procured; with the purpose it serves after undergoing the process of manufacture. Kauri Gum is a natural production of the Tree bearing that name, it bleeds itself at a certain season of the year at the Tap Root, the fluid permeates the ground directly underneath, where in course of time it congeals, and ultimately solidifys, bye and bye the Bushman’s Axe lays the Tree low, leaving the Gum behind in the earth, the Merchant who has bought the Timber cuts it up on the Spot and sends it to market the “Maories” come after him and with a long Iron Rod search the ground

[Noted in the margin: the latter the name of the Timber, used for all and every purpose almost, House Building, Furniture &c &c &c]

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just as London Grave Diggers do to find a Coffin, finding something hard underneath they conclude it is the Gum, and directly set about digging it out, in lumps varying in size from that of an egg to a large Turnip after scraping away all extraneous matter it is ready for the market, the color is a dirty white, very brittle, and possesses a strong and pleasant odour.

It is used to make the best and most costly Varnishes, such as is used for Carriages, Pictures, &c &c &c

In order to make you as familiar as is possible by a written description with the position and extent of the Town; imagine yourself on the Surrey side of Blackfriars Bridge you are then at the end of Queen St Pier, in walking over the Bridge

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you are coming off the Pier, at the end of Bridge St, is the end of Queen Sts you have not to walk quite so far from there, to the commencement of Shortland St as it is to Fleet St but occupying the same relative position. Standing at “Waithmans Pillar” you have Shortland St on the left, West Queen St on the right, the Bay and Pier Behind you, while in a straight line before is Queen St, in the valley, with a very steep hill on either side, its length is about the same as Farringdon St about the middle of Queen St on the right is Wyndham St at the top of which is the Roman Catholic Chapel, Scoria built with a profusion of Stained Glass Windows in other respects plain and substantial its position would be about the Middle of the “Old Bailey” only up a steeper hill.

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The next main turning on the same side is Victoria St, answering to Skinner St, only very much steeper, on the top and at right angles, is Hobson St running in the same direction as Compten St but not ending in “……….” as that does. where now we live would be at the end of Newgate in Newgate St, passing on down the hill you arrive at Freemans Bay which would be at the end of Cheapside we will now retrace our steps back into Queen St, staring from Shortland St on the left, we have no streets on the left although dignified with the name but there are two or three dirty turnings in character the same as Harp Alley at the front of Holborn Hill is a large Public House, going up the Hill, on the site of Turnivals Inn is the Barracks overlooking the whole of the Town and

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Harbour, with Government House at Middle Row, the House of Assembly halfway down Chancery Lane, Mechanic Bay, in Lincolns Inn Fields, Parnell, occupying the purlieu of Drury Lane and its environs. We are again at the front of Holborn Hill, but instead of going up Victoria St to Islington we are walking up a much steeper hill called Wakefield St, very near the top on the right is the Wesleyan College a spacious Brick built edifice supported principally, I believe, by members of that persuasion both lay and clerical, here, and in the neighbouring Isles of the Southern Seas, on the top of a very large Windmill almost incessantly clearing the air with its bony and gaunt arms about the position of Tafforn Hill is the Odd Fellows Hall a very decent looking

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Building, and in which Lectures are delivered to the young men forming the “Christian Association”, you now wend your way up the Hill to the Windmill, and the Cemeteries, behind it, each denomination of religionists have a separate Ground. A Large Wooden Cross indicating the Roman Catholic one.

From the summit of the Hill we have a magnificent view of the outer and inner harbour and surrounding country, turning right about, and at the distance of about 2 miles is “Mount Eden” a very large mountain with an extensive, but extinct crater on its summit surmounted with a Flagstaff, walking on a short distance we come to the “Khyber Pass Road” which takes you to Newmarket, a place where al

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the cattle is sold and slaughtered for home consumption.

You are now in the Road for “Onehunga” “Ohahu” and several other places, the former is the place where all the Pensioners sent out some 10 years since are located, upon their acre of land and cottage. I should not omit to say that the Roads here about are as good as any in England, and Kept in equal order and condition. To finish up the extent, you must run your eye over the localities indicated, and in addition imagine the Hill Sides and Valley Thickly dotted with houses of all sizes, styles, and shapes, the whole, with a few exceptions Wood Built, and covered with Shingles. According to the returns of the last Census the Number of inhabitants were I am given go understand about 11000

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Since writing the foregoing I have enquired of Mr Hamer, and he informs me that the white population in Auckland, is about 8000, in the Province 12000 – I now come to the, Habits, what there is to say on his point must of necessity be very limited, in commercial transactions I am given to understand, their Motto is, “Ready Money is the Life of Trade”, with the almost total absence of chicanery and Misrepresentation, I need not mention a part of the World where the contrary is the case. Their mode of doing business is through the Medium of Actions, which are held almost every day, consignments of Goods and every description of Merchandise are mostly disposed of in that way, hence, things can be bought, sometimes, very reasonable but then there is this advantage “quick returns’. From a sale list I read a day or two since

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which included almost everything there were those words at the bottom Terms “All purchases under £30 Cash, above that sum, approved Bill for three Months”.

They are a very sober, abstemious people, there are many reasons why they should be so, first, the price of all Malt Liquours is so very high, English Ale 1/s per pint London Porter 1/s, Colonial Do 6/d per pint Rum 3/06 per Glass, a Nobler of Brandy 6/d, those being the current prices for that which transforms a Man into a Beast, you will readily conceive the state of surprise and astonishment into which all New Comers are thrown, and the consequent resolution then Made, to discontinue drinking in “Toto” and take to the substitute, Tea or Coffee. This in my opinion is the most tangible reason, why, people who come out here

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arrive at that pleasant state of existence “health, peace, and competence”, in comparatively so few years, again a Man who indulges in his Cup is Known to all the town, and is treated accordingly, many more reasons will suggest themselves, to those who are acquainted with the merits of a sober life, and the demerits of an opposite course, to enable them to say why, the “Aucklanders”, should be a Sober People. You must not infer from what I have said that there are No Drunkards in Auckland far, very far, from that, if one can form an opinion from the fact of 9 New Public Houses being opened yesterday, July 1st 57. As to their sociability, I don’t think there are many, set, dinner or tea parties, time is to valuable to indulge in the old World practices and usages, but on the contrary there is always a welcome, to Bed and Board when such comforts are required

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Hitherto, we have found all our neighbours, and those we have been introduced to, very Kind, and anxious for our well doing all have a Kind word of encouragement to offer, they have had to pass through the the ordeal themselves, one gentleman a Mr Warner told us the other evening we ought to be very thankful for the comforts we have, for said he, when I came to the Colony, the Ladies had to cook the dinner out of doors, in an Iron Pot stuck up on three large stones, with an Umbrella over her head to Keep off the rain, and patterns on her feet to keep the Shoes out of the Mud. References are always made to people who are now ell off in the world; something after this manner, - There lives Mr So and So, he came out here about 10 years ago without a penny, now he lives retired

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and is a person of ample means, from our limited experience I cannot say more on this head at present, but in conclusion will add the hope, that reference will be made to me in a similar manner in the same number of years from this time. I now come to the last though not the least viz. their religious Habits, from the number of places for Public Worship, one is led to suppose society is largely imbued with religious principle, I confine myself to the various denominations of Protestant Dissenters, there being a very large number of Romanists here, which forms a very powerful body for political purposes. I am sorry to find there is not that spirit of union existing amongst the various Christian Dissenting Bodies which one could have desired, since they all profess to serve one common Lord and Master

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Jesus Christ – The Baptists appear to be very active in their efforts to promulgate their own particular views, especially with regard to Adult Immersion, they even to so far as to say that without it, you are ”beyond the pale of Salvation”

As a matter of course in a limited population like this, every one is anxious to increase the number of their hearers, consequently the religious opinions and views of one Minister is set strongly in opposition to those of another, as a sample I will give you a case in point, told me only the other evening by one of the principals in the affair –

A respectable tradesman, with, I suppose an average intellect, had been in the habit of attending the Ministrations of Mr A for some considerable time, he then appeared

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to have fallen across Mr B, who holding those ultra views on Immersion, failed not to set them forth in the strongest light before him, the result has been that he has entirely given up attending Mr A’s Church and has not joined Mr B’s, and there he is in a perfect Quandary, each Minister waits upon him alternatively in short they make him the battle ground on which to fight out each one’s creed. It is a most lamentable sight to witness such an instance among professing Christians, what a weapon does it put into the hand of the
Sceptic, and Infidel wherewith to assault pure and vital religion, my prayer to God, is, to keep me from such rank dogmatism and impact His holy Spirit to guide and direct us in the right way to eternal life. Having very briefly gone through “seriatim” the first part of the matter indicated

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in the note at the commencement of the Impressions.

I now come to that which will be more miscellaneous in character, and necessarily more disconnected. I will begin with the “Maories or Natives”. From those I have seen, I can with truth say, they are the finest race of men that have ever come under my notice, the Males especially. They are not a fat bloated people, their average height would be about 5 ft 9 inches, beautifully proportioned, and very strong, their color varies very much from a dark copper to that of a Spaniard or Portugese, their faces are tailored in the most chaste patterns, chiefly scrolls, commencing with two straight lines down the nose, ending in a scroll on either side. As a rule, I believe, those who are most beloved have distinguished themselves, by some chivalrous act or heroic deed of valour.

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Since New Zealand has become a dependency of the British Crown native warfare has very much declined, and the practice of tattooing along with it, many of the younger men are not tattooed, and with some of them in the European costume, it is almost difficult to recognize them from a deeply sunburnt Englishman.

Some of them are very wealthy, one old Chief by the name of “Old Jemmy Toe Tara” is considered about one of the wealthiest. They are inordinately fond of Gold Sovereigns, will not take paper money, nor on any account give Credit, but on the contrary will take as much as you like to give them. They are strictly honourable in their dealings and never forget an attempt to cheat or deceive. With their great love of money they do not possess the power to retain it, very few of them are misers, as soon as it

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comes into possession, it is made a Joint Stock of and applied to the purchase of a coasting vessel or a large boat, either of which they are exceedingly fond of.

There is an old Chief living at Kaiparia, about 40 miles from here in the Bay of Islands, who has adopted the English name of Walker; he is the owner of a most beautiful little Smack, called the “Petrel” and is a regular Trader between the settlements in that locality and Auckland. This man and his two nephews are the faithful allies of Her Majesty Victoria the First, and greatly distinguished themselves in the late War in the North of the Island – all three have a pension from the Government of one hundred pounds per annum.

I have had the honour of shaking hands with “Johnny Walker” one

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of the Nephews referred to, excepting “Hales” the Norfolk Giant, he is the largest man I ever saw, his height I should think is quite 6 ft 2 inches and big with all, with a face, lined, interlined, scrolled and designed all over, even back to the ears. The interview took place on the Pier, I had occasion to go there one day shortly after arrival and whilst waiting, he came up to me and in the most courteous, affable manner held out his hand, which with a slight tremor I took, and a hearty shake followed. I don’t know whether he saw I was newly imported or not, very likely he did, as they are the most acute race under the Sun.

His dress consisted of a Straw Hat, Blue Woollen Frock, White Fustian Trousers, and a pair of thick, nailed half boots, the latter, by no means an improvement or addition to his powers of locomotion.

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In the north of the Island they are far more numerous than in this immediate locality, and are more wealthy, some of them keeping the finest Racehorses in New Zealand, they come out every year very grand indeed, on the Course at Epsom, situate about seven miles from here. There is always a Regatta annually in the Harbour, where they contend for the prizes, usually with success. I have been informed there is one prize, for which Natives alone row for in their war canoes, in their own fashion. Each Canoe is capable of carrying a hundred of them, ninety are rowers, or more properly speaking Paddlers, the other ten stand upright, their heads bedizened with Feathers, Sharks teeth, and any other finery they can command, with Spears or Tomahawks in their hands, inciting

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and gesticulating, in the most approved Native style.

In years gone by it has been customary, after the rowing is over, to give them a feast, the cost defrayed by the inhabitants, consisting of Fish, Potatoes, Sugar and Tobacco, and afterwards wind up the day’s amusement by dancing their War Dance, for the performance of which they generally select the roughest piece of ground they can find, the more broken glass bottles and other sharp cutting substances there is on the ground, so much the better, the object being to produce excitement from some cause or other, and that of pain and torture they, I suppose, consider the best.

Those you see in the town are dressed in every variety of costume, from the Native Cloak made of Flax, to the black broadcloth suit of the European. Large numbers of them

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wear only a Blanket, and those of different colors, white, red and blue. there must be an immense trade done with them in this article alone, for they are put on new and never done anything to until replaced by another, some others dress “a la Anglaise” and as before observed are very difficult to recognize.

They are a people by no means fond of hard work, in fact they are too proud and independent to do so, their wants are very few, their food consists principally of Fish and Potatoes, the former they can catch in any quantity in the Bay, of two sorts, known by the name of “Snapper” and a very fine fish corresponding to our Salmon – the name I can’t write but it is something like this, “Kahuai”. Of course there is the never failing pipe and tobacco, of which they consume large quantities, American Negro head.

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The Colonial Legislature have passed very stringent laws prohibiting the sale to them (by Europeans) of Gunpowder, Percussion caps, Fire arms of any description, and Spirituous liquors, but with all those precautions, they possess themselves of all the articles named, chiefly through the cupidity of Englishmen, who carry on the contraband trade under the guise of coasters, and a system of barter, a Bushel of Wheat for a Bottle of Gin, sometimes cash payments, only let a “Maori” make up his mind to have a thing and its enough, price is never an obstacle with them.

As an instance, you will remember the old musket I brought out with me, a “Maori” saw it and wanted to purchase it, he was asked £20 for it, he shook his head intimating thereby the price asked was too much, but immediately said Ten, i.e. he would

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give £10, but of course there was no intention of selling him it for any money.

Just let us see how we should have been placed had we sold it, at the most tempting price offered. He would have immediately gone and laid an information, we should have been imprisoned (for six months I think) and in addition pay a very heavy fine, the half of which “Mr Maori” the informer would have very quietly pocketed.

I have not much to say about the “Women”. They, like their Lords and Masters, dress in every variety of apparel, from the whitest of Muslin down to the home made Flax Cloak, the common Print dresses of English make is a favourite, made like a Night Dress with a drawing string round the neck, the residue hanging loose, without Bonnets, Stockings or Shoes, they are tattooed but only on the under lip.

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They also smoke Tobacco in as large a quantity as the men. In the “Bush” White Men are thought much of by the native women, there are, I have heard, a great many Europeans living there with them, and are as a matter of course Fathers of numerous families of half castes. The women do all the work, till the ground, catch the fish, cut and bring home the firewood, cook the victuals and even fill and light the pipe of the depraved, profligate, abandoned white man, the father of her children, who when opportunity offers, leaves them all to do as they best can.

The half castes who live in the town are generally females of easy virtue, some of them are very good looking and comely and dress in the highest style of fashion, but wearing neither stockings or shoes. Their eyes are black, piercing and very wicked looking when encountering the gaze of a white man.

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So much for the “Maories”.

I will now give you a few details as to how the town is supplied with building materials. The timber used for that purpose is “Kauri Pine”, well adapted for carpenters and joiners work, it is rather harder than the Pine used in England, and of a color more resembling American Birch. You can procure it any width, from 6 inches to 4 feet, by paying the price you could get it 5 or 6 feet wide, as that is not anything out of the way, some of the trees in the “Bush” measure or would sauare up 8 ft, it is all cut in the forest and rafted down the rivers, it is sold by the “Hundred” superficial measure, reduced to one inch thick, just the same as Mahogany is sold in London. Its present price, July 19th, is 15 shillings per hundred, you have to pay the

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same price for ¾ or ½ inch. Nearly the whole of the furniture is made of the same material, in a style purely Colonial.

I have seen two Loo Tables, made of what is called “Mottled Kauri”. It is the same wood as the foregoing, but there are a series of dark oblong spots in it, when polished it looks very well, from its scarcity very little is used. Te Tree is a small kind of underwood, cut down and brought into the town in large quantities in the small coasting craft belonging to Natives. It is used only for firewood, present price 115 shillings per ton, it is supplied to you in about 4 ft. lengths, and then you have a nice job to cut and split it up. It appears to me to be available for Chair making was it properly cut and seasoned.

This is the extent of knowledge I possess

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at present in the wood line, now for a little in the Lime –

The whole of the mortar used here for Bricklayers, Plasterers and Masons work is made from Shell Lime, principally Oyster shells. I have seen cartloads of them in a heap, fish and all in them ready for burning. It is much better to burn fish and shell together, although it appears to be very wasteful so to do.

About a mile from here there is a beach where you can go and eat as many as you like every day in the year, they lay all over the coast in abundance and can be had in any quantity for the gathering. They are not very large, and hang together in bunches. They are sold in the Town at a penny a dozen, and in accordance with the antipodean principle are opened at the joint or big end,

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the joise is about one shilling and six pence per Colonial bushgel, which is I believe equivalent to one peck English.

Bricks are used, but very sparingly, they are very bad ones, so porous it is not an unusual thing during heavy rains to see the wet running down on the inside of the house as well as the out, which renders all houses so built very damp and uncomfortable. The price also operates very much against their being more largely used for building purposes, at present it is about £5 per thousand. There is not much employment here for Bricklayers as their business is slmost limited to building the Fire Places and Chimneys to Wooden houses.

Slates for Roofs are very expensive here, as they are all imported from England, very near all the houses in Auckland are covered with Shingles, which are pieces of split wood

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16 inches long, 3 or 4 wide and a half inch thick, sold in bundles of two hundred, at about 17 shillings per thousand. And after they have been on a roof a short time you could not distinguish them from the common small slating used in Devonshire.

Iron Stoves and Ranges I have not seen here at all, the Fireplaces are similar to the following – Bick hearths and Hobs by the sides and Wood Fires.

Nearly all the houses built are only one story, so there is no danger of falling downstairs, the major part of them have verandahs, some of the most tasteful style. The inside partitions are of rough ¾ inch board, canvassed and papered, there is an air of snugness and comfort about them.

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Paperhangings are about double the price here than in England, great quantities are imported from France.

Glass for windows is imported in boxes, from Smethwick near Birmingham, all cut to sizes, as it would not pay to have it in tables because of the waste in cutting for which freight must be paid. The limited quantity of plate glass now in use came from Sydney.

Painters find plenty of employment here, a few good Grainers would be very valuable. I have no doubt they could get at the rate £1 per diem.

The whole of the building trade is done by contract, the Carpenter tenders for the woodwork, the Bricklayer for the brickwork, the Painter and Glazier for his portion, and so on with the others, one man does not

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take the whole as in London, the consequence would be if he did he would have to do it all himself.

As I have told about the houses, how they are built and finished, a few words in addition concerning the Furniture they contain, the greater part of it is made of “Kauri”. Bedsteads (French), Drawers, Chairs and Tables, all made in the most homely manner, no superfluous ornament or decoration about any of it. For single people an article is used called a Stretcher, it is very like a Sofa, without the back, it is used in the daytime as the latter, and for a Bedstead at night. The prices are rather high, common chairs are £3, the half dozen drawers, from £3.10.0 to £4. Tables all prices, according to size and make.

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Large quantities are sold every week at the Public Auctions and at times can be bought very cheap. I have not seen any good furniture either in style, taste or workmanship.

To come to the other domestic utensils, their prices I am sure will greatly surprise you, to a newcomer they are frightful, crockery ware especially. The common Blue Willow Pattern Dinner Plates are 5/d each, the commonest Blue Tea Cup and Saucer 8/d, small Blue Sugar Basins 83, Glasses doz from 5 to 7 shillings, dishes, the smallest size, not less than a shilling each, a common Blue Ewer and Basin 9 shillings, “certain utensils” 3 shillings each, all the above of the most common pattern and make, such as would scarcely be saleable in England, unless in remote rural districts such as [indecipherable]

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I have not the slightest doubt that a rapid fortune might be realized by the manufacture of the coarse Pottery used in Barnstaple, such as Pitchers, Pans, Flower Pots, Painters, etc. Milk Pans, etc. etc. There is no lack of Raw Material, as soon as I can spare the time I intend making a few preliminary experiments with the view of seeing what can be done in that “Line”.

Tin goods are very expensive, a 3 pint coffee pot 2/s 6/d, 4 quart saucepan 5/s, bedroom candlestick 2/s6/d, pint pannikin ½, pepper dredger, London price 1/d, 6/d, common knives and forks 7/s6/d ½ dozen, tea pots 5 to 6/s each, with everything proportionately high.

The current prices now, July 20th, for eatables is as follows, 4 lb loaf of beautiful quality 10/d, beef, any part, 6/d per lb, pork 6/d

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mutton 8/d, butter 1/s9/d per lb, cheese 1/s, tea 2/s, coffee 1/2d, Eggs 1/s 6/d per dozen, apples 1/s 9/d per lb, lump sugar 8/d, moist sugar 6/d, rice 3/d, potatoes (very fine) 1/s per 14 lbs, mould candles, Colonial make 8/d per lb. London composite ditto 11/d and a 1/s, onions 3/d per lb, flour 3/d, salt 3/d, whiting 2/d, washing 4 to 5/s per dozen one with the other, milk (beautiful) 6/d per quart, bacon 1/s, 2 very fine fish “Kahuai” about 6 lbs each 1s. I am informed quite as good as Scotch or English Salmon and which they are very much like, both in shape and color, “Snapper” 3 for a shilling, this fish is exactly like that, called in Devonshire “Jan Doreys”. I have also seen the fish we know by the name of “Gurnet” but not in like quantity to the two former

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O, ye Tebedees, whose eyes may perchance glance over these pages, what delights await you in the Inner Harbour of Auckland, New Zealand, if you want a plenty of sport and a plenty of Fish, come over and catch them, they swarm in myriads, they are waiting to be caught, come, come come, “Stand not upon the order of coming but Come” – Kahuai, Snapper, Gurnet, and Herrings are all waiting to respond to your piscatorial skills and efficiency.

The voyage is nothing, you will be amply repaid for all the little inconveniences you may be put to, one of the finest climates in the world is here, and a beautiful country, Hill and Dale, Brake and Bier. I will suggest how you can make the trip profitable, on your return, take back a batch of “Maories”, male and female, with their War Implements, etc. etc. and exhibit them ”a la Ojibeway

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General Tom Thumb” in the Egyptian Hall, Piccadily. There can be no doubt that the adventure would be attended with large Profits.

Note. As I have in a concise and brief manner described to y ou Auckland, its position, extent, etc. etc., in the most graphic style I could command, and I may add with all truth so far as that can be attained to from my limited knowledge and experience of the place, I will as a finale give my own.

Opinions on the Future

There can be no doubt that in the course of another quarter of a century, when perhaps the flow of emigration sets in on these shores in greater numbers than has hitherto been the case, New Zealand will be another England

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in the Southern Hemisphere, with numbers, will come skill, enterprise, industry and capital, to open up to a much greater extent the at present sealed up resources of the country, as a first step to such a state of things and the inducement which will be offered is the Gold Fields of Nelson and Coromandel, the latter is a mountain range some forty miles from Auckland, it can be reached by water in a moderate sized boat, in about twelve hours more or less.

The land belongs to the Natives, and there has been no little difficulty in negotiating with them for the purchase or leasing of the same, to the Colonial Government, a Commissioner was sent and he has returned again, after making I believe a successful arrangement

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on our behalf with them, the precise nature of which has not transpired. From what I hear there will be a large number leaving Auckland in the ensuing summer to try their hands, at present the season is too wet and wintry for gold digging, in a naturally wet and swampy locality.

I have, through the kindness of Mr. Hamer, been introduced to a gentleman of the name of “Cheeseman”, and he was there some very short time since for the purpose of looking about, before leaving he stooped down and casually took up a handful of the soil which he brought home with him as a sample , and which he very kindly showed us in a basin of water. The Gold was very minute in point of size, but ample in quantity. It is mixed with fine Iron Stone sand.

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To separate the precious metal from the sand a large magnet would have to be used, there is a very striking peculiarity belonging to the Coromandel Gold, which I can best explain by giving you the copy of a letter published in this week’s “Southern Cross” and which is now lying before me.

“To the Editor of the Southern Cross

“Sir – Having been favoured with a sight of the Gold brought to town from Coromandel Harbour by John Adams and James Baker, and finding the greater portion of it to consist of precisely the same description and quality as that of a nugget weighing 5 ½ ounces which Mr. John Woodhouse placed in my hands from the same locality, when I was residing in Sydney in the early part of 1853, I am induced to send you some particulars of the quality of that description of Gold which may prove interesting to both seekers

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and purchasers of that article. The Gold in question just brought up, as well as the particular Nugget to which I allude, being so totally different from any previous samples from other places, I was induced to show it to every scientific person that I knew in Sydney, and amongst others to a gentleman then recently arrived in the Colony as Manager of a Quartz Crushing Company, who declared that he had no hesitation in saying that where that Gold was found he saw no reason why it should not be quarried out as we do stone in a stone quarry.

“After exciting a deal of curiosity in Sydney from its peculiar nature, I had several assays made, the results of which were as follows:-

“Mr Norrie, a practical chemist, gave his analysis “as 16 ¾ carat fine, of a standard value of £2.19.1 ½ per ounce”

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“Mr. Carpenter, a practical assayist (then recently from England) gave his analysis “as 17 ¼ carat fine, of a standard value of £3.1.0 ¼ per ounce, and that to one ounce of the metal there was -
      Fine Gold 14 dwts 9 grains
      Silver 5 dwts 15 grains
and that the whole nugget contained 57 percent of metal.

“After the assays, I gave a small portion of the Nugget to a relative of my own – a young man who is a very scientific assayist, who furnished me with the following more elaborate analysis. The qualitative analysis gave – Sand, Carbonate of lime, Bi-oxide of Iron. Metallic parts – Gold, Silver, Copper, Iron - Density 5, 2, 9

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The quantitative analysis gave –
        Sand 32,166
        Carbonate of Lime
          and oxide of iron 1,073
        Metal 66,761 100,000
The metal gave
        Gold 70,960
        Silver 28,380
        Copper 0,660
        Iron Traces 100,000

“The Gold is not at all equally disposed over the mass; thus one piece I picked out only contained 36 per cent of metal. The whole of the above numbers are average of six different assays done on the whole piece I had carefully pulverized, and maybe considered a good average of the total maps.

“I may again observe that the Nugget from which the above assays were made was in every aspect the same as the greater portion of that now

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in possession of John Adams and James Baker, and which appears of a distinct character from that obtained by Mr. Kevan on the Nelson Gold”.

Comment on the foregoing is unnecessary, it only remains to be proved whether it can be procured in quantity sufficient to prove remunerative to those who may be induced to leave their trade and professions for the purpose of digging.

I may add on this point, in the event of the yield being proportionate to that of Victoria, Auckland will become a most important City in an incredible short space of time. Everything in the shape of food, mining tools and the many other requirements for Gold Digging, will have to be supplied from here, which will give a great impetus s to trade of all kinds, labour of every description, skilled or unskilled, will and must

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become much more valuable than it is at present. Your own experience will justify the remark that, when the labour market is in a healthy condition, trade and business of every kind flourishes. I cannot say whether or not the temptation will not induce me to try my hand at mining for the glittering metal.

There are not many here who have not at some time of their life been Diggers, and have on an average been very successful, sufficiently so as to lay the foundation for a more steady and permanent advance in life. In this way they have left Victoria and its unhealthy climate, with their savings, have come down here, bought an allotment of land, erected a wooden house upon it, again taken to their trade and are now as journeymen in the receipt of 10/s per day.

The cost of living being not more than in

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London, with no taxes of any kind, except there is a fancy for a number of the canine race, for which the Colonial Legislature imposes a fixed duty of 5/s per head per annum, great or small.

From this you will infer that my first opinion is, conditionally, a good one.

My second is not less so, especially for the building trade. I have in my own mind estimated that in the course of the next quarter of a century or a little more, nearly the whole of Auckland will have to be rebuilt twice - Time has already made great inroads into the stability of original Auckland, now about 17 years old, and with the major part of it there will be great difficulty in attaining to majority. Another class of more substantial brick built dwellings are very sparcely making

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their appearance, which I don’t think will be fashionable for more than the time mentioned, then it will be, when Gold Digging has become a settled pursuit that, with the wave of the enchanted wand, the whole will be swept away and a more elevated and chaste style of Street Architecture be adopted to meet the tastes and wants of a large, wealthy, mercantile community.

As an example, take Melbourne, containing a population of over a half million, with some of the most costly and elegant buildings both Public and Private as any in the world, and when looking at the time, and the source from whence it all sprung, one is forced to the conclusion that there can be no tangible reason why another place (all things being equal) shall not make

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the same rapid progress in population, industry and wealth as that, seeing that the same indomitable “Anglo Saxon” spirit of perseverance and enterprise would be in operation.

These are the principal sources from which Auckland will derive for many years to come its trade, commerce and prosperity.

At present the Provincial Government is anything but satisfactory, its acts, measures and mode of procedure is highly offensive to the respectable and intelligent portion of the community; the result of Universal Suffrage here has been to place the present Superintendent in office, who is utterly unfit for his situation.

The majority of the electors who voted for him, in opposition to the sense of the Town, where principally the low, vulgar and unthinking section, which a glass of grog would buy any

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time, this is a fact for the advocates of Universal Suffrage at home to consider and ponder over.

Judging from what we read and hear the existing state of affairs cannot be of much longer duration, for the Government Machine has become so sickly and clogged that it must stop to be repaired and purged, ere its wheels can be made to move beneficially and satisfactorily to all classes.

I have had the pleasure of a conversation with Capt. Daldy, a Merchant here, as Deacon of Mr. Hamer’s, and a member of the Legislative Assembly, also a brother to Daldy of the firm of “Bell and Daldy”, Publishers and Stationers in Fleet Street. He is a kind, good and amiable gentleman and one of the oldest colonists in Auckland. From his long experience of the country and the natives, he is in a position to speak

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with certainty with regard to New Zealand generally. He told me on no account would he return to live in England again, the Colonies being more preferable for an individual to make progress in life.

I was much interested by an anecdote he related to me of the natives, when met in solemn conclave to discuss the propriety of expelling every white man from the country. The meeting took place at the Bay of Islands a few years since, and was first addressed by a young Chief, dressed in the costume of a European and smoking a pipe. He commenced his harangue by enforcing the necessity of adopting the measure, and then stating the reasons for so doing in the most clear and perspicuous manner.

First, the degradation they were subject to from loss of

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Territory, although sold and paid for.

2nd, the introduction into the country of diseases unknown to them, especially Small Pox,

3rd, the treatment they had received from the Government, in that they are not allowed to purchase Gunpowder, Fire arms, Spirituous liquors, Ale or Beer in an open manner, but on the contrary were treated more as children in these matters than as full grown and very acute adults.

He concluded his peripatetic speech by moving that – all the white men be put on board their large canoes, with tall masts and sails and sent from whence they came without delay. After a pause, during which the strictest silence was observed, as is the case in all their meetings and which might be copied with advantage, to more highly civilized communities, when considering questions of great importance, an Old Chief rose, and was received by the

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assembled multitude with the most profound respect and reverence. He commenced walking slowly backward and forward with a most dignified air and carriage (all their speeches are delivered walking, accompanied with a large amount of gesticulation, fervour and spirit) and turning to where the first speaker was seated on the ground, addressed him in nearly the following manner –

What is this? - putting his hand on the Pipe – throw it away, and this – touching his coat – take it off, and those things – feeling his trousers – throw them away also; that’s a nice red shirt you have on – take it off – and now put on this home made Flax cloak and be a New Zealander. Our brother is very wise, very wise, very wise, but he forgets that when we have sent all the white people away, the large canoes will

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bring them back again, accompanied by Large, Large Canoes, which say, Boom, Bang, Bang, Bang – Such is the short and effective style adopted in all their great discussions.

The more very similar, and having the same object in view –

There is a Tribe inhabiting a fine country about 20 or 40 miles from here, their name unpronounceable, they convened a meeting a short time since of their country men for the avow ed purpose of driving away all the whites and burning their homes, property and towns – as in the former case, the meeting was addressed by a very warlike Chief, and one that has caused a great deal of anxiety to the Colonial Government. By recommending to them the advisability and propriety of the measure, he resumed his seat, and after the usual solemn pause, another Chief rose

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and said, our brother is wise, great, and powerful, he then commenced blowing out the lights (the meeting was held by Candle Light) and having done so, he again said, now you will all think that by blowing out the lights I have been guilty of a very foolish action for by so doing we are in a state of darkness, I know it is a foolish action for we cant’ get on with our business until they are lighted again –

You will see they are not deficient in apt simile and most effective illustration, they never indulge in loquacity but come to the point at once, a most desirable system in all national affairs, it would, no doubt, be attended with great success and dispatch, where the same plan pursued by those who are in the habit of meeting and talking within the walls.

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St Stephen’s. – I have given the foregoing with the view of showing what the native feeling really is toward us. In my opinion there is not the slightest ground for alarm, as some would have us beleive, as to the ultimate struggle which must sooner or later take place between the “Anglo Saxon” and the “Maori” for the mastery of New Zealand. Should such a crisis ever take place, there can be no question as to who would be the sovereign rulers, but it would be purchased at an immense sacrofice of human life. The Maories possess large stores of ammunition and fire arms, in their native “Pah’s” or villages, and are very brave and resolute to which may be added they are the best marksmen in the world –

They only smile at our soldiery and say, “one Maorie beat three Red Coats”, in warfare

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they adopt the Guerilla system like the Kaffirs at the Cape Colony, which to our Troops is most harassing and destructive. It provokes their mirth to see a line of men drawn up in battle array, for this reason, that in real conflict it is better to fire at a good Many than a single one.

From what I have heard during my short residence here, the Colonial Government are much to blame for the Policy they pursue toward them, playing fast and loose, one session they pat them on the head, the next give them a thrashing. In my opinion the better way would be to expunge from the Statute Book all those prohibitory laws, relating to articles beforementioned, for in reality they are void and inoperative, and accord to them all the privileges and immunities, which as British subjects they are by right

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entitled to. For it is by letting our fellow man feel the responsibility of his being one in the social community, that you will secure his obedience to the laws made for its governance and protection, and make him very careful not to commit an infringement of the same, for by so doing he would inevitably have to pay the penalty. It might be urged, that a race scarcely one remove from savages are not sufficiently educated or intelligent to be intrusted with the rights of citizenship and civilization, “save the mark, such a doctrine might be held toward some races in the world, certainly not to the aborigines of New Zealand, than whom a more acute, and naturally quick, and highly intelligent section of the human family does not exist. Their argument in this respect is indefensible ”you claim to be (in a sense) and we acknowledge it, we that we as a people, are your subjects,

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and that our Island belongs to the Colonial Empire of Great Britian, such being the case, on what ground do you deny us the rights you enjoy? –

The result of such legislation is to make them proud, arrogant, and independent, and occasionally very troublesome, preventing their amalgamating more thoroughly with those they respect in their hearts. In the midst of all this there is a striking peculiarity belonging to them, their opposition when offered, is only to the Government, not to individuals, were they at war with the English Government, an Englishman, might travel from one end of the Island to the other unmolested, on the contrary he would be helped, cared for, and treated kindly – From what has been said you will infer that a more wise and liberal policy ought to be adopted toward our coloured

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fellow subjects, and my opinion is the sooner it is done the better for all. My next opinion is not wholly confined to the future, but is connected with the present, it is as affecting the progress of the Province, this said at home, “why the upset price of Land is only 10/s per acre, so that a person can have a farm of two hundred acres for one hundred pounds, that is strictly true, but then a person in search for an estate of that acreage for that sum of money, must go where it is, I will give a few extracts from the Public Notification published in the “Southern Cross”, under the hand and seal of John Williamson, Superintendent of the Province of Auckland.

“Under and in pursuance of the powers vested in the Superintendent in that behalf by the Regulations for the sale, letting, disposal,

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and occupation of Waste Lands of the Crown within the Province of Auckland, in the Colony of New Zealand, issued by his Excellency the Governor of the said Colony with the advice of the Executive Council thereof, on the fourteenth day of the month of May in the year 1856, I do hereby appoint, and do notify the same for general information, that the following allotments of the said Waste Lands shall be offered to sale by Public Auction, by the Waste Lands’ Commissioner for the said Province, at the upset prices placed opposite thereto respectively, at the Mechanics’ Institute, on Monday, the tenth day of August, commencing at the hour of eleven o’clock in the forenoon, subject to the several terms and conditions of sale in that behalf contained in the Regulations aforesaid.”

Then follows the List, consisting of seven Lots

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in the Parish of Waitemata, upset price 10/s per acre.
Parish of Titirangi, five Lots 10/s –
Parish of Paremoremo three Lots 10/s –
Parish of Maungakaramea forty seven Lots 10/s per acre –
Village of Howick, seventeen Lots, upset price £5 an acre – Village of Mahurangi, thirty six Lots £5 an acre
Village of Marsden, twenty nine Lots £5 an acre –
Whairagaroa Village, ninety one Lots £5 per acre –

The above quotations are the upset prices of the Government, which shews that land of every description, in every locality is not confined to 10/s an acre, as it is understood to be in England, and it is not an unsual thing at those sales for competition to run

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so high as to double, in some instances, the upset, or Government price. To speculate in Land is a very critical business, requiring large capital, so as to enable a person to buy, and then hold on until a favourable opportunity occurs to sell again.

It would never pay to buy, and cultivate land so as to enhance its market value, the price of Labour being so high, and the demand so very fluctuating, for estates and produce. As a sample take the case of a carpenter I know well, he came here three years ago, from the Victoria Diggings, with something like eight hundred pounds, at that time there was Mania prevailing for buying Land, every one was becoming “bona fide” Landowners, in the same way that every one was becoming Railway Shareholders in England a few years since, he was one among the rest attacked

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with it, and bought some eighty acres of good Land at the Tamika, and cropped the whole with Grain and Potatoes, from the latter he derived a very handsome profit, arising from the great demand for that article in the Australian Colonies, the price at the time being almost a fabulous one-

As a matter of course, every one was planting largely with Potatoes the following year, but ere’ the time arrived for gathering, the price had fallen so low as £2 per ton which did not paying scarcely for taking out of the ground, I think the price per ton the year before was, I believe, from 20 to 30 pounds per ton.

Hundreds of Tons were brought into Auckland that year, for which there was no sale, and were left to rot on the wharves and quays. My acquaintance was one who suffered severely

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insomuch, that he left farming, came into Town and again took to his trade the whole of his capital he invested in the purchase and subsequent cultivation which at the present time does not return him a farthing, he would now be very glad to sell it, but then a great sacrafice would be the consequence.

There is Mr Francis again, who at the time referred to was similarly afflicted, he purchased eighty acres on the banks of the Waitemata, and there it is still, I its original state of barreness and sterility. His money laying idle which might be now employed with great advantage in other ways.

There are a great number of others who have committed the same error, and as a matter of course suffering the same inconvenience. The time may come when a different state of

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things will exist and they reap the advantage – it is through this system of Land Jobbing that such large fortunes have been made, or could be made, - land in and about Auckland which might a few years ago have been purchased for about 10/s a foot could not now be bought for as many pounds. There is a piece of ground next to Mr Forsaith’s establishment in Queen St, and which I beleive belongs to him, the price of which per foot, is, I have been informed,only £26. Further to show the extent of speculation in land, there is a large extent of ground at present covered by the Sea in the immediate vicinity of the Pier and the lower end of the Town, which has been purchased for a long time past, It must be many years ere’ the proprietor will derive the return he anticipates from his watery, muddy bargain –

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Before closing what I have to say on the Land Question, it would be well to remark that you can obtain any quantity almost, in what locality you like best, but then you must pay the price demanded-

Also, the Land sold at 10/s per acre is situated not within the radius of 12 miles from Auckland, it is in the “Bush” or primeval Forest, which has to cleared broken up, drained, and cultivated. Shut out from every sign of European life except an occasional visit to Town about twice in the course of a year, for the sale of what you have to sell and the purchasing of what you may require for the remainder. The “Maories” your only neighbours and companions, but from those there is nothing to fear, being perfectly harmless, obliging, Kind and true –

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As I have said so much about this City and New Zealand generally, it would not be considered satisfactory where I to omit saying a few words as to who should come here, and who should remain at home. Mechanics, Artisans, and Labourers are the people who are most wanted, not but that the Middle class would be beneficial, but then to be so they must bring capital so as to be enabled to commence business with or the chances for some time would be against them – Men with say, four or five hundred pounds could do well, they need not be tied down to their own particular business did they see any other more lucrative and advantageous. Men who profess to cure Smoky Chimnies would here find “their occupation gone” those are a class of men I should say to come out to New Zealand by all Means

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but in lieu of Tine Pots, Long Ladders, Bricks and Mortar, bring all the money, and as many children as you can, females are invaluable, I cannot resist the temptation to tell you what women are thought of and whow they are snapped up to be made into wives. – A gentleman in a large way of business here had for a long time been subject to great inconvenience from his inability to keep a female domestic servant some little time since he visited Scotland and during his sojourn in the land of Heather, bethought himself of the propriety of taking out with him on his return, a female servant one he would be likely to retain in his service he accordingly looked about for one not of prepossessing appearance and after due consideration he arranged with one, the fac simile of “Maria the

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person you had at Skinner St during the Exhibition, they in due time set sail and ultimately arrived here, the gentleman well pleased to think he was possessed of one who would cook his Beef and boil his Tatoes” so long as he should want such services performed, and who was also in his opinion invulnerable to all such silly things as Cupid’s shafts, should ever such an unlikely contingency occur, but in this case as in many others he had reckoned without his host, for behold one fine morning Maria, respectfully hinted the probability of having to leave his service at the end of the month in order to become the wife of one who had wooed and won her own dear Self Maria - This is only a sample of what can be done with anything in the shape of womankind, a cargo of respectable

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young women would at the present time Sept. 14th, 1857 be a real boon. I have had several conversations with young men highly respectable and they all with one voice deplore the privation they are subject to in this respect – But to resume I may say that every industrious man of whatever trade would succeed in time, every one has difficulties to surmount at first but of course Carpenters, Blacksmiths, Millwrights, Painters, Sawyers, Farm Servants, & Shoemakers will always command a ready market. The class of persons not wanted at present are Clerks and those who get their living at home by writing unless they come out to follow some other profession or have an engagement before leaving England –

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I must not be understood to say that the soil of New Zealand is not suited to the latter class of people, it is suited to every one who can readily adapt themselves to circumstances, this is the great secret of success in all our Austral colonies - If you cannot get a situation suitable to your taste and habits, take pro.tem anything in order to prevent your falling into the rear, all the old world views and feelings must be secondary, it would be impracticable to attempt to carry them out here, I will take as samples of those who must do well here, My own brother wife and family, his children instead of being an hindrance would positively be converted into a progressive fortune, or Wm Tucker his wife and family, I sincerely wish they were all here now there is no

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fear for the result, to encourage them and others similarly situated there is no reason why they should not instantly become master builders as the whole of the work in our trade is done by tender through the medium of the Press, there is nothing here like an Architect in London inviting a few Men to give in for a job to the exclusion of all others in the neighbourhood a House to build, as soon as the printers have done with it becomes public property. There is one great drawback to a single individual’s success that is he has only one pair of hands, what I want now is another one or two like myself to form a partnership, each to have an equal share of work and the profits or losses as the case may be, when men tender for work they have to consider whether or not when

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the job is about half finished all his hands will leave his employ for the Gold Diggings and let him do the best he can, prehaps a penalty of five pounds a week hanging over his head should not the work be completed in the time specified – It is to obviate such a state of things that two or three industrious steady men should combine, they might work wonders in Auckland, there is another thing in connection with the working men here, to attempt to drive is to drive them away altogether, so that a person taking work is entirely in the hands of the operative – In fact the men who work with their hands are the real masters – In addition I will say a few words as to what is necessary to be done by those who have made up their minds to come to New Zealand to ensure as much comfort as their means

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will admit on the voyage – In the first place, I will say to all come in the Cabin if you can, as the extra money over a second or third class fare is amply repaid in the comforts and immunities you are entitled to, there is an amount of discomfort in the second and third which almost becomes insupportable long before the voyage terminates, arising mainly from the various minds and temperaments you are compelled to be in close union with, I cannot say as others have done, dont’ bring anything in the shape of domestic furniture, on the contrary bring all you can within the limits of your allowance, especially Crockeryware, Glass and those things that go into small space, every one that is a New Comer feels the prices of such things here to be most extortionate, how would you like to give 5/d for a common blue Pie Plate of a shape partaking of the square, round

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and oval, for comfort on the voyage you want clothing suitable to very hot and very cold weather, a good supply of under clothing is a great comfort, but for men I would recommend colored shirts which are cheap and do not show stains or dirt so readily as white, as the first change you make onboard has to kept dirty until the end of the voyage, the best description of shirts for longer sea voyages are those made of Colored Flannel those you can wear three weeks or more if you like, it is a very mistaken notion to suppose you can wash anything of importance, for where is the water to come from, some will say in a moment, there is a plenty of water in the ocean, and marine soap to match, to such I would say that it is more pleasant and comfortable to put on a dirty shirt than one that has been washed in salt water and dried in the rigging

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let your eating and drinking utensils be of Tin or Enamelled Iron, with a Canister or two to keep your weekly supply of Tea and Sugar in also a stone Bottle or two for Pickles, Lime Juice &etc; and a few little simple things which will readily suggest themselves to those who have been accustomed to the little decencies of the breakfast, dinner or tea table, to suppose you can do much in the shape of reading writing or study during the voyage is a most fallacious idea there is always something to attract the attention of a landsman at sea, should it come on to blow great guns dont’ be afraid, provided you have confidence in the Ship commander officers and crew, be assured all will be done to ensure the safety of all and everything – Finally do not

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think for a moment that you are coming to New Zealand as it was in Captn Cook’s time, on the contrary you are coming to a provincial English town and when here you will find it impossible to realize the idea that you are 16000 miles from England –

I have availed myself of the opportunity of sending this by George Curtis who left here at a moments notice or perhaps I should have written more ere you receive this I suppose you will have heard from us.

We hope and trust you are all well – God Bless, Keep and Preserve you all - Amen, Amen.

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Karangahape Road
Auckland
New Zealand
23 Dec 1859

My very dear Brother,
The mail arrived some 10 days ago, and not a single line from any of our dear friends at home did we receive by it, we were sorely disappointed and should have given expression to it in rather strong terms had time permitted -

The Stamer came in on Friday and left on Monday, so we had not time commit our thoughts and feelings to paper. We are not so well off as you are in regard to postal accommodation, with you it is not

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as with us, you have only to walk to the door and drop your epistle into the box. With us the case is very widely different in having to walk some considerable distance and within certain hours, perhaps in a gale of wind and rain, so that we have more chance of losing the Mail than you, but in order to guard against such a contingency in the departure of such.

I have taken time by the forelock in commencing to write some fortnight beforehand - Dear father's last letter to you will have informed you of our visit to his Farm at “Te Iha Anunganuie“ leaving me to give you the details of our family - Well we left home in company of Mr Thornton and Mr Woodham & Mr Hopkins, the latter Gentleman recently arrived here, he knows you very well having met you at a Teu Meeting somewhere in the environs of London, but at this moment I forget the

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locality, I think it was at an Anniversary somewhere about Islington -He has been presiding for some time at Weston Super Mare, prior to his leaving England-
To resume Mother and Emma made us each a haversack fitted with proper bands to be fastened to the back in regular knapsack style and in which was placed 10 lbs of biscuits, 1 loaf 4 lbs cheese a knuckle of ham with sundry other items in the shape of tobacco and pipes, soaps, towels comb, stockings, matches, hook prob, tin pannikins, tea, coffee, sugar two bottles of spirits, also a blanket each - Thus equipped we left home at two o'clock PM and about 4 o'clock took our final departure from the Queen St Wharf in the good ship “Flora“ whereof for that voyage McKensie was Master bound for “Manganuie“ some 53 miles distant. The wind was favourable for the

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prosecution of our voyage, so far as the “North Head“ distant some 31/2miles and which we sounded at about 7 PM by this time the night air was getting cold and keen and we thought some tea would help to warm us and keep our spirits up. Accordingly the Skipper ordered “Sandy“ who by the bye filled the office of Chief Mate, Cook and Cabin boy, to light a fire and boil the kettle.

I was much amused, and also very much puzzled to ascertain how that feat was to be accomplished, as not even the shadow of a “Galley“ was to be seen on deck, the only indications that such things as tea or coffee was made use of on board were a few half pint mugs scattered about in various places with the dregs of coffee adhering to the outside, I thought at the time the most difficult problem in “Euclid“ would have been as easy a solution, as to how “Sandy“ was to boil

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the kettle and make tea - However in the fullness of time “Sandy“ began to solve what to all of us appeared to be a perfect enigma by giving two or three good yawns and broad grins at our incredulity, and then walking" “fored“ to the windlap and from amongst the chains and rubbish there located he fished up a tea kettle after it saw the mark “The Galley“ I need not tell you how intently all eyes were directed to windlap and that when the latter approaching made its appearance a loud laugh burst forth from all save the Skipper, to describe it will not be difficult, it consisted of one of Esobanks nail cans with a hole cut in the side near the bottom for a draught, this can was mounted on the windlass and some pieces of wood put into it and set fire to, the kettle, full of water being put first into it at the upper end, for a pair of bellows “Sandy“ was indebted to a good pair of lungs and a very capacious mouth in about a half an hour all our unbelief as to one being able

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to have tea was removed, by our being summoned to surround the, not the table, but the flap in the saloon to partake of the cup which cheers but not inebriates - The apartment into which we descended was as per diagram in the margin. After taking tea and some bread and butter we again went on deck, by this time it had become a dead calm, with a thick mist through which the rays Cynthia could not penetrate, the night wore away most uncomfortably and when light dawned it revealed the discouraging fact, that we had made scarce any headway during the night, about 5am Sandy repeated the process with the “Nail Can“ and we had some hot coffee and red herrings with the usual “etceteras“ the calm still continued not a breath of air stirring until the latter part of the afternoon when it freshened a little and enabled us to make “Whangaprou“ about a 9 PM by this time Mr Thornton had become very uneasy as to the probability of his being home again by

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Saturday night, as he had to inform the death of one of our number a Mrs Bip on Sabbath morning - After a consultation it was thought advisable for him to return in order to prevent disappointment - The mist had cleared away the wind had increased to half a gale dead against us, the moon shone out clear and bright revealing to us a sail bearing down on us, it proved to be the Raun, bound for Auckland, we launched out our punt and at the risk of their lives Mr Thornton and Mr Hopkins got into it and under the guidance of Skipper shoved off and happily reached the Raun in safety - after their departure we stood on and off for some time but to no purpose, and we droped anchor 10PM. Sandy and Mailcan were again in requisition and we all did the best we could to get a little sleep. - About 2am Wednesday I woke up and soon went on deck and found that our old Soup Chest was again under way and forging a long at the rate of about 14 miles in 15 hours the wind being strong, but dead ahead - As the day

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advanced, it died away and we were again becalmed, the tide however drifted us onto the “Great Omaha“. About 5 PM we dodged about untill the night came on and a slight slant of wind in our favour springing up we made the “Little Omaha“ about midnight, when it became dead ahead and we ran into the bay and dropped anchor - On Thursday morning still unfavourable we went on shore, and had a Koseros with the Moaries living there and strolled about in the bush nearly all day, and at night went on board with the determination of walking the remainder of the journey on the following morning should it prove likely, that our old tub could not set sail -
However on Friday morning it came to rain heavily and we had to console each other as we could in the course of the morning the wind shifted in our favour and we lifted the anchor in the fond hope of not dropping it again until we had arrived at our destination - In a fit of

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reaction I laid hold of the “tiller“ the rest helping to hoist the canvas and away we went out around the point and some little way across the next bay, where it again shifted dead ahead, and driving us onto the rocks and breakers, surrounding Cape Rodney - the skipper [indecipherable] the sweeps and pulled away for dear life, at last we got the head of our old tub to seaward and pulled her by dint of strength out of the most imminent danger back to her old anchorage - I cannot permit myself to write, the Anathemas, suffered and unexpected by the Captain, Mate and our fellow passengers, suffice it to say the good ship “Flora“ would have been lost in less time than I have taken to write this sentence - After letting go the anchor Mr Hordham and myself went on shore again for the purpose of bartering with the natives subjects of his chieftanship “Kiri“ we had a lot of fish and wanted some of their potatoes but it proved a failure, the murphies were not good. While we were persevering with them a messenger came from the ship

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to say that we were again about to try our luck , in a few minutes we were again on board and under way - I took the helm and this time we managed by dint of whistling in true sailor style to clear Cape Rodney about 2PM - The wind was favourable in fits and starts and we forged along pretty well passing “Pakeri“ and ultimately making “BreamPail“ near which is the entrance of “Munguioria“ River about 10PM the anchor was again dropped for the night as the tide was on the ebb and the approach to the river was difficult and dangerous from the tremendous sea caused by the heavy north East winds which had been blowing for some days, breaking on the bar at its mouth I cannot describe to you the terror and alarm that seized me after the anchor was let go all hands but myself went below and were soon in the arms of Morpheus - I felt there was danger and in truth there was, we were lying at the mouth of a river out of which the tide was

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rushing with immense force, and the heavy rolling sea coming in to meet it and breaking on the Bar with a thundering sound, Every moment I expected to see our cable [indecipherable] and our old Soup Chest dashed on the rocks- Providence was over us and no such fatality occurred, I watched until day light and then worn out in mind and body, I went below, and fell asleep I was awoke up by hearing father say well now its all right I rushed up on deck and thankful was I to find we were over the Bar and into smooth water in the River - It was a delightful morning, and the tide carried us to “:Mangunua“ which place was reached on Saturday morning about 8 AM. We were soon ashore, and at the house of one of our fellow passengers, a Mr Insley who keeps a store and deal with the natives - We performed what had become absolutely necessary a good wash with soap and water, after which we sat down to a good breakfast of pork and potatoes and then made the required preparations for our journey to Te, Iha, Aranganui - distant according to Bush computation about 9 miles - Fortunately for us there was a party of natives gum diggers going in that

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direction, and we joined them, you would have smiled to see the Cortege start, one of the most motley and strange you can think of - Macones of both sexes and of all ages from the infant from puking to mulling in its Mother's arms or more properly speaking on her back to the old hoary head of feminine ugliness, with the “pussy cat“ round her neck, dressed in every variety of costume to no costume at all, armed with their gum searchers, a slight tough rod about 6 feet long, with an iron point with which they probe the ground for the gum, exactly in the same way the London Sentons search for a coffin, Kits made of flax, containing things too numerous to mention, strings of dried “Pepys“ or cockles, guns and lastly, a small host of half starved hungry looking dogs - The whites consisted of father, myself, Mr Woodham and a long lanky specimen “fraeworth“- We pursued our journey along the bank of the River, over a rich alluvial flat, some 4 or 5 thousand acres in extent, with a view of

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heading N, but the Muorie was too wide awake for the “Pakeha“ they said we must cross here, over a bridge constructed of two ruff poles about 12 feet long with about 7 feet water underneath, offcourse we must undress and in doing so endured the jibes and jeers of our dusky companions- Through the medium of our dragman Mr Woodham we made arrangements to be carried over, seriatim “picky-back“, the Muoris all crossed over and then our dragoman followed, he was handed allright and in order was Sandy, then father, and I was left for the last being considered a heavy weight.
No small degree of merriment caused when I mounted the back of our “Hercules“, some two big ones together I thought when about halfway across the poles were bending and twisting under the weight what if he should make a spill of me!! but in the midst of the laughter and joking going on at our expense he landed me safe on the other side. There we had a “Koreroo“ and found them one sixpence for each of our rides - I was in good form with them

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the reason being I was a great big “Pahkeha“, bulk and stature with them is the sure indication of greatness sovereignty - After lighting our pipes we resumed our journey, the old woman kept teasing me by showing her empty pipe which I was requested to fill, we walked on some miles together and then we parted on the top of the ranges, one of the natives offering to go with us the whole distance which we declined - Right before us in the valley and on the other side of a dense piece of light Bush was a beautiful green patch and a “Wharrie“ or dwelling , in a short time we came to it it was the first allotment in the Te Iha Arangunui Block, two brothers named Shiart with their wives and families Nove Scotians lived here, only one of the wives was at home she very kindly invited us to stop and take some refreshment. She was much pleased to see a white face, we were feeling rather tired and gladly accepted her offer, she put on the pot and then took down

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a piece of Wild Pig and put on the kettle during the preparation of the repast, we walked around the clearing it was very pleasing and interesting, to see the progress made in the short space about five months, they had some 4 acres of wheat growing, potatoes and vegetables, growing. The timber being felled and sawn to build their house, the poultry cackling about the premises and the skin of the pig hanging up to dry to be turned to some Acct; a future day, we returned and partook of the wild pig, bye the bye it was precious tough and some tea after which we resumed our journey and by dint of perserverence we reached the promised land about 5PM. My dear Brother if you should ever stand in need of an illustration of Chaos come up to New Zealand and walk from Mangawai to Pe Iha Arungunui. About a quarter of a mile before coming to father's estate there lives an old Man obese Scotchman named McDonald all alone in a blessed state of batchelorhood, into his throng our lank friend Sandy hastened first in the hope as we thought of securing for himself a nights lodging to our exclusion. Old McDonald came out and put Sandy on the track

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for his allotment, then he came and pointed out what we were in search of, there it was right before us, a fine beautiful piece of land of 80 Acres in extent, our Cicerone could not stay long with us as he had been and still was very unwell, we then asked us if he would give us a shelter for the night, as we did not like much to sleep in the Bush, he said we were welcome to the accommodation his hut would afford and so we returned with him. The old chap made up the fire and put on the Kettle and while it was advancing to the boiling point, related to us some of his travels and winding up by saying he had nothing to offer us to eat we replied that we had brought supplies with us and would be glad to invite him to take tea with us, which I was sure was very acceptable to him - You can have no idea what sort of a place we were in for the night but I will endeavour to describe it - The walls were built of small rods, tied together with flax and then small bundles of Naufu, lashed to them

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with the same material, the roof constructed in the same manner, and with the same materials, in one corner was the fireplace, in another a very good bedstead and in the centre a round pillar Claw table with three four legged stools of course anything was better than sleeping in the open air, although we were only one remove from it inside, after the repast we made the best we could of the resources at our disposal for sleeping the night. It was arranged that as Mr Williams was ill and father was oldest that they should occupy the bed with Mr McDonald leaving myself and Sandy to shift for ourselves, with the aid of two stools and a box I made an impromptu bedstead, the iron lid of the Camp Oven serving for a pillow, lying down with my feet to the fire, I soon fell asleep and continued to do so until 2 oclock in the morning when the wind whistling through our house woke me up. I thought well, this is a most miserable place, so taking courage I kneeled down and with my mouth blew the embers into a flame, and then put on the kettle to make some tea, which when made

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I served out to the rest of the company - I was much amused by Father asking me if the door was shut such a door you never did see, a sheep's hurdle was wind proof compared to it - At last I fell asleep again and I slept till 4.30 AM My companions were up before me and had the pleasure of hearing the most delightful music from the feathered songsters in the adjoining Bush such as we never heard before - At 5.30 AM on Sunday morning I got up and had a consultation with father as to the propriety of going to explore the boundary of his allotment - He thought as we had come for the purpose we must submit to circumstances , so we started with Sandy in company Mr Woodham remaining behind being too ill to go with us - Arrived at the nearest boundary of father's place walked down, and in the middle of it saw a most beautiful fresh water river - a regular home like one, its bed of limestone rugged and broken and the water rushing over it

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in a series of small waterfalls - just below where we stood was a large pond oval in form about 50 ft by 30 we crossed it without wetting our feet and then walked in the “Surveyor's Line“ through a dense undergrowth of ferns and scrub the other and more lofty being “Pe Pree“ some 20 ft high - I measured one fern leaf it was elven feet long - The sun by this time high up in the heavens and sending his burning rays down apon us, and the “Line“ being lost we decided it prudent to return, the land was of first rate quality Volcanic - Before leaving home we were requested by Mrs Williams to look at an allotment for her, and report thereon, so we started again at the further boundary of father's and walked some 2 miles till we could go no further with safety, it is a very hazardous enterprise to explore the Bush, once lose the “Surveyor's Line “ and the chances are a thousand to one you never come out again, hundreds of lives have been lost in this way - as the day was fast drawing on, we turned our heads homeward and reached Mr

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McDonald's about 1PM -
I may here say that father was well pleased with his selection, it being a fine piece of land, the soil Is rich and deep and can be cleared at a small expense, there being only about 5 [indecipherable] large trees on it. I should think 30 [indecipherable] could be cleared and laid down in grass for 15 pound. Its situation is about NW from Auckland and is between the two- I was on the East and West Coasts; there is the “Riwake River“ which joins it to the West Coastat “Kaipaire“ navigable for a boat of ten tons right into the middle of it, The accompanying Tracing will show you its true position - To resume, after partaking of some refreshments we prepared to return to Mangawai. There is a South Cst the Whole distance and only requires two small

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Bridges to make it available for horses to travel on. Since our return home the Bridges have been commissioned and by this time are nearly complete
When about half way we lost our track and got into a swamp but after all we got out pretty well and found we had cut off a corner - When about a mile from our last leg, it being in sight we again lost the road and found ourselves wading through swamps, Night was fast closing upon us and what to do we scarsely knew. Father was the leader- he being the best traveller - and was so from the commencement, so he decided to retrace our steps back to the R[indecipherable] and then “Ko, Hoi', Mr Woodham and I joined together and such a “Ko, Hoi“ as was then produced from our united voices was never heard before in that locality - The [indecipherable]

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rang again, waking up those past primeval solitudes with the doves berating echo of our most anxious “Ko Hoi“,.
In a short time we heard dogs barked the reciprocating “Ko, Hoi“ of the Maories. Night had now closed apon us and we were very anxious to get home to our lodging, at last we thought we heard the stealthy step of the Native coming towards us through the scrub, in a few minutes the form of an old man with his blanket wrap'd round him, he conducted us down to the river we crossed picky back the morning before , where there were half dozen “Mouries“ and a wide bridge cross. We were thoroughly sick and tired, it was quite dark, and we had to cross the large alluvial flat - I have before mentioned - We therefore asked the old man to come with us, we offered 4s/ to walk about a mile

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we failed to induce him to do so, as the Maori race are very superstitious and are afraid to move about after dark because of the spirits - There was no help for us, but to try our luck so away we went, we had not gone far before we had lost the track and then to find it again, and so on finding and losing for some hours up to our knees in bog, mud and water , We should have been compelled to stop the night there had not a native stopped and answered our ““Ko Hoi“ and brought us into the track again, in a few minutes more we were housed, and right glad we were - We each had a glass of brandy and water , washed our feet, partook of a good supper and went to bed to bury our cares and troubles in oblivion - We slept soundly till eight next morning, got up and breakfasted and afterwards went up the rive rin a boat to visit a “Swiss“ settled there - We were highly gratified, and what we heard and saw was the very thing to make one thoroughly enamoured with Bush Life in New Zealand - I must in justice to father say

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that in this trip he distinguished himself by making one to row up and back again - In short every one who knows him says that he is a most extraordinary man, that he would beat hollow nine tenths of the young fellows who come out here - our ship the “Flora“ was at this time taking in a Cargo of “Mauri Gum“ about 24 tons which occupied the time until Tuesday when we expected to leave, and we were most anxious to get home again to allay the fears of our dear friends at home and to get a change of linen, but a foul wind set in which detained us until Thursday noon when we left Mr Insleys in a boat to go on board, the rain coming down in torrents, expecting to go over the Bar that morning tide, but we were obliged to drop anchor just inside until the morning (Friday) the early part of which day we spent on shore eating roasted oysters - However about 2 PM we were again under weigh and at last got over the Bar, and out to sea with

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a pretty fair wind, about midnight when off Cape Rodney it blew half a gale and dead ahead we were knocking about all night until 4 Saturday morning when we ran in under the “Kawau“ and let go the anchor, here caught about a hundred weight of fine fish “Snapper“ in about half an hour we had some for breakfast and about ten got underway again all hands desperate , it appeared an age since we left home. We were knocking about the whole of the day until dark when we again gave it up for a hard job and ran in the other side of the “Kawau“ from where we left in the morning - a distance about 10 miles at most & we were right glad to be in smooth water, for we were thoroughly worn out in mind and body, having eaten all our stores
That night father and I slept in a place 6 ft by 2 ft head and tail fashion soundly - In the morning about 5 we turned out, took the Punt and went in search of a breakfast - I must say

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the “Kawau“ is an Island of about 25 miles in circumference it belongs to a Company in England who bought it for the purpose of Copper Mining - Thousands of pounds have been spent therein setting it to work, but it did not pay and has been abandoned for some years - It was painful to look at the wreck of Steam Engines, Shafts, water wheels, houses, shops Wharves and all the things belong; to it, we stood moralising on the ruin hopes it had once inspired in the minds of many in the Old country - our party consisted of four one of which knew where to steer for the homestead after many good scratches we arrived at another side and here we found what we were in search of - We were treated to a first rate breakfast of Ham and Eggs tea and bread after which we started back to the ship during our absence a little fair wind had begun to blow, and the sails

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were being hoisted, we were soon on board, and were once more on the road for home, but our old “Tub“ would not sail and Sunday evening we were still at sea running into “Mulalupe papuge“ - Monday morning dawned and Auckland in sight distant about 10 miles - I need not say how thoroughly disgusted everyone was with our “Skipper“ - when told we should not be home till night - I went below and tried to sleep, leaving the old “Tub“ to forge along to my great joy found ourselves poking under the stern of HMS Niger, two more tacks and then under the stern of Mermaid Liverpool ship and then cheer boys cheer, down goes the anchor alongside the Queen St Wharf - We soon packed up our traps and were on the road home, through all the back streets, fearing lest we should incite the suspicions of the Police - on our way home we met a friend who told us a report had been going about that we were lost but he

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was glad to find it was untrue, We got home about 12.30 hungry, dirty, rugged and lousy!! having been absent just a fortnight - I need not describe the joy , we all felt at seeing each others faces again - after a thorough ablution in which I was assisted by Mother I went to bed and then, and then, and then I went to sleep!!!! -

                            Certificate
I, John March, late of 20 Clarence Road Kentish town London England and now of Karangahape Road Auckland New Zealand, do by these presents certify that the detailed account of a journey from Auckland to Mangawai formed in the good ship “Flora“ is strictly true and faithful in every particular -
As witness my hand this 21st day of December in the yeqr of our Lord one thousand and eight hundred & fifty nine
                                                    Signed John Marsh
Witness- Emma Marsh Herapath

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Water on Board H Katherine Dock, 10182 Gals,
Draft of Water17H 1in Forward
 _ _ _ _ _ _ 17 “ Aft
Water taken in at Plymouth to make up for Leakage down Channel between 5 and 6 Tons

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Transcribed by Rosemary Cox, Jan Bransgrove